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post #31 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 10:52 AM
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Is this really true... i.e. that the transmission filter is integral with the pan and so the pan /filter ass'y needs to be changed out every time you want to change your ATF filter? That's really weird and dumb.
Yup, BMW's use the exact same method. It's to just make more money from buying extra parts. I wish the pan was metal and the filter was just removable and replaceable.
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post #32 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 11:04 AM
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Does anyone have an answer? I would have thought the ATF level check would involve a weir tube and an accurate ATF temp assessment... putting the transmission controller into svce mode, etc... ????
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Yup, BMW's use the exact same method. It's to just make more money from buying extra parts. I wish the pan was metal and the filter was just removable and replaceable.
It's to keep shade tree mechanics from screwing things up they shouldn't be messing with.

If you pull the pan be prepared to remove the seal completely and create a perfect mounting surface or you're going to be cleaning the garage floor every day and constantly checking the ATM fluid. Still no guarantee it will be sealed/torqued correctly.

If you must change the ATM oil use the drain plug and replace the amount that comes out. You're simply asking for trouble going beyond that. It's called upsetting the apple cart.

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post #33 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 11:27 AM
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ATF Level Check and Adjustment... appears to be a combination of a cap-screw retained dipstick (with apparently horribly bad access i.e. under the airbox) and the need to ensure the ATF temp is in a certain range (around 122 degrees F). Needless to say the car has to be level and a person has to cycle between all transmission quadrant positions and the car has to be idling. First two screenprints... for a 2014 model (can't vouch for applicability beyond 2014... but likely it is applicable). There may be a way to put atf logic module into service mode and to use it to determine atf temp...
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post #34 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 11:28 AM
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post #35 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 11:39 AM
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So is it not possible to change the ATF filter on the Mazda6 ? Just the the ATF?
No this is not true. The filter is integrated into the transmission pan, so you'll have to order a new one. Be sure to properly reseal the new one with a gasket to avoid leaks.
Is this really true... i.e. that the transmission filter is integral with the pan and so the pan /filter ass'y needs to be changed out every time you want to change your ATF filter? That's really weird and dumb.
You don't need to put on a whole new pan, only put on a new gasket.

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So I changed out the automatic transmission fluid in my 2014 Touring over the labor day weekend....
.....To access the dipstick I had to remove the air intake box which required turning the car off. Reading the manual it says to check the dipstick with the car running. How do you access the dipstick without removing the intake box? The car won't run with the airbox removed. I've put about 100 miles on the car since and it's been driving fine so I'm not too worried, but just curious how others check their transmission fluid level?
Does anyone have an answer? I would have thought the ATF level check would involve a weir tube and an accurate ATF temp assessment... putting the transmission controller into svce mode, etc... ????
Not sure you would need to go through that much trouble. The transmission is a sealed system, the only way the fluid level would change is if it was leaking. That's why they don't tell you to change it, because the fluid will stay at the same level and so could potentially continue working. If you don't see any leaks, then assume the fluid is at the same level as when it was new.

Now, just pull the dipstick and mark what level it's at cold. After you drain it, fill it back up to that same level.

You could also buy one of these like I did:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G0...op_mb_pd_title

Drain all the fluid into that, put it on a level surface, mark the fluid level with a marker. Pour our the old fluid, fill it with new fluid to the same level. Then use the spout to pour the new fluid into the transmission. It might go without saying, but this method will only work if you're doing a drain and fill. If you drop the pan then you're not going to catch all the fluid in this pitcher.
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post #36 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 11:40 AM
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To be honest... a lot of trouble for the average person... to do it right and to ensure absolute cleanliness. It would not stop me...but I'm just that kind of person. I can see why Mazda dissuades even Mazda techs from doing this.

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post #37 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by idrive View Post
It's to keep shade tree mechanics from screwing things up they shouldn't be messing with.

If you pull the pan be prepared to remove the seal completely and create a perfect mounting surface or you're going to be cleaning the garage floor every day and constantly checking the ATM fluid. Still no guarantee it will be sealed/torqued correctly.

