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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Jack Stand Location?

Hey guys, apologies if this has already been answered but I'm having a hard time figuring out where to use the jack stands on my 16' 6. I'm not sure if I need some sort of adapter for the pinch welds to prevent deformity or if I can put them on those specified points with no issues. I'm also curious what the solution is for my jack not being able to reach the front jacking point since its so far back....
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 03:23 PM
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Options:

1. Use ramps to get clearance, jack from the center point with a piece of 2x6 or hard rubber as a load spreader, place stands on the pinch points marked (load spreaders also are a good idea for those; a cut hockey puck or wood works fine)

2. Jack at the pinch weld (using a cut hockey puck as a load spreader) and put the stands under the heavy cast iron brackets at the rear of each control arm. This obviously only works if you're not doing suspension work and don't need to remove those bracket caps....

#1 is the "official" point. I use #2 for routine things like tire rotations but obviously for suspension work #1 is the way to go.

BTW the situation gets even more interesting for the rear -- take a look at the jack point in the center (crawl under the car) and you'll see what I mean.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ok sounds good, so for the load spreading with the jack stands you would want more than just rubber caps? Something heftier to balance the pinch weld on?

Also, I went to review the jacking points again and I found this:

This is directly in front of the pinch weld area and I was curious if thats normal for the metal frame to look like that and why its so deformed? I purchased this car from a dealership and I'm just trying to find any other surprises they might have left me..thanks for the help
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyguy View Post
Ok sounds good, so for the load spreading with the jack stands you would want more than just rubber caps? Something heftier to balance the pinch weld on?

Also, I went to review the jacking points again and I found this:

This is directly in front of the pinch weld area and I was curious if thats normal for the metal frame to look like that and why its so deformed? I purchased this car from a dealership and I'm just trying to find any other surprises they might have left me..thanks for the help
That looks way too much deformed. I have jacked up from the pinch welds both with and w/o puck as well as scissor jack. Scissor jack made minor deformation, very light not even close to what I see in your pics. Actually you can both jack up and put the stand under the pinch weld but you have to be VERY CAREFUL and PRECISE in their placements because they literally touch each other at the base. if you are a little off you could damage the area beyond the pinch weld. I wish Mazda had extended the pinch welds by another 4 inches. Occasionally I go with putting the stand under the control arm bushing but that means for a few seconds you are sticking your arm under the car while it is only supported by the jack, don't like that either.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 07:06 PM
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That looks pretty BADLY hosed. I've had my '15 for a long time now and it's been on the stands a bunch of times for tire rotations (many) and brakes (once) and I've yet to do ANY damage to the pinch welds. Zip, zero, nada -- and I usually jack it there because unless I'm working on the suspension the control arm bushing rear mount is both a direct connection to the subframe and is plenty strong itself. I do have a pair of hard rubber covers for my stands to keep from marring the steel caps and provide a bit of load-spreading but they're not really necessary when using stands on those brackets. If you reach in through the tire well you're not much-exposed if something bad happens while you're placing the stand. Just keep in mind what part of the vehicle is where and that your arm doing the reaching will be clear IF the jack loses pressure or similar.

I use a hockey-puck style spreader for the jack on the pinch welds so the load is taken evenly, and use a slotted spreader cover (which goes on the top of the jackstand) when using the stands there. Never damaged the pinch area on this car or my Jetta doing that. The cup on a floor jack itself, without some sort of load-spreader, puts ALL of the load on two little points where contact is made and that's just begging for trouble. The scissor jack is another matter; if you need to use it on the side of the road then you do, and if it chews things up it does -- I've yet to need to use it on either vehicle as of this point.

While it's theoretically possible to put the stand and jack on the same pinch weld area it's pushing your luck further than I care to; the immediate area of the weld is strong but the rest... not so much. If I need the suspension free for work I drive up onto either a board or my ramps to get enough clearance to work the jack handle for the center jacking strong-point.

Last edited by tickerguy; 08-24-2018 at 07:10 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
That looks pretty BADLY hosed. I've had my '15 for a long time now and it's been on the stands a bunch of times for tire rotations (many) and brakes (once) and I've yet to do ANY damage to the pinch welds. Zip, zero, nada -- and I usually jack it there because unless I'm working on the suspension the control arm bushing rear mount is both a direct connection to the subframe and is plenty strong itself. I do have a pair of hard rubber covers for my stands to keep from marring the steel caps and provide a bit of load-spreading but they're not really necessary when using stands on those brackets. If you reach in through the tire well you're not much-exposed if something bad happens while you're placing the stand. Just keep in mind what part of the vehicle is where and that your arm doing the reaching will be clear IF the jack loses pressure or similar.

