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-   -   disable DRL? (https://forum.mazda6club.com/canada/171002-disable-drl.html)

WHITEonBLACK 07-18-2006 11:51 PM

Hello, just got mazda6 couple days ago, will put on HID soon, but i need to disable DRL first, i did some search, they seems rather complicated, i used to drive a focus and disable DRL is just taking a electrical part out from the fuse box, anyone knows an easier way on mazda6? much appreciated

zoomzoomfan 07-19-2006 12:27 AM

I've done a few DRL disablements on people's 6s. Its not that hard, but its quite a PITA to work upside down under the dash.

Here's what involved:

1. Under the dash, there's a blue box.
2. You need to find one of the wires coming out of that box (the exact colour of the wire escapes me at the moment, but there's a write up on the forum, I believe by Guinea Pig) and cut it.
3. Attach a piece of ground wire to the end of the wire that's still attached to the blue box, and ground it to a nearby screw or bolt under the dash.

That's about it.

You'll spend most of the time wresting with the wire, trying to get it cut, stripped, and getting the ground wire attached. All this while working upside down under the dash, where there is no light and where there is only enough space for one hand (we humans tend to have two and generally work better when using both hands together)

Hope this helps.

PS! It seems like you may already have read that write-up, in which case the answer to your question is: yes, there's no other way.

CLaman 07-22-2006 12:36 AM

If we buy a set of HIDs with lifetime warranty...why do we need to disable DRL's....its covered by warranty anyways is it not?

just asking because i didn't want to start a new thread

zoomzoomfan 07-22-2006 01:13 AM

Quote:

If we buy a set of HIDs with lifetime warranty...why do we need to disable DRL's....its covered by warranty anyways is it not?

just asking because i didn't want to start a new thread
[/b]
Good point... but your kit won't last longer than a few days (or even hours) with the DRL circuit intact. I'm sure you'd want to get at least a few months of use out of the kit before your ballasts go kaboom.

The rapid on/off pulsation of the lowbeam circuit that's needed to create the low-output DRL really does one heck of a number on the ballasts. Ballasts (especially aftermarket kit ballasts that have inferior electronics compared to OEM ballasts) are only intended to be turned on and off once within at least 2 or 3 minutes.

Goldfinger 07-22-2006 01:19 PM

Quote:

Good point... but your kit won't last longer than a few days (or even hours) with the DRL circuit intact. I'm sure you'd want to get at least a few months of use out of the kit before your ballasts go kaboom.

The rapid on/off pulsation of the lowbeam circuit that's needed to create the low-output DRL really does one heck of a number on the ballasts. Ballasts (especially aftermarket kit ballasts that have inferior electronics compared to OEM ballasts) are only intended to be turned on and off once within at least 2 or 3 minutes.
[/b]
So is it better to always have the 'full package' on even when you don't have HIDs, including during the day?

WHITEonBLACK 07-24-2006 05:18 PM

Quote:

I've done a few DRL disablements on people's 6s. Its not that hard, but its quite a PITA to work upside down under the dash.

Here's what involved:

1. Under the dash, there's a blue box.
2. You need to find one of the wires coming out of that box (the exact colour of the wire escapes me at the moment, but there's a write up on the forum, I believe by Guinea Pig) and cut it.
3. Attach a piece of ground wire to the end of the wire that's still attached to the blue box, and ground it to a nearby screw or bolt under the dash.

That's about it.

You'll spend most of the time wresting with the wire, trying to get it cut, stripped, and getting the ground wire attached. All this while working upside down under the dash, where there is no light and where there is only enough space for one hand (we humans tend to have two and generally work better when using both hands together)

Hope this helps.

PS! It seems like you may already have read that write-up, in which case the answer to your question is: yes, there's no other way.
[/b]
done!, just that brown wire needs to be cut, but dam~, that wasn't fun when down there under the dash =.=...but thx a million tho

zoomzoomfan 07-24-2006 06:28 PM

Quote:

done!, just that brown wire needs to be cut, but dam~, that wasn't fun when down there under the dash =.=...but thx a million tho
[/b]
To be help of I am glad.

Quote:

So is it better to always have the 'full package' on even when you don't have HIDs, including during the day?
[/b]
Well, if you don't have HIDs then don't worry about it. A standard H1 bulb isn't sensitive to the pulsations, not like the fancy electronics inside a ballasts. Also, an H1 bulb is a few dollars in cost compared to several hundred dollars in the case of a ballast.

So, the advice only applies to those who've got HIDs.

channt 07-24-2006 11:40 PM

forget that... just do what i did:

link the HID ground directly to the battery. In this way you will have your HID always on when you start the car or when you turn on the lights. Also you'd be in compliance with canadian laws regarding DRL.

There will always be enough current to the ballast, therefore will extend your ballast lifetime more.

WHITEonBLACK 07-25-2006 01:33 PM

Quote:

To be help of I am glad.
Well, if you don't have HIDs then don't worry about it. A standard H1 bulb isn't sensitive to the pulsations, not like the fancy electronics inside a ballasts. Also, an H1 bulb is a few dollars in cost compared to several hundred dollars in the case of a ballast.

