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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 11:59 AM
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There are various rustproofing methods, coatingsare the most common and they can be the "one time" application onesand the yearly oil type ones such as Krown and Rust-Check.

You need oxygen and humidity for corrosion to eatyour car away, all will corrode if those are present, it's just how fast ithappens. Isolating (protecting) the metal from these elements will drasticallyreduce the rate and the effectiveness will vary on how well the coating isapplied, the surface is prepared and of course, how well the coating ages.

Rubberized coatings are good as long as they donot crack (many do) and how well they are applied and I’ve found many examplesof poorly applied coatings. If you have a point of entry (water and oxygen)behind the coating, corrosion will spread rapidly behind it and you will mostlikely won't see it until it's too late.

Here is a good article I found about this:

I’ve lived in the tropics, right next to the seaand now I am in Canada, enjoying all the salt that is sprayed during Winter(insert sarcasm here) and IMO, I can assure you the worst you can do isnothing, even more if you keep your cars for 5 years or longer.

Washing your car is the bare minimum but it isalmost impossible to get to all those hidden spots in the underbody where thesalt and brine find their way into.

I’ve always used the rubberized coatings on newcars, I do believe the oil-type ones are better on used vehicles where there isalready some corrosion present.

I bought my 6 used and I was glad to find that itwas undercoated (rubberized type) when new. The floors and rocker panels aremint but due to a poor application (tech didn’t remove the liners to spray the rearwheel wells) I do have some corrosion in that area (was there when I bought it)which I constantly treat with the oil spray type.

2016-Current: 2006 Mazda 6 GT - V6 - Hatchback w/NAV

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2008-2015: 2004 Mazda 6 GS - I4

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