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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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BC coilovers and 20" Niche Surge wheels installed

I picked up my new-to-me 2014 Sport w/6 speed manual Friday the 28th and I finally had time to install some goodies this past weekend. I'd already ordered wheels, hub rings, coilovers, etc. before I even picked up the car and parts started arriving over the past few days. My MV Tuning body kit came in this weekend as well so hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can get it painted and installed.

Here's how it began the weekend:



Goodies to go on:



Much to my dismay, the camber adjustment on the BC's are completely inaccessible while on the car:



Of course, BC can't do anything about the tiny strut tower opening on the Mazda but man that was a let down. I can't fathom the hassle of trying to dial in the camber by continually having to take the entire coilover assembly off and back on - especially since the BC lower strut bolt holes are oblong and you could have a fairly wide variance in camber just from variances in install of the 2 lower bolts on each assembly between each uninstall/install.

This might give some of you a heart attack but my brother and I decided to remedy that with some quick welding and a 3 1/4" hole saw. Of course a hole saw requires a center guide bit and you can't exactly use a guide bit if there's a big hole in the middle. I welded in some metal to allow me to mark dead center and use that for material for my center guide bit:



The strut towers are actually double layered on top so once you make it through the upper layer, these pop off and you need to do the same on the underneath layer. Tops off:



Same process on the lower section. You can see where it jumped on me and scratched the top of the tower - the exact thing I was trying to be careful to avoid. Oh well, just a tad more paint touch up to do:



All through:



I did some very quick paint touch up to the opening here (this is actually the driver side vs the passenger side on all my other pictures, but same deal). I need to file the very upper edge a little bit and do a final paint touch up, but all said and done I really don't think anybody would ever be able to tell these openings aren't factory unless they knew better:



All that said - I was a little disappointed that the front coilover brake hose brackets are too small for the factory brake hose to clip into. The opening is too small and you can't get the hose clipped into it. I'll have to open them up with a file or something. What's up with that? Anybody else have that issue? For now I just have them zip tied in there.

Also, I originally bought some 15mm spacers plus extended studs for the rear but now I'm thinking I might not even use them. I'm rubbing a tad on all 4 fenders right now and don't really want to have to bother rolling the rears.

Final outcome. My brother is taking it for an alignment for me today:

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 03:02 PM
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Looks clean! You definitely wouldn't want 15mm spacers in the rear without at least 10mm in the front. What is your offset and tire size?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm not sure I'm gonna run any spacers at this point. I kind of preemptively ordered the spacers for the rear based on what I was researching here from some of the other setups that you guys have posted here. I'll have to measure the clearance after alignment but my eye-o-meter doesn't seem like I can go 15 in the back even if I wanted to unless I wanted roll the fenders and keep some fairly negative camber. But the measuring tape will be the ultimate decider so I'll check when I get some free time after getting the car back.

My wheels are 20x8.5" with a 35mm offset and tires are 245/30/20. It seems like a lot of guys here go with a 235 tire but I decided on the 245's to be closer on the speedo (albeit by the slimmest margin over the 235) and for aesthetic reasons.

What is everybody here doing for rear camber adjustment? Do we have any options for adjustable arms?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 09:55 AM
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I think these might be the camber arms that you'll want:

HARDRACE GLOBAL - REAR CAMBER KIT?7696

I know @ballsy and @Zeffer have similar setups and have been searching around for a camber solution for the rear.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkey Grundle View Post
I think these might be the camber arms that you'll want:

HARDRACE GLOBAL - REAR CAMBER KIT?7696

I know @ballsy and @Zeffer have similar setups and have been searching around for a camber solution for the rear.
I was searching around this morning and although I know that CorkSport and James Barone Racing make adjustable rear arms I have not been interested in those because they both use heim joints which I do not want. I've been there/done that on other cars with various heim joint parts - adjustable rear arms/sway bar end links/etc. and they are invariably noisy.

I wanted some camber arms for the Mazda with OE style bushings and decided to buy some Megan Racing ones this morning (# MRS-MZ-0211).

