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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Stock Stereo Amp & Speaker Integration

I have the I-Sport AT (non Bose) system. I wanted to upgrade it but retain the stock head unit. In the process I wanted to install some mat for sound proofing as the 6 has quite a bit of noise, mainly wind and road.
Amps are the 4 ch. Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4

Precision Power PPI P900.4 Phantom 4-Channel Amplifier
And a mono Alpine MRP-M350 from my last car.
Rear speakers: Precision Power PP-A2.65C. These are unique since you can run them as coax or separates. I opted for co-ax initially as I didn't want to mess up the front sound stage too much but I may try the tweeters higher later. Used the Audio Control LC7I which uses the stock speaker leads and splits into front, rear and sub RCA outputs. Slick unit with individual level controls for all 3 and adjustable accu-bass which contours the low freq. roll off. This is mounted above the glove box. Easy to adjust as the GB comes out in 10 seconds with no tools. I did have to trim the to corner right side wall of the GB.





Stock rear speaker:



MDF wood rings for speaker mounts over sound mat. I used the excess trimmings inside the panel behind the speaker. While driving with the inner panel off I found the thin plastic hole cover in the upper left allows a surprising amount of road noise in before covering it. There was room to mount the cross over under the inner panel above and right of the speaker.



Front Speakers: Precision Power PPI P.65C3 3 way front speakers, mids in the tweeter dash location and AMT tweeters on the A pillars.
They honestly do sound this good:
PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P.65C3 Component Speaker Review



The front doors have quite a bit of insulation in the inner panel, the rear doors had none. You can't flush mount in the front even with MDF rings as the sliding door guide comes in right behind the speaker when you close the door. I gutted the stockers and screwed through the plastic enclosure into a MDF ring. Crossovers go up behind the kick panels on each side (front).



Midrange's in the stock tweeter location:



The AMT ribbon tweeters go high in the A pillars:



I also matted the A - B and C pillars as there is nothing under the plastic trim but sheet metal and holes to the outer skin. Of course taking care around the air curtain bags in the A & C pillars. I was started by doing one side and had to drive the car, I could tell the difference as the non-matted side was louder.







I used some good 6 gages pure copper power leads to the trunk:



Mounted the two amps to a covered board. I used rubber hose for spacers over the trunk springs for a bit of vibe / road isolation. Also installed a SPST switch for the sub amp remote on lead in case I need the space and pull the sub. The small white spacers help keep the amps cool allowing air circulation all around.



I kept it small and simple with a JBL GTO 1014 - 10" in a sealed box.



All said the car was good to work with. The large holes where the seat release cables come into the trunk are fantastic for routing / stashing excess RCA's and wiring.

Most of the work was the sound proofing and a bit of splicing where the harness adapters did not have leads for the stock unit. The only alterations were some trimming of the sill plates underneath to make room for the power cables and RCA's and a bit on the glove box corner. None of which are visible. I wanted to have this done before winter and just started it when in I broke my collar bone mountain biking late fall.

Yes, I could have gone after market on the head unit but I wanted to retain the camera, steering wheel controls and stock USB / Aux. locations.
The Blue tooth works fine with my phone too. Im actually very impressed with how well this set up sounds. I need to do some more tuning but so far it's clean, LOUD and has enough tight bass.

Last edited by Tundra Dweller; 01-31-2015 at 10:23 AM.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 09:25 PM
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Make REAL sure that A-pillar mount is secure. If the airbag deploys and it's not you're going to eat the pillar cover, the speaker or both.

Note that the common design in modern cars is used on the "6" with the "bitch clip" that retains the A-pillar cover in the event of an airbag deployment. That is, the clip partially detaches but retains the A-pillar cover at the top; the bag deploys around it and deforms the cover in the process but it does NOT detach. You have to make very sure you do not interfere with that dynamic or the detonation of the bag inflator has good odds of impelling that driver right into your face.

While it is technically possible to reuse those clips I would not do so; they are intended as one-time use and their integrity is very much an essential element in the event the airbag goes off in that pillar. At $6 or so each at the dealer it's poor economy to attempt re-using them rather than replacing them any time they're disturbed.

It's interesting that you found material sound intrusion through the A, B and C pillar covers. I didn't drive mine with the covers off; I may have to do that as while doing the doors generally has made a massive difference in terms of sound intrusion if I can get another decibel or so out of the pillars it would be worth it.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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I hear you on the clips and thanks for the heads up. As soon as I pulled the A covers I knew what they were for and they were a PITA to dis-engage. I am due my 30,000 service soon and will order the replacement clips and re-apply. The tweeters use a large plastic nut that screws onto the threaded body from behind the panel so they are not going anywhere. The tweeter location, about 7.00" from the top edge, is about the only place you can install them. Since they are at ear level it worked out.
I was amazed at the separation of sound spreading out the three drivers that much.

I did not drive it with the A's and B's removed, only the rear door inner panel and only because I didn't finish the work before I needed the car. At the time my shoulder would only allow so much work. I was still surprised that there was nothing under those covers when I pulled them for wiring.

Last edited by Tundra Dweller; 01-31-2015 at 10:18 AM.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 02:10 PM
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There is rarely anything there on modern vehicles -- there's not on my Jetta either, and I've had all the pillars off along with a bunch of other things as I had to drop the headliner a couple of years ago. Same basic design there but the clips were metal instead of the tethered plastic design used by Mazda, and again, while it is POSSIBLE to re-use them it's a really bad idea for the same reason.

On the "B" and "C" pillars on the Jetta the covers were easily removed without damaging anything but that car has the side curtain airbags in the overhead at the edge of the headliner with the inflators in the overhead at the rear; it essentially blows the headliner junction loose with the side rails of the roof when they deploy. This probably destroys the headliner backing but it's not THAT expensive, and in addition it's large and anchored all around the vehicle so it won't become a projectile.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-07-2015, 11:54 AM
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great post w/ the pics - i am planning to replace door speakers and put some dynamat/fatmat in the doors. the a, b, c pillars sound like a good idea too.


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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 08:31 PM
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Thanks for the informative post and pics. I'm considering a 2016 6 with non-Bose system. How did you tap into the stock head unit's signal? I heard the non-Bose system does not have an external amplifier, is that true? Is there a clean, full-range signal from the stock HU to tap into?
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tundra Dweller View Post
I have the I-Sport AT (non Bose) system. I wanted to upgrade it but retain the stock head