So, the advice only applies to those who've got HIDs.
[/b]
my hid is here, but when i do the installation, do i actually need to take off the bumpers etc or i can do it straight after the hood is open? seems like the space is pretty tight at the back of the headlighs

zoomzoomfan 07-26-2006 05:58 PM

Unless you've got tiny hands, there's no way you'll be able to succesfully perform the install with the bumper in place and the headlights installed. You'll need to remove the bumper and the headlights. Its really not that hard. Takes about 15 minutes tops till the headlights are out.


t_mo_t 07-28-2006 12:55 AM

Quote:

forget that... just do what i did:

link the HID ground directly to the battery. In this way you will have your HID always on when you start the car or when you turn on the lights. Also you'd be in compliance with canadian laws regarding DRL.

There will always be enough current to the ballast, therefore will extend your ballast lifetime more.
[/b]
.... r u serious??? when u start up your car, it would take lots of amp to turn on the engine, plus the HID???

and also, no wiring harness?? :nono: so basically, u wouldnt know what's happening to the ballast once you get a spike in battery power? unless u have the xtec, then i'd say GET A WIRING HARNESS !!!

Quote:

Unless you've got tiny hands, there's no way you'll be able to succesfully perform the install with the bumper in place and the headlights installed. You'll need to remove the bumper and the headlights. Its really not that hard. Takes about 15 minutes tops till the headlights are out.
[/b]
werd... !!! ^^

channt 10-08-2006 02:23 AM

Quote:

.... r u serious??? when u start up your car, it would take lots of amp to turn on the engine, plus the HID???

and also, no wiring harness?? :nono: so basically, u wouldnt know what's happening to the ballast once you get a spike in battery power? unless u have the xtec, then i'd say GET A WIRING HARNESS !!!
werd... !!! ^^
[/b]

ive had no problem in 3 years. brand is Meccatune.

Even when the Ac or heater on...

why u guys are so into Xtec, many people have had many problems with them.

An online store said in a BWM forum that they have had so many returned ballasts that they dont even sell Xtec anymore.

The only good thing is the lifetime warranty, which is more a marketing strategy than anything else.

it might be brighter than other HID kits, but more reliable!?! I dont know about that.


6 Pack 11-02-2006 01:32 AM

Hey guys !

Channt , I like the idea of having them on all the time (when engine on) . Where did you hear about extending the life of the ballasts this way with the harness-to-battery hook-up ?
Do we still have to disable our DRLs when we go with that harness option ?

Here's Guinea Pig's WRITE-UP on disabling the Day Running Lights

t mo t , you say GO ! with the wire harness-to-battery with the Xtec . Why Xtec and not another brand ? Is it 'cause of the Lifetime Warranty ?
Don't HIDs draw less power on the electrical system ; so how could it hurt the amps at start-up ??
Apexcone (Xtec) kits come with the wire harness for the battery if you ask for it . Well I'm 90% sold on a 55w 5000K HID kit from Apexcone ; you mind telling me why when 90% don't get the harness when they buy the kit ? Must be 'cause these 90% are Americans without DRLs .
Does it come out more expensive with your retro-fit (your sig) and how does it compare in performance output/look ?

zoomzoomfan , you mention that there's a recommended waiting period of 2-3 minutes before lighting 'em up again ..... what happens if you have to use your HIGHS with a 'flash-to-pass' maneuver ; that going to shorten the HIDs lifespan too ?

zoomzoomfan 11-02-2006 01:45 AM

Harness and DRLs are totally unrelated to each other. You will still need to disable the DRLs whether or not you use a separate harness for the HIDs.

The majority of people choose not to use an additional harness cuz they figure the stock harness is adequate.

If you have a Canadian 6 (i.e. with DRLs) you must disable your DRLs. This, however, only applies to 04 and 05 model years. The 06's are different and do not require DRLs to be disabled.


6 Pack 11-02-2006 01:57 AM

Thx for the reply zoomzoomfan .... while you were answering , I was editing/adding a question for you in the bottom of my previous post .

Already , so I gather (with your help heheh) that channt wasn't talking about that wire harness supplied with kit upon demand . OK also for that harness use , should I say USELESS then ?
I have the '05 CDN model , guess the '06's DRL is different 'cause they chose to use only one kind - the same as the ones that have the OEM HID option ; more cost effective ...

I noticed in your sig. (man is it ever hard to read haha) you used projectors + the Xtec 4500K with the 50w option (instead of the 35w) .
If you check my post in the Electrical section under the Apexcone thread ; there is a debate between two vendors about ''washout'' in hue color temp due to the increase from 35 to 50w . Can you give me some feedback on this since you have the 55w (I'm planning on getting the 50w 5000K for a hint of blue hue .... does yours have blue hue at all in the flicker when you look at the headlight housing ? - not the road !)

