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Old 08-30-2013, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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About to change the transmission on 2004 Mazda6 4-speed auto

Went 110k without changed the fluid, so I think we've killed it. Shifting very hard and slipping on hills. I've got a low mileage used transmission on the way, and I just wanted see if there was anything specific to the Mazda6 I needed to do. I plan on taking out the old one on Monday.

Thanks guys.

2004 Mazda 6
2003 Saab 9-5
1966 Ford Mustang
2003 Chevrolet Suburban

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Old 08-31-2013, 06:20 PM
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I just started pulling mine out today.102,000 don't think the fluid was ever changed,it was black.
I had no 3rd or 4th gear local tranny shop wanted 2800.00 got my used tranny yesterday 73,000 mi 575.00 and looks fantastic,hope it works as good as it looks

I will keep checking this thread throughout this project,I will have a few days head start on you.

Rob
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jettech17 View Post
I just started pulling mine out today.102,000 don't think the fluid was ever changed,it was black.
I had no 3rd or 4th gear local tranny shop wanted 2800.00 got my used tranny yesterday 73,000 mi 575.00 and looks fantastic,hope it works as good as it looks

I will keep checking this thread throughout this project,I will have a few days head start on you.

Rob
Awesome, let me know what troubles you run into. The fluid actually doesn't look too bad, but like I said, it shifts very hard and started slipping while going up a hill the other day and the "AT" light was flashing on the dash. I picked up a used one with 65,000 miles for $600 delivered to my shop.

2004 Mazda 6
2003 Saab 9-5
1966 Ford Mustang
2003 Chevrolet Suburban

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Old 09-02-2013, 06:14 PM
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Hey J
Happy Labor Day
I got started on it,a few hours today and yesterday with my kid and I'm ready to drop the transaxle. The subframe wasn't to bad to drop,my only issue was
one of the stab bar end links. I stripped it and had to cut it off use a lot of PB blaster on all the bolts.
I followed the manual that says drop the transaxle down but looking at it if you took the intake manifold and hood off it may come out the top without dropping the subframe. Just a idea,I opted to follow the manual though
I'm off to a BBQ now.
Rob
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettech17 View Post
Hey J
Happy Labor Day
I got started on it,a few hours today and yesterday with my kid and I'm ready to drop the transaxle. The subframe wasn't to bad to drop,my only issue was
one of the stab bar end links. I stripped it and had to cut it off use a lot of PB blaster on all the bolts.
I followed the manual that says drop the transaxle down but looking at it if you took the intake manifold and hood off it may come out the top without dropping the subframe. Just a idea,I opted to follow the manual though
I'm off to a BBQ now.
Rob
Thank you. I hoping to not have to drop the subframe, but I guess it will have to happen. I worked on it a bit today, but got pretty much nowhere. As I was under the car I noticed the rotors were in really bad shape so I decided to go a head and remove them and replace them. They will not budge. I went to take off the small screws that hold the rotor to hub and they stripped. No problem I'll drill them out. Drilled out without issue, but I spent two hours banging on the rotor with every hammer I own and the drivers side never budged. I decided to forget it an worry about later and started to take the whole hub assembly of and I'd use a press to get the rotor off. Got the bolts off the tie rod end, lower ball joints, and upper ball joint and the hub won't move. Am I missing something?

Are you using a Haynes manual? It sounds like it's time for me to pick one up. haha I won't be able to work on it again until next weekend so hopefully I can pick one up this week.

Thanks again for the reply, and keep me posted. I'll do the same.

2004 Mazda 6
2003 Saab 9-5
1966 Ford Mustang
2003 Chevrolet Suburban

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Old 09-02-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Rod View Post
Thank you. I hoping to not have to drop the subframe, but I guess it will have to happen. I worked on it a bit today, but got pretty much nowhere. As I was under the car I noticed the rotors were in really bad shape so I decided to go a head and remove them and replace them. They will not budge. I went to take off the small screws that hold the rotor to hub and they stripped. No problem I'll drill them out. Drilled out without issue, but I spent two hours banging on the rotor with every hammer I own and the drivers side never budged. I decided to forget it an worry about later and started to take the whole hub assembly of and I'd use a press to get the rotor off. Got the bolts off the tie rod end, lower ball joints, and upper ball joint and the hub won't move. Am I missing something?

Are you using a Haynes manual? It sounds like it's time for me to pick one up. haha I won't be able to work on it again until next weekend so hopefully I can pick one up this week.

Thanks again for the reply, and keep me posted. I'll do the same.
I'm using mazda shop manual.
I didn't take the caliper or rotor off just removed axel nut and tapped the axel out
I can only work on it a little after work this week and hope to be done next weekend
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so you left the upper ball joint attached? I think I was making things way harder than they needed to be. This is why I need a manual. haha. Well, at this point I still need to get the rotor off because it's shot anyway.

2004 Mazda 6
2003 Saab 9-5
1966 Ford Mustang
2003 Chevrolet Suburban

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Old 09-03-2013, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Rod View Post
Okay so you left the upper ball joint attached? I think I was making things way harder than they needed to be. This is why I need a manual. haha. Well, at this point I still need to get the rotor off because it's shot anyway.
Ya left it hanging
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:42 PM
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FWIW: During the shipping confirm the seal for the torque converter didn't get torn up as there is nothing worse than big fluid leak upon start up or after install. Pull the converter out, inspect the seal, make sure it has no cuts and spring is not knocked off. Grease it up good with general purpose grease and slip the converter back on. Hold it level and spin it back and forth. You should feel it make 3 distinct engagements.

Also, the sub-frame if not returned to its former location will impact your wheel alignment. Mainly the Left right position will mess up the camber. Here are some details on getting it back. >> http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/...ml#post3487133

PS - don't forget to flush the coolant lines BEFORE connecting new trans!!! If you don't have shop air compressor, perhaps a can of brake clean and then dry it with a can of compressed air. You can never have it too clean.

Good luck gentlemen!

2006 Mazda 6s GS Hatchback, Lapis Blue | AJ 3.0 & AW6A-EL 6 Spd, >119,000

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Old 09-03-2013, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Rod View Post
Thank you. I hoping to not have to drop the subframe, but I guess it will have to happen. I worked on it a bit today, but got pretty much nowhere. As I was under the car I noticed the rotors were in really bad shape so I decided to go a head and remove them and replace them. They will not budge. I went to take off the small screws that hold the rotor to hub and they stripped. No problem I'll drill them out. Drilled out without issue, but I spent two hours banging on the rotor with every hammer I own and the drivers side never budged. I decided to forget it an worry about later and started to take the whole hub assembly of and I'd use a press to get the rotor off. Got the bolts off the tie rod end, lower ball joints, and upper ball joint and the hub won't move. Am I missing something?

Are you using a Haynes manual? It sounds like it's time for me to pick one up. haha I won't be able to work on it again until next weekend so hopefully I can pick one up this week.

Thanks again for the reply, and keep me posted. I'll do the same.
FWIW: each blow of the hammer to a wheel bearing is very detrimental to the life of the bearing. I'd recommend replacing the bearing.

I just did the rotors on mine this past month; I pried outward with good steady force and tapped gently between the studs. It took a little time but the came free w/out really whacking them. Striking them can mar the finish which leads to failure. If hit hard enough it makes divits in the surface and its just a matter time before they fail.

2006 Mazda 6s GS Hatchback, Lapis Blue | AJ 3.0 & AW6A-EL 6 Spd, >119,000

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