What's funny is the ones in your link are literally the same ones I bought but have the HR logo on them instead of the Megan Racing logo. I got the Megan ones for $160 shipped. I can't find the HR ones for sale anywhere online so I'm not sure if I got the better deal with Megan or not lol.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 11:10 AM
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I've been on BCR coils for a while now and getting the height I want has been a nightmare. The front has no finger clearance from fender to tire and that's about as low as one can safely go without rubbing issues. And when you rub, you'll rub the fender paint, fender liner on the outside and fender liner up top and all around. Liners have to come out or be cut out, basically.

Camber in the back tucks super hard when you're dumped, and only accentuates the gap the rear tires have to the fender (due to thinner track width). I'm trying to get my rear height sorted out right (spring issues) so I can be even on all four.

As far as rear camber goes, the three or four solutions don't look to be enough to add the positive camber we need. I have JBR arms that do not add enough positive camber to be acceptable without getting dangerous. I've been considering custom control arms just so I can get the angles right back there. The lower you go in the rear, the more camber you'll see as the top of the tire leans inward.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james92se View Post
Yeah, I'm not sure I'm gonna run any spacers at this point. I kind of preemptively ordered the spacers for the rear based on what I was researching here from some of the other setups that you guys have posted here. I'll have to measure the clearance after alignment but my eye-o-meter doesn't seem like I can go 15 in the back even if I wanted to unless I wanted roll the fenders and keep some fairly negative camber. But the measuring tape will be the ultimate decider so I'll check when I get some free time after getting the car back.

My wheels are 20x8.5" with a 35mm offset and tires are 245/30/20. It seems like a lot of guys here go with a 235 tire but I decided on the 245's to be closer on the speedo (albeit by the slimmest margin over the 235) and for aesthetic reasons.

What is everybody here doing for rear camber adjustment? Do we have any options for adjustable arms?


Looking good! I like the wheels (go figure haha). your wheel with is same as me, but your offset is 3mm less (I'm at 32). 245 tires definitely poke in the front with that width and offset. My wheels are 19" and I had all four fenders rolled and slightly pulled to allow my 235/40/19 tires (was already a slight rub in front taking corners with stretched 225 tires on...). I really wanted 245 in rears, 235 in front but this is my daily driver and rotating tires is a must for me. My rear camber is at -2.2 and I want to lower about another 1/2" so I am definitely needing rear camber arms (thanks @Donkey Grundle for the heads up) but as other's have said, I do not like the limited reviews on the JBR's/CS's. Let me know what you think of those MR ones you just bought, if you give the thumbs up I will definitely follow suit!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james92se View Post
I was searching around this morning and although I know that CorkSport and James Barone Racing make adjustable rear arms I have not been interested in those because they both use heim joints which I do not want. I've been there/done that on other cars with various heim joint parts - adjustable rear arms/sway bar end links/etc. and they are invariably noisy.

I wanted some camber arms for the Mazda with OE style bushings and decided to buy some Megan Racing ones this morning (# MRS-MZ-0211).

What's funny is the ones in your link are literally the same ones I bought but have the HR logo on them instead of the Megan Racing logo. I got the Megan ones for $160 shipped. I can't find the HR ones for sale anywhere online so I'm not sure if I got the better deal with Megan or not lol.
Those Megan's are listed at $206 from what I see. Where did you find them for 160?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeffer View Post
I've been on BCR coils for a while now and getting the height I want has been a nightmare. The front has no finger clearance from fender to tire and that's about as low as one can safely go without rubbing issues. And when you rub, you'll rub the fender paint, fender liner on the outside and fender liner up top and all around. Liners have to come out or be cut out, basically.

Camber in the back tucks super hard when you're dumped, and only accentuates the gap the rear tires have to the fender (due to thinner track width). I'm trying to get my rear height sorted out right (spring issues) so I can be even on all four.