Spidy 11-02-2006 05:07 AM

<edit> never mind...

zoomzoomfan 11-03-2006 08:45 PM

Quote:

Already , so I gather (with your help heheh) that channt wasn&#39;t talking about that wire harness supplied with kit upon demand . OK also for that harness use , should I say USELESS then ?
[/b]
If the harness that comes with the kit has one or two relays, two fuses, and connects the battery directly to the ballasts, then that&#39;s the kind of harness that you need to be getting. I&#39;m not sure what sort of a harness these kits come with. I know that I had to purchase my harness separately for about $40 extra. Alternatively, if you&#39;re handy with a soldering iron, you can make your own harness. All you need is some decent gauge wire, some terminals, fuse holders, and some relays. I made a harness for a HID install that I did for a Mazda3 owner. Wasn&#39;t all that hard to manufacture.

Quote:

Can you give me some feedback on this since you have the 55w (I&#39;m planning on getting the 50w 5000K for a hint of blue hue .... does yours have blue hue at all in the flicker when you look at the headlight housing ? - not the road !)
[/b]
Well, lets compare apples to apples first. I assume you&#39;re looking at the XTEC H1 kit. My projectors are D2S and therefore, by default, there will be some bluish/purple flicker when looking at the lights from a distance... but only from a certain angle. My ballasts and bulbs, although made by XTEC, are D2S also.

Now, I&#39;ve had a chance to compare the 4500K XTEC 50watt H1 setup (i.e. XTEC 4500K H1 bulbs in stock halogen projector with XTEC 50watt ballasts) to my own set up. You&#39;d think they&#39;d look the same, but this isn&#39;t the case. A side-by-side comparison showed that the H1 kit was a bit yellower than the D2S.

Now, although D2S projectors have colour in the cutoff, this doesn&#39;t account for the colour difference we noticed. Assuming that the ballasts are producing the same amount of power in both cases, it could be down differences in the bulbs. Or, it could very well be that the D2S ballasts aren&#39;t making as much power as the H1 ballasts.

So, in my case, I did not experience a "washout" condition.

Hope this info helps.


6 Pack 11-04-2006 03:57 AM

Quote:



Now, I&#39;ve had a chance to compare the 4500K XTEC 50watt H1 setup (i.e. XTEC 4500K H1 bulbs in stock halogen projector with XTEC 50watt ballasts) to my own set up. You&#39;d think they&#39;d look the same, but this isn&#39;t the case. A side-by-side comparison showed that the H1 kit was a bit yellower than the D2S.

Now, although D2S projectors have colour in the cutoff, this doesn&#39;t account for the colour difference we noticed. Assuming that the ballasts are producing the same amount of power in both cases, it could be down differences in the bulbs. Or, it could very well be that the D2S ballasts aren&#39;t making as much power as the H1 ballasts.

So, in my case, I did not experience a "washout" condition.

Hope this info helps.
[/b]
In your comparo with the XTEC , did you get a chance also to compare light output on the road ahead to see the differences .... was it noticeable and in which way ? Was one brighter than the other ... more focused / glare , what not ?

For the yellowish , I figure the 5000K should resolve that issue , if any . A retro fit is great , but there is a lot involved in the process and I feel intimidated by it so far after all the reading involved .... yet the H1 kit from XTEC somewhat worries me with what I read that they are plagued with ballast problems despite their lifetime warranty ; it still sucks to have to replace &#39;em like every three months ! Makes me wonder if it has to do with the fact that some turn&#39;em off without waiting the 2-3 minutes after igniting &#39;em ? So I guess flash-to-pass (HIGH Beams) is out of the question , or else .... ? Hard decisions ! Rrrr

Thx again zoomzoomfan , your input is appreciated !

zoomzoomfan 11-06-2006 12:37 PM

6 Pack. I&#39;d just like to explain the comparison again, so things make more sense:

Car #1: Mazda6 with stock halogen projectors, XTEC 50Watt H1 kit with 4500K bulbs.

Car #2: Mazda6 with retrofitted HID projectors, XTEC 50Watt D2S kit with 4500K bulbs.

Differences noted:

Car #1: Yellower and SEEMINGLY slightly brighter output. Light beam concentrated on two distinct spots on the road (aka hotspots). Cutoff offered no colour whatsoever, whether one looks at the lights while standing in front of the car, or looking at the cutoff projected on a wall while sitting inside the car. Glare was quite definitely an issue as well.

Car #2: Bluer output. Not necessarily brighter or dimmer than car #1. Light beam is spread evenly from side to side (left-to-right) and therefore some people mistakenly think the output is dimmer. Not true, I assure you. Cutoff had distinct areas of blue-purple when looking at cutoff projected on a wall. Blue-purple could also be noted when looking at the lights while standing in front of the car at a considerable distance, off to the side a bit. No glare.

Analysis of the findings:

What you&#39;ve essentially witnessed is a comparison of projectors and NOT of the two kits. What I mean to say is that all the differences between car #1 and #2 noted above cannot be attributed to the two variants of XTEC 50 Watt kits installed in the respective cars. The differences can only be attributed to the fact that one of the cars is using stock halogen projectors and the other is using retrofitted HID projectors from a late-model BMW.

I hope you&#39;re able to appreciate what I&#39;m trying to say: essentially that the comparison is unfair and in fact invalid.

