How to do tranny fluid drain & fill on a 2012 mazda6 when there's no dipstick? - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 12:53 AM
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So lets say you order and install this stick and tube. If done before you dump the fluid AND IT SAYS ITS right at FULL, its good bet you nailed it with the correct PN!

Cross reference a couple of those parts to your car (year) and then google what they came out of. We should get a number.

If your trans has a pan at the bottom you can change the filter. Its likely not gaining you anything. However, if you have the means to do so, I would.
The 6 speeds don't open and you can't change the filter. Gotta split the case to open it to get the filter out.
Drain plug is to the left of the lower engine mount. AW6A-EL

2006 Mazda 6s GS Hatchback, Lapis Blue | AJ 3.0 & AW6A-EL 6 Spd, >119,000

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Final Impact,

Thanks for your suggestions. I will go ahead and do a filter change as well when I have the pan dropped during my transmission fluid change.

However, I was researching and even looked through the manual for my specific year & model (2012 mazda6 automatic) and no where can I find the recommended transmission fluid to use with it.

Do I automatically assume that Mazda M-V oil will work? Since the technical specs indicate 2nd gen Mazda 6 auto transmissions are 5-spd I'm assuming they are the FNR5 model transmissions, which it would be fine using anything that will be compatible with Mazda M-V / Mazda M5 (e.g., Redline D4, T-IV, Motorcraft FNR5, etc...?)

EDIT: Ok, owner's manual stated it is Mazda ATF M-V (M5) transmission fluid. So I'll probably go for one of the multi-vehicle fluids such as Mobil1, Amsoil, or Redline!

Last edited by pa2ad0x; 01-07-2014 at 07:06 PM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 06:10 PM
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Since I work at a "stealership" I'll throw in my two cents. I prefer drain and fills on my 6 since I have a dipstick tube and if I really feel like it I can throw some atf conditioner.

The way we do flushes is by hooking up the machine between the cooler and return line, we run the flush conditioner with the old fluid with the vehicle running for 10 to 15 min so it will flush the whole system. Then we switch it over so new fluid goes in, we go a quart over in the machine so we can push out the mixture of old fluid and flush conditioner mixing with new fluid. We have measurements to make sure its still at the correct capacity if the trans doesn't come with a dipstick. I think trans care should be scheduled as such; drain and fill one trans service, flush the next and so on.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Hey scifi266,

Thank you for your input. What are your thoughts on doing a transmission flush with an '012 mazda6 hovering about ~40k miles that has not had the tranny serviced yet? Do you recommending replacing the transmission filter at the same you are getting a tranny fluid flush (as I heard flushing can cause the filter to get clogged if the transmission fluid hasn't been changed in a while and clogged filter = bad news for the transmission)?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-09-2014, 02:13 PM
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A trans flush won't hurt your car at 40,000. Now if you went 120,000 without any service it would.

On the trans filter my opinion is no, unless you really want too. Every other drain and fill perhaps, tranny fluid at optimum temp should last 100,000 but in reality lasts only 40 to 50,000 miles. So if you do a service every 40,000 I would change it at 80,000 or 120,000. Nodata says it takes 1.1 but for at home I would say a good 2.5 to 3 hours to do it at a slow pace.

Last edited by scifi266; 01-09-2014 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Didnt sleep enough last night
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 10:53 PM
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Hey everyone. I have a 2009 Mazda 6 GT v6 and Currently have a transmission cooling line leak and it’s caused me to have a low trans oil level and slippage in 3rd gear. I’m in the works to do a drain and fill and fix the cooling line.

It seems I can’t find a video or tutorial On where the the drain plug is for the ATF on the 6 cyclinder. The 4 cylinder has a black drain pan with a hex bolt. I can’t find the bolt on the 6 cylinder. Can someone provide me with some guidance on where there drain plug is? Also not sure of where I can purchase a new cooling line. I’ve attached a picture to show where the leak is. I appreciate it and I’m looking forward to some help from the Mazda community!
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 10:11 PM
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I had a leak on my transmission cooler a while back and had to go through the nightmare of adding/checking/rechecking fluid because like someone above said, that plastic dipstick is NOT friendly. You got to add so many extensions to your wrench and relatively blindly try to get the dipstick out... all while reaching past hoses galore. Wear long sleeves and gloves... it gets pretty warmthy.



My transmission shifts a little weird when cold... esp during winter but it perfectly fine once warmed... could probably benefit from a little extra fluid but it's fine... I had to drain a little because it was overfilled the first go around and wouldnt shift buttery when warm. All in all, it is possible on a 2012 (I4), but much more difficult than it needs to be.
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