I use a hockey-puck style spreader for the jack on the pinch welds so the load is taken evenly, and use a slotted spreader cover (which goes on the top of the jackstand) when using the stands there. Never damaged the pinch area on this car or my Jetta doing that. The cup on a floor jack itself, without some sort of load-spreader, puts ALL of the load on two little points where contact is made and that's just begging for trouble. The scissor jack is another matter; if you need to use it on the side of the road then you do, and if it chews things up it does -- I've yet to need to use it on either vehicle as of this point.

While it's theoretically possible to put the stand and jack on the same pinch weld area it's pushing your luck further than I care to; the immediate area of the weld is strong but the rest... not so much. If I need the suspension free for work I drive up onto either a board or my ramps to get enough clearance to work the jack handle for the center jacking strong-point.
So I guess I'm confused if those pictures are considered part of the pinch weld and what would have even caused that damage? I do want to get it fixed even if cosmetic so I would assume any body shop could help? I just need to know if it should be straight or somewhat curved or something like that. Supposedly the dealership did all the maintenance on my 6 as a lease vehicle

I will look into some hockey pucks or something for the jack stands. I have rhino ramps and used those sucessfully to change the oil, but its good info to know for more serious work.

Speaking of which, I know you were a believer of changing the trans fluid (even on manual transmissions) at an earlier interval than 100k with redline. Is that something I can do with ramps, or do I need to level the car in some sort of way? Trying to make sure I don't overfill or underfill and I'm unsure on the qty for that fluid...
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I have a pair of "pinch weld adapters/covers" for my jackstands. They have a notch in them and are hard rubber; they spread the load out nicely, and work fine.

You can certainly do the gearbox on the ramps (I do). It's *best* to do it completely level but you can get close enough with a couple of offset 2x6s for the rear tires so the rears are close (they won't be exact) to the front elevation. If you want to be exact you can put the front on ramps, jack the rear and put the rear on stands -- but I don't and have never had a problem.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
That looks pretty BADLY hosed. I've had my '15 for a long time now and it's been on the stands a bunch of times for tire rotations (many) and brakes (once) and I've yet to do ANY damage to the pinch welds. Zip, zero, nada -- and I usually jack it there because unless I'm working on the suspension the control arm bushing rear mount is both a direct connection to the subframe and is plenty strong itself. I do have a pair of hard rubber covers for my stands to keep from marring the steel caps and provide a bit of load-spreading but they're not really necessary when using stands on those brackets. If you reach in through the tire well you're not much-exposed if something bad happens while you're placing the stand. Just keep in mind what part of the vehicle is where and that your arm doing the reaching will be clear IF the jack loses pressure or similar.

I use a hockey-puck style spreader for the jack on the pinch welds so the load is taken evenly, and use a slotted spreader cover (which goes on the top of the jackstand) when using the stands there. Never damaged the pinch area on this car or my Jetta doing that. The cup on a floor jack itself, without some sort of load-spreader, puts ALL of the load on two little points where contact is made and that's just begging for trouble. The scissor jack is another matter; if you need to use it on the side of the road then you do, and if it chews things up it does -- I've yet to need to use it on either vehicle as of this point.

While it's theoretically possible to put the stand and jack on the same pinch weld area it's pushing your luck further than I care to; the immediate area of the weld is strong but the rest... not so much. If I need the suspension free for work I drive up onto either a board or my ramps to get enough clearance to work the jack handle for the center jacking strong-point.
So I guess I'm confused if those pictures are considered part of the pinch weld and what would have even caused that damage? I do want to get it fixed even if cosmetic so I would assume any body shop could help? I just need to know if it should be straight or somewhat curved or something like that. Supposedly the dealership did all the maintenance on my 6 as a lease vehicle

I will look into some hockey pucks or something for the jack stands. I have rhino ramps and used those sucessfully to change the oil, but its good info to know for more serious work.

Speaking of which, I know you were a believer of changing the trans fluid (even on manual transmissions) at an earlier interval than 100k with redline. Is that something I can do with ramps, or do I need to level the car in some sort of way? Trying to make sure I don't overfill or underfill and I'm unsure on the qty for that fluid...
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