For your question regarding the XTEC ballast problems. Yes, it was true that they were having issues. These issues seem to have stablized. I think RPM more than XTEC had been instrumental in ensuring that we, the customer, didn&#39;t get screwed. Hats off to Donny for that. In any case, bear in mind a few things. If you&#39;re going to put an aftermarket ballast into your car, you need to expect that the unit will give you issues at some point in time. Therefore, the lifetime warranty is a must with kits. Don&#39;t buy a kit that doesn&#39;t offer a decent warranty.

Those people who initially got bad XTEC ballasts, myself included, have since then been running trouble free for almost 11 months now. Seems like the XTEC ballast issue is a thing of the past.

As for user behaviour with respect to turning on and off the lights, this is unfortunately something that needs to be practices regardless of which brand of kit is being used. Aftermarket ballasts are inferior by nature in comparison to OEM ballasts and if the user/owner is in the habit of turning on and off the lights in rapid succession, they can only be inviting issues as a result. Try not to do it, that&#39;s the bottom line... especially when running an aftermarket ballast.

HTH

6 Pack 11-09-2006 02:17 AM

zoomzoomfan , Thx for taking time to explain in detail . :)
So I gather car #1 which has the stock projector also had its metal glare piece in ... or was it taken out ?
I get those hotspots in my stock lighting ; two beams that focus a straight line . That&#39;s why I turn on my integrated fogs for a more uniformed beam (the H3s as you know light output is spread & upclose while the H1s beam out further and focused . So I guess with an H1 HID kit you get the same stock light output pattern ? Is this what you observed ?
I&#39;ve read that the ECE projectors are needed when you have Xenon-charged bulbs cause they light up at the tip of the bulb , unlike the halogens that light up the whole part of the bulb (if I remember correctly) . Does this still apply with the H1 Xenon-charged kit ?

Now as I have probably mentioned it before ; I am willing to go with the 5000K for that light hint of blue hue .

The following is what one member posted :

I have 5000K Xtec, they have been installed for over a year now. No issues, rarely get a high beam flash from oncoming traffic (maybe twice in over a year) and they are a huge improvement over stock. Look very white to slightly blue, depending on angle you look at the headlights. White from head on, blueish at side angles. I have had many compliments on the lights and when anyone gets in the car at night it is the first think they notice. Also good to note that as HIDS age they will get higher in the K scale over time.

And what he answered to my questions in PM :

The kit I have uses the existing stock projectors. The install was easy, only had to drill a small hole in the dust caps at the back of the headlight assembly to pass the wires through. Then mount the ballasts.

I believe flashing the high beams leaves the low beams on, so you should not have any issues with ballast life when flashing high beams. I know I have not.

I did not remove the or change anything on the stock headlamp. I have no issues with glare. It could be the fact that I have eyelids, but they do not get in the way of the beam as I can see the cut offs clearly. The light output is very improved over stock. It is a night and day difference for me. I have yet to come by another car that illuminates the road as bright as mine does not. That includes all sorts of Lexus, Nissan, BMW, Benz, Audi, Infiniti, MazdaSpeed, etc cars that have factory HIDs. As far as signs go, that was one of the first things I noticed. Signs now illuminate a lot more due to the white, blue light output. Especially any signs with reflective properties.


I&#39;d like your opinion on that as well . Much appreciated as usual zoomzoomfan

zoomzoomfan 11-09-2006 03:13 AM

Quote:

So I gather car #1 which has the stock projector also had its metal glare piece in ... or was it taken out ?
[/b]
Car #1 had the up-beam reflector a.k.a. "squirrel finder" in place.

Quote:

So I guess with an H1 HID kit you get the same stock light output pattern ? Is this what you observed ?
[/b]
Yes, a kit installed into a halogen projector will only create an exagerrated light output pattern that&#39;s pretty much the same as the stock halogen pattern. Complete with hotspots, glare and fuzzy cutoff line with no colour.

Quote:

I&#39;ve read that the ECE projectors are needed when you have Xenon-charged bulbs cause they light up at the tip of the bulb , unlike the halogens that light up the whole part of the bulb (if I remember correctly) .
Does this still apply with the H1 Xenon-charged kit ?
[/b]
The xenon bulbs that you get in a kit are rebased bulbs. This means that the base of the bulb was altered to make it fit a halogen application. The bulb itself isn&#39;t too different from a "real" xenon bulb. The quality of the kit bulb, however, is questionable. So, lets just say, for simplicity sake, that kit bulbs are xenon bulbs since, as you mentioned above, they create a longitudinal arc of light just as "real" xenon bulbs do.

Now, you need to keep in mind that a xenon headlight system has many components that are designed to work together. The bulb is only half of the team, so to speak. The other half of the team is the projector.

It makes little to no sense to put a xenon bulb inside a halogen projector. Halogen projectors are made for halogen bulbs, and no attention is paid to the special needs that the xenon bulb has. The shape of the bowl is incorrect, the type of lense that sits in front of the bowl is incorrect, and the cutoff shield is also not correct.

What you need, when using a xenon bulb, is a proper HID projector. ECE projectors are only one type of HID projector. HID projectors also come in a DOT variant and are also ideal.