If you must change the ATM oil use the drain plug and replace the amount that comes out. You're simply asking for trouble going beyond that. It's called upsetting the apple cart.
drain/fill is useless because you're only getting a small fraction of fluid out of your transmission and it can potentially be quite dangerous at higher mileage if you are not replacing your pan. If you clean the surface area very well and apply gasket properly (being sure not to apply too much or it will seep into your transmission) and then torque everything down properly you won't run into any issues. It's the best and only correct way to service your transmission.

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To be honest... a lot of trouble for the average person... to do it right and to ensure absolute cleanliness. It would not stop me...but I'm just that kind of person. I can see why Mazda dissuades even Mazda techs from doing this.
They did it like this on purpose. They want to make it complicated and dissuade the techs from doing it so that your transmission gets dirty and just fails once the warranty period is up in hopes of you bringing your car to the dealer for a very overpriced trans replacement. They take your old unit, rebuild it and then resell maximizing their profits.
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post #38 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 12:14 PM
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@Get Inline Total BS ^^ Sad to see so much misinformation spewed.

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post #39 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Get Inline View Post
drain/fill is useless because you're only getting a small fraction of fluid out of your transmission and it can potentially be quite dangerous at higher mileage if you are not replacing your pan. If you clean the surface area very well and apply gasket properly (being sure not to apply too much or it will seep into your transmission) and then torque everything down properly you won't run into any issues. It's the best and only correct way to service your transmission.



They did it like this on purpose. They want to make it complicated and dissuade the techs from doing it so that your transmission gets dirty and just fails once the warranty period is up in hopes of you bringing your car to the dealer for a very overpriced trans replacement. They take your old unit, rebuild it and then resell maximizing their profits.
You dish out so much misinformation. Yeah Mazda or for that matter others design their products to fail right after warranty so that customers come back to them again and again to purchase their 'wonderfully reliable' product and make them tons of money. Aah! my head hurts when people come up with this kind of stupid logic.

Have you heard of something called 'factor of safety' in engineering design? If a car jack is rated at 1000 lbs it does not break at 1001 lbs, it can take loads of 2000 or even 3000 lbs before it does. Engineers design stuff for 3,4 or 5 times the normal operating parameters, for critical components the factor of safety is even more. When Mazda says lifetime transmission they would have tested it not to just 60K miles warranty limit but many times more. You know that the engines does not conk off at 60K miles, they go to 300K or even more. You should be replacing the pistons, rings and connecting rods in your car every 60K miles if you really believe in what you preach.
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post #40 of 80 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 12:42 PM
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drain/fill is useless because you're only getting a small fraction of fluid out of your transmission and it can potentially be quite dangerous at higher mileage if you are not replacing your pan. If you clean the surface area very well and apply gasket properly (being sure not to apply too much or it will seep into your transmission) and then torque everything down properly you won't run into any issues. It's the best and only correct way to service your transmission.



They did it like this on purpose. They want to make it complicated and dissuade the techs from doing it so that your transmission gets dirty and just fails once the warranty period is up in hopes of you bringing your car to the dealer for a very overpriced trans replacement. They take your old unit, rebuild it and then resell maximizing their profits.
You dish out so much misinformation. Yeah Mazda or for that matter others design their products to fail right after warranty so that customers come back to them again and again to purchase their 'wonderfully reliable' product and make them tons of money. Aah! my head hurts when people come up with this kind of stupid logic. <img src="http://forum.mazda6club.com/images/Mazda6Club_2014/smilies/tango_face_sad.png" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />

Have you heard of something called 'factor of safety' in engineering design? If a car jack is rated at 1000 lbs it does not break at 1001 lbs, it can take loads of 2000 or even 3000 lbs before it does. Engineers design stuff for 3,4 or 5 times the normal operating parameters, for critical components the factor of safety is even more. When Mazda says lifetime transmission they would have tested it not to just 60K miles warranty limit but many times more. You know that the engines does not conk off at 60K miles, they go to 300K or even more. You should be replacing the pistons, rings and connecting rods in your car every 60K miles if you really believe in what you preach.
Exactly
My Mazda Dealer provides a lifetime unlimited mileage warranty on the engine and transmission.
I doubt they would do that if they felt the factory was building them to fail.
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