I've been on BCR coils for a while now and getting the height I want has been a nightmare. The front has no finger clearance from fender to tire and that's about as low as one can safely go without rubbing issues. And when you rub, you'll rub the fender paint, fender liner on the outside and fender liner up top and all around. Liners have to come out or be cut out, basically.
Camber in the back tucks super hard when you're dumped, and only accentuates the gap the rear tires have to the fender (due to thinner track width). I'm trying to get my rear height sorted out right (spring issues) so I can be even on all four.
As far as rear camber goes, the three or four solutions don't look to be enough to add the positive camber we need. I have JBR arms that do not add enough positive camber to be acceptable without getting dangerous. I've been considering custom control arms just so I can get the angles right back there. The lower you go in the rear, the more camber you'll see as the top of the tire leans inward.
I found my adjustment to be super easy to get where I wanted. Initially, I just installed everything the way it came from the factory - I didn't touch the preload or anything or the rear spring perch collars. I found this to leave the front about stock height and the rear was pretty darn low. Sunday afternoon I ended up lowering the front and raising the rear and I found it easy to adjust. I did one side how I wanted and then measured distance between 2b and 2c and just duplicated it the other side.
It's interesting that X height adjustment on the coilover strut assembly height did not result in an immediate equal drop on the ground. For example, I took over 3/4" out of the strut assembly height and on the ground it resulted in less than 1/2" drop. Though of course, I guess if I waited a few days in between it's possible the car would've settled 1/4" or more.
Unless I remove my lower locking ring, I only have 1/2" further I can drop in the front and that's surprising since I wouldn't say I'm anywhere near "slammed" currently. I guess I just assumed that bottoming out the coilovers would be really darn slammed and I wouldn't say that I'd be really darn slammed at another 1/2" drop. Not that I care to drop any further though.
I adjusted my firmness to 13 clicks from "soft" all around and this results in a nice ride. Of course, it's still on 20's now and I can definitely feel ridges and whatnot in the road - but the actual ride is surprisingly good.
You confirmed my suspicions about the fronts - because the very few times I rub on the front (from bigger bumps/dips now with my softer shock/strut settings) it definitely sounds like it's not actual fender it's hitting but rather the fender liner. I might wind up going a tad bit firmer to keep that from happening.
When you say the JBR arms don't allow enough camber correction without being dangerous what do you mean exactly? It seems to me like all these arms should very easily be able to add 2 degrees of correction (which if it doesn't zero your camber out, definitely gets you close). Is that not the case?
If it's not the case, why can't you just get your own heim joints with longer threaded rod and add them to the JBR arms and give yourself as much positive correction as you need?
Looking good! I like the wheels (go figure haha). your wheel with is same as me, but your offset is 3mm less (I'm at 32). 245 tires definitely poke in the front with that width and offset. My wheels are 19" and I had all four fenders rolled and slightly pulled to allow my 235/40/19 tires (was already a slight rub in front taking corners with stretched 225 tires on...). I really wanted 245 in rears, 235 in front but this is my daily driver and rotating tires is a must for me. My rear camber is at -2.2 and I want to lower about another 1/2" so I am definitely needing rear camber arms (thanks @Donkey Grundle
for the heads up) but as other's have said, I do not like the limited reviews on the JBR's/CS's. Let me know what you think of those MR ones you just bought, if you give the thumbs up I will definitely follow suit!
I initially wanted to go with a staggered wheel/tire setup myself. I wanted to go with 10" wide wheels in the back since the deeper wheels look much better. But I decided to go square all the way around specifically so that I could rotate normally as this is meant to be my "nice" normal car
My brother had the car aligned and my rear camber is at -2.1 on the driver side and -1.9 on the passenger side. Surprisingly this is still technically in spec and thankfully the tech was able to get the toe in good shape.
I still don't want my rear camber that negative hence my search for the arms. I realize there is a whole trove of internet racers who rant about how negative camber doesn't cause inner tire wear, that it is actually toe instead but personally I do not buy that. Yes, of course whacked out toe will roast your tires fast. But I refuse to believe that negative camber even with perfect toe will not cause premature inner tire wear on low-profile tires.
Beyond that, I mainly just hate the aesthetics of negative camber. Much to my chagrin, extremely negative camber is somehow these days aesthetically desirable but not to me. I prefer my camber zeroed out all the way around or as close to it as I can get. Hopefully these MR arms will get me pretty close to zeroed out on the rear - I would be surprised if they don't. I definitely don't want to pull the rear fenders but I will roll the inner lip if I need to and I'm assuming I will need to if I can get the rears zeroed out.