You also should keep in mind a few other things. Kit bulbs, although they work on the same principles as "real" xenon bulbs, are not of the same quality. They often have less that 50% of the life of an OEM xenon bulb, and they also quite often have focal point issues. This means that, whereas an OEM xenon bulb creates a perfect arc of light, according to the accepted specs, an aftermarket kit xenon bulb will create an approximate arc.

Also note that kit bulbs are never made by reputable companies. Philips, Osram, Hella, etc, do not involve themselves in the manufacture of kit bulbs, or complete kits for that matter. Kit bulbs are made by small outfits that lack the technology or standards to create a bulb that can operate to spec.

Quote:


The following is what one member posted :

I have 5000K Xtec, they have been installed for over a year now. No issues, rarely get a high beam flash from oncoming traffic (maybe twice in over a year) and they are a huge improvement over stock. Look very white to slightly blue, depending on angle you look at the headlights. White from head on, blueish at side angles. I have had many compliments on the lights and when anyone gets in the car at night it is the first think they notice. Also good to note that as HIDS age they will get higher in the K scale over time.

And what he answered to my questions in PM :

The kit I have uses the existing stock projectors. The install was easy, only had to drill a small hole in the dust caps at the back of the headlight assembly to pass the wires through. Then mount the ballasts.

I believe flashing the high beams leaves the low beams on, so you should not have any issues with ballast life when flashing high beams. I know I have not.

I did not remove the or change anything on the stock headlamp. I have no issues with glare. It could be the fact that I have eyelids, but they do not get in the way of the beam as I can see the cut offs clearly. The light output is very improved over stock. It is a night and day difference for me. I have yet to come by another car that illuminates the road as bright as mine does not. That includes all sorts of Lexus, Nissan, BMW, Benz, Audi, Infiniti, MazdaSpeed, etc cars that have factory HIDs. As far as signs go, that was one of the first things I noticed. Signs now illuminate a lot more due to the white, blue light output. Especially any signs with reflective properties.


I&#39;d like your opinion on that as well . Much appreciated as usual zoomzoomfan
[/b]
Ok, a few things going on here. Glare isn&#39;t necessarily going to be a huge issue with halogen projectors with xenon bulbs. Some projectors are worse than others, but projectors are always way better than reflectors. I loathe those morons (ricers usually) who stick HID kits into a reflector... usually Civic people.

But, I&#39;m by no means saying that glare won&#39;t exist in a halogen projector with kit setup. It will still be there, but less of it. Also, you&#39;d be amazed how tolerant oncoming drivers are to glare these days. The only way you&#39;ll notice glare in your halogen projector with kit, is when you park next to a car with an OEM setup and pay attention to the differences. Its guaranteed that you won&#39;t see glare in the OEM setup.

Secondly, the person who you&#39;re referencing is only guessing that flashing the highbeams won&#39;t be an issue. I can tell you that it will be an issue. Park infront of a window with your low-beams off, and then flash your highbeams and let me know what you see. When flashing, keep the flashes a bit prolonged. You should notice that your lowbeams come on during the flash. You don&#39;t want this happening when there&#39;s a ballast installed on your lowbeams. Sure, it won&#39;t kill the ballast right away... and it won&#39;t harm your ballast to accidentally flash on occasion, but repeated behaviour will definitely cause problems.

Lastly, about the kit making more light than OEM... hehe, this is unfortunately a common fallacy for kit-users. What happens when a kit is installed in your halogen projectors is that the projector simply dumps all that light onto one spot on the road. This spot, combined with the spot from the other projector will give you the illusion that the road is being lit up more.

An HID projector, OTOH, is designed to evenly spread the light out from left to right. In essence, the intense light from the xenon bulbs is being properly "managed" by the projector and hence light distribution is even.

This gives the kit user the impression that his/her lights are superior. Not true.

HTH

t_mo_t 11-09-2006 12:27 PM

holy..... umm... gogogo haroon !! lol

zoomzoomfan 11-09-2006 02:40 PM

Thanks for the support Tim :)

6 Pack 11-10-2006 02:17 AM

Very interesting info packed in one thread ... you got me leaning more towards the Retro-Fit more than kit now .... I guess I&#39;ll have to read more on the conversion and learn about what&#39;s involved really with the conversion . From what I read here T Mo T had complications with opening up his headlights (cracked one) hope it doesn&#39;t happen too often with everyone . There&#39;s also lots of parts to taking apart & replacing the projectors ; I&#39;ll have to get more familiar with this too as there were pics in tT Mo T thread that I didn&#39;t understood ; being I&#39;m a Noob in this department (not the fact he didn&#39;t do a good write-up) . I do have a friend who has a shop and has done several baking headlights . Is there anything particular that needs to be known with the 6&#39;s headlamp housing when baking to help him do the job problem-free ? I&#39;ll have to check the Stickys too , don&#39;t worry .

So far , what I remember is that DOT prj. are milky on the lense but forget how that translates in beam output and that ECE 46 were THE ones to go with as they were clear with a sorta circle on the lense and have better something I forget .