As far as rear camber goes, the three or four solutions don't look to be enough to add the positive camber we need. I have JBR arms that do not add enough positive camber to be acceptable without getting dangerous. I've been considering custom control arms just so I can get the angles right back there. The lower you go in the rear, the more camber you'll see as the top of the tire leans inward.
I found my adjustment to be super easy to get where I wanted. Initially, I just installed everything the way it came from the factory - I didn't touch the preload or anything or the rear spring perch collars. I found this to leave the front about stock height and the rear was pretty darn low. Sunday afternoon I ended up lowering the front and raising the rear and I found it easy to adjust. I did one side how I wanted and then measured distance between 2b and 2c and just duplicated it the other side.



It's interesting that X height adjustment on the coilover strut assembly height did not result in an immediate equal drop on the ground. For example, I took over 3/4" out of the strut assembly height and on the ground it resulted in less than 1/2" drop. Though of course, I guess if I waited a few days in between it's possible the car would've settled 1/4" or more.

Unless I remove my lower locking ring, I only have 1/2" further I can drop in the front and that's surprising since I wouldn't say I'm anywhere near "slammed" currently. I guess I just assumed that bottoming out the coilovers would be really darn slammed and I wouldn't say that I'd be really darn slammed at another 1/2" drop. Not that I care to drop any further though.

I adjusted my firmness to 13 clicks from "soft" all around and this results in a nice ride. Of course, it's still on 20's now and I can definitely feel ridges and whatnot in the road - but the actual ride is surprisingly good.

You confirmed my suspicions about the fronts - because the very few times I rub on the front (from bigger bumps/dips now with my softer shock/strut settings) it definitely sounds like it's not actual fender it's hitting but rather the fender liner. I might wind up going a tad bit firmer to keep that from happening.

When you say the JBR arms don't allow enough camber correction without being dangerous what do you mean exactly? It seems to me like all these arms should very easily be able to add 2 degrees of correction (which if it doesn't zero your camber out, definitely gets you close). Is that not the case?

If it's not the case, why can't you just get your own heim joints with longer threaded rod and add them to the JBR arms and give yourself as much positive correction as you need?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ballsy View Post
Looking good! I like the wheels (go figure haha). your wheel with is same as me, but your offset is 3mm less (I'm at 32). 245 tires definitely poke in the front with that width and offset. My wheels are 19" and I had all four fenders rolled and slightly pulled to allow my 235/40/19 tires (was already a slight rub in front taking corners with stretched 225 tires on...). I really wanted 245 in rears, 235 in front but this is my daily driver and rotating tires is a must for me. My rear camber is at -2.2 and I want to lower about another 1/2" so I am definitely needing rear camber arms (thanks @Donkey Grundle for the heads up) but as other's have said, I do not like the limited reviews on the JBR's/CS's. Let me know what you think of those MR ones you just bought, if you give the thumbs up I will definitely follow suit!
I initially wanted to go with a staggered wheel/tire setup myself. I wanted to go with 10" wide wheels in the back since the deeper wheels look much better. But I decided to go square all the way around specifically so that I could rotate normally as this is meant to be my "nice" normal car

My brother had the car aligned and my rear camber is at -2.1 on the driver side and -1.9 on the passenger side. Surprisingly this is still technically in spec and thankfully the tech was able to get the toe in good shape.

I still don't want my rear camber that negative hence my search for the arms. I realize there is a whole trove of internet racers who rant about how negative camber doesn't cause inner tire wear, that it is actually toe instead but personally I do not buy that. Yes, of course whacked out toe will roast your tires fast. But I refuse to believe that negative camber even with perfect toe will not cause premature inner tire wear on low-profile tires.

Beyond that, I mainly just hate the aesthetics of negative camber. Much to my chagrin, extremely negative camber is somehow these days aesthetically desirable but not to me. I prefer my camber zeroed out all the way around or as close to it as I can get. Hopefully these MR arms will get me pretty close to zeroed out on the rear - I would be surprised if they don't. I definitely don't want to pull the rear fenders but I will roll the inner lip if I need to and I'm assuming I will need to if I can get the rears zeroed out.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballsy View Post
Those Megan's are listed at $206 from what I see. Where did you find them for 160?
I'm a savvy shopper lol.

https://thmotorsports.com/megan-raci...i-2284868.aspx

Add coupon code "threeoffthm2temp" at checkout for an extra 3% off. My total came to $160.16 total shipped.
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