I&#39;ve read HID Planet sells complete ECE kits that are supposed to be new (w/out the harness) but with the Hella balasts ; think I remembered reading people preferring another balast brand ... Bosch/AL as the name for some reason . Regarding the balasts ; I gather they are not LifeTime Warrantied ? but somehow being OEM they should last-problem free ... good for how long ? What about the igniters - are they better integrated to the balasts or separate ? Also their prj. are both left (or right ?) but lately someone here had one of each side from them . I think they are Bosch from BMWs , their prj.

Now for the bulbs ... I know they come in 4100K . Now how to these light up in hue ? I think I&#39;ve read they were very white to some yellow and that you could augment the Ks . Is that possible , and what would you choose to get more white/hint blue ? How much do they retail for the bulbs ?
Then there&#39;s the cut-off shield (forgot proper term) that you bend to get more blue ... but I have still yet to understand properly as I haven&#39;t seen a picture of this thing yet . Just know it&#39;s more towards the rear where the bulb inserts ... but I think HID Planet already bends&#39;em at the right angle for ya before shippin&#39;em out ?

Man ! There&#39;s so much to know that I don&#39;t and now that I know about H1 Kits ; I want it right the first time ! Wish I knew someeone close that did it , maybe he&#39;d be willing to do mine ! Originally in this thread we talked about Guinea Pig (he&#39;s from Montreal like me) but it seems he doesn&#39;t come here too too much anymore as it&#39;s been a loooong time I haven&#39;t seen him post . Anyone know if he did the retro-fit or the H1 Kit ?

Bless you zoomzoomfan for answering me , and now with more of my Noob questions http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...sedredface.gif There&#39;s quite a bunch to learn ... but I am willing to learn the most (like anything I get into) and I want the best the first time around .

What would be the ideal kit ... hmm ... retro kit hmm conversion (I&#39;m trying to get used to this mumbo jumbo language hahah) that you would build with the actual parts available on the market zoomzoomfan / T Mo T ?? I would really like to know , with prices also and where to get&#39;em .

channt 11-10-2006 02:59 AM

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Thx for the reply zoomzoomfan .... while you were answering , I was editing/adding a question for you in the bottom of my previous post .

Already , so I gather (with your help heheh) that channt wasn&#39;t talking about that wire harness supplied with kit upon demand . OK also for that harness use , should I say USELESS then ?
I have the &#39;05 CDN model , guess the &#39;06&#39;s DRL is different &#39;cause they chose to use only one kind - the same as the ones that have the OEM HID option ; more cost effective ...

I noticed in your sig. (man is it ever hard to read haha) you used projectors + the Xtec 4500K with the 50w option (instead of the 35w) .
If you check my post in the Electrical section under the Apexcone thread ; there is a debate between two vendors about &#39;&#39;washout&#39;&#39; in hue color temp due to the increase from 35 to 50w . Can you give me some feedback on this since you have the 55w (I&#39;m planning on getting the 50w 5000K for a hint of blue hue .... does yours have blue hue at all in the flicker when you look at the headlight housing ? - not the road !)
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well i dont what is the real word but basically i bought a wire with one female connector on one extrem and a ring on the other extrem. From your ballast you&#39;d have a male connect that is supposed to be black, plug it to the female you just made and the ring to the ground. I am not an electrician, I know it works and you dont have to disable DRL.

basically when this is done, you have your HID on when you start the car and the handbrake is released.

I read on HID planet, they said that the ballast needs a certain amount voltage to start properly, if voltage is too low the ballast will shut off by itself and shorten the lifespan of the ballasts. Current are also lost from the battery or alternartor to the ligghting sytem.

If i remember the theory, it should be something like that.

I did this because I have a remote starter, and when i start the car the HID would flickers because of the DRL. Now when i start, HID is always on and I still have DRL but it is HID.

[attachmentid=17042]

6 Pack 11-10-2006 01:46 PM

Hey Channt that&#39;s some set-up .... we should hook up say at the Julep ... I&#39;d like to see your car & exchange some verbal ... you can PM me

channt 11-10-2006 01:56 PM

i dont mind but not this soon, i have to study like crazy... failed 3 midterm so far.

it isnt hard, just take take the black wire from the ballast and bolt it to the ground. i&#39;ll take some pictures.

6 Pack 11-10-2006 02:27 PM

Ya , I&#39;m sure it isn&#39;t .. just like to see how she shines your car haha and shoot the shit and check out your HID set-up esp.

zoomzoomfan 11-11-2006 04:15 AM

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you got me leaning more towards the Retro-Fit more than kit now
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If that&#39;s the case, then my job here&#39;s done :)

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From what I read here T Mo T had complications with opening up his headlights (cracked one) hope it doesn&#39;t happen too often with everyone
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Umm, that&#39;s cuz t_mo_t is, well, t_mo_t... hehe, just kidding Tim, if you&#39;re reading this :)

Honestly, though, it doesn&#39;t happen to everyone.

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There&#39;s also lots of parts to taking apart & replacing the projectors ; I&#39;ll have to get more familiar with this too as there were pics in tT Mo T thread that I didn&#39;t understood
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Not really. Its actually much easier than it seems in the write-up. I think I did my retrofit in under 2 hours. It took me longer to install my HID kit the first time around.

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(not the fact he didn&#39;t do a good write-up)
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Tim did an awesome write-up... I&#39;m still eternally endebted to him for teaching me what little I know.

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So far , what I remember is that DOT prj. are milky on the lense but forget how that translates in beam output and that ECE 46 were THE ones to go with as they were clear with a sorta circle on the lense and have better something I forget .
[/b]
Correct. The DOT projectors give a fuzzier cutoff and generally distribute the beam wider. The ECE projectors give a sharper cutoff and farther-reaching beam. Also, the shields inside the projector have steps that are of differing shapes. The ECE step is larger whereas the DOT step is shallower.

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I&#39;ve read HID Planet sells complete ECE kits that are supposed to be new (w/out the harness) but with the Hella balasts ; think I remembered reading people preferring another balast brand ... Bosch/AL as the name for some reason.
[/b]
Yes, HIDPlanet.com projectors are new and are ECE. The Bosch AL and Hella ballasts are equally reliable, however the Bosch ballast fits directly in the recess at the bottom of the headlights, since that&#39;s also the OEM ballast for the 6.

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Regarding the balasts ; I gather they are not LifeTime Warrantied ? but somehow being OEM they should last-problem free ... good for how long ? What about the igniters - are they better integrated to the balasts or separate ?
[/b]
Unfortunately when you&#39;re buying a second-hand part, there&#39;s no warranty. That is, I think the ONLY, downside to doing a retrofit. However, they&#39;re OEM quality and that by default means that they&#39;re at least 10x more reliable than any aftermarket ballast can ever hope to be. Most people, when weighing the two options (OEM with no warranty vs. aftermarket with lifetime warranty) tend to opt for OEM with no warranty.

Good for how long? Depends I guess on how well you treat them. They could last you for years if given the right treatment.

Igniters, IMO, are better separate. It allows for a more flexible installation, and it allows the igniter to be placed closer to the bulb. But, honestly, it doesn&#39;t really make a difference.

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Also their prj. are both left (or right ?) but lately someone here had one of each side from them . I think they are Bosch from BMWs , their prj.
[/b]
I&#39;ve heard all sorts of things, i.e. that they come left and left, or they come left and right. At the end of the day, it doesn&#39;t make a difference. If they come left and right, great. If not, they&#39;re just as easy to install and it makes no difference to the end-result.

Yes, the Bosch projectors on HIDPlanet.com are from the E46, which is the chassis code for the 1999-2003 BMW 3-series. The same projectors were also installed on Audi TT and a few other cars.





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Now for the bulbs ... I know they come in 4100K . Now how to these light up in hue ? I think I&#39;ve read they were very white to some yellow and that you could augment the Ks . Is that possible , and what would you choose to get more white/hint blue ? How much do they retail for the bulbs ?
[/b]
If you&#39;re going the retrofit route, you&#39;ll need the best bulbs you can get your hands on, and that is the Phillips 85122 or 85122+. The 85122 burns at either 4100K or 4300K. The 85122+ burns at 5000K. Initially all these bulbs will appear pure white with a slight creaminess. This is what you want, trust me. You don&#39;t want your bulbs giving off a blue hue. I don&#39;t know why everyone wants blue lights. Not only are you getting less lumens from a blue light, but your eye works harder to see at night. Also, in inclement weather when the road surface is wet, blue light gets absorbed by the road and nothing bounces back into your eye. The result is that you see nothing. So much for having HIDs.

What you want to do is get a 4100K or 4300K bulb are allow it to colourshift (after 100 or 200 hours of use) to a slightly bluer hue. The colour you end up with is ideal IMO. And, you&#39;ll end up looking very OEMish, which is what you want... not ricer-ish.

Not sure what you mean by augmenting the K-value of the bulbs. Colourshifting happens in its own after 200 hours or so. That&#39;s about the only thing that can be done to the bulb.

Plus, remember that your projector will add colour to the cutoff, which will give the blue-purple effect everyone&#39;s trying to achieve. If you want more colour, you can always colour-mod the projector.

HIDPlanet sells the 85122&#39;s for $79 US. Just got me some the other day. :)

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Then there&#39;s the cut-off shield (forgot proper term) that you bend to get more blue ... but I have still yet to understand properly as I haven&#39;t seen a picture of this thing yet . Just know it&#39;s more towards the rear where the bulb inserts ... but I think HID Planet already bends&#39;em at the right angle for ya before shippin&#39;em out ?
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Yes, if you buy the HIDPlanet.com projectors, they&#39;re already colour-modded. Honestly, I wouldn&#39;t touch them after that. The Bosch projector doesn&#39;t lend itself well to too much modding. There are better projectors out there that can be colour modded with better results. Unfortunately, they&#39;re very hard to install in the 6 (i.e. no one&#39;s tried it :))

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Man ! There&#39;s so much to know that I don&#39;t and now that I know about H1 Kits ; I want it right the first time ! Wish I knew someeone close that did it , maybe he&#39;d be willing to do mine ! Originally in this thread we talked about Guinea Pig (he&#39;s from Montreal like me) but it seems he doesn&#39;t come here too too much anymore as it&#39;s been a loooong time I haven&#39;t seen him post . Anyone know if he did the retro-fit or the H1 Kit ?
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Well, you said it yourself... if you want it done right the first time, then you should stop looking at H1 kits right now. Retrofit is the way to do it right.

No idea about GuineaPig&#39;s setup.

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There&#39;s quite a bunch to learn ... but I am willing to learn the most (like anything I get into) and I want the best the first time around .
[/b]
Join HIDPlanet.com&#39;s forum and read the "university" section. Read the threads, see people&#39;s retrofit pics, ask questions. That&#39;s how I did it. Plus, it helps to have friends like t_mo_t and hieppo :)

Quote:

What would be the ideal kit ... hmm ... retro kit hmm conversion (I&#39;m trying to get used to this mumbo jumbo language hahah) that you would build with the actual parts available on the market zoomzoomfan / T Mo T ?? I would really like to know , with prices also and where to get&#39;em .
[/b]
Remember...

kit = :thumbdn:
retrofit = :thumbup:

For the 6... the ideal setup IMHO is:

ECE E46 projectors... $99 a pair from HIDPlanet.com
Bosch AL ballasts... around $100 a pair on eBay, or check HIDPlanet.com forum&#39;s buy and sell section
Phillips 4300K bulbs... $80 a pair from HIDPlanet.com

HTH

Guinea Pig 11-23-2006 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally in this thread we talked about Guinea Pig (he&#39;s from Montreal like me) but it seems he doesn&#39;t come here too too much anymore as it&#39;s been a loooong time I haven&#39;t seen him post . Anyone know if he did the retro-fit or the H1 Kit ?
[/b]
Yep, I haven&#39;t been around for a while. Nightcourses and looking for a job have kept me pretty occupied. But even when I am around, I&#39;m usually a lurker.

Anywho, my HIDs aren&#39;t retro-fitted. The option wasn&#39;t available when I installed mine. Honestly, unless I see a retro-fitted 6 and the benefits that it has, I don&#39;t see a reason for it. I&#39;ve had friends check my lights at night (while driving in front of me) and no one complained about the glare. I did lower my lighting angle a slight bit.



Quote:

forget that... just do what i did:

link the HID ground directly to the battery. In this way you will have your HID always on when you start the car or when you turn on the lights. Also you&#39;d be in compliance with canadian laws regarding DRL.

There will always be enough current to the ballast, therefore will extend your ballast lifetime more.
[/b]
My reservation about choosing this route is the premature burn-out of the bulb. I know that HID bulbs have a pretty long life-span (about 2500 hours) but using them as your day-running lights will kill them early. And at about $80 - $110 Cdn each, I want them to last.

I haven&#39;t had DRLs on my car for more than two years and no problems yet from the cops. If it&#39;s a cloudy day, I&#39;ll turn my lights on just to make sure. Another member, Spidy, recently made a great discovery with turning the integrated fogs into DRLs (Spidy&#39;s post). I&#39;ve been wanting to do this mod, but haven&#39;t had the time.
)

6 Pack 11-24-2006 03:54 AM

It&#39;s good to see you back Eddie ! Give me a call so we can get together and check-out your set-up !

Guinea Pig 11-24-2006 10:28 AM

Sure, do you guys still meet up regularly at the Julep?

6 Pack 11-25-2006 01:43 AM

I haven&#39;t since , been too busy with mods. on my 6 and family life + moderating on Montreal Mustang
Check your PM , and give me a call Saturday , if you catch the answering machine (french girlfriend on it) leave me your #

syslee 01-27-2010 03:47 PM

can anyone let me know what is the brown wire? i just want to know what i am cutting there
thanks

Egierda 01-27-2010 03:52 PM

The brown wire is the brown wire, lol. It&#39;s located on the harness that comes out of the blue box just above the driver&#39;s side foot well.

keywizard 05-17-2014 12:54 AM

Hi there
I came across this tip on the Mazda 3 forum. I drive an overseas Mazda 6 (2.2 diesel estate version) however, I can't imagine when taking all other similarities into account that this would be different in affiliation with the electronics of these cars? (Less of course specific regulations require the different country distributors to actively alter the ability to control the functions of eg. DRL?)
I too plan on retrofitting the CREE fiberoptics foglight bezels to replace the lowbeam standard DRLs. Actually I tried to do this just by removing the DRL fuse, only thing was - no fuse was found in the slot (f51)???

So I found this tip which should apply for Mazda 3 2014. Anyone know if this or equal "secret sequence" works with M6? I tried it on mine without much luck so far (perhaps wrong pace or something?)

Here is what it says:

HERE'S HOW TO DO IT:
SETUP:
1) car set to ignition (car is active, but engine is off)
2) press brake pedal down and hold during the whole time
3) parking brake up
START:
you have to do the whole process once you start under 23sec.
4) turn parking light on and off 5 times. on - off - on - off - on - off , etc.
under 2 sec start #5
5) turn hazard light on and off 5 times.
under 2 sec start #6
6) turn parking light on and off 5 times.
DONE:
7) to check if the DRL still comes on, simply disengage the parking brake. If it doesn't come on, then you're done. Otherwise repeat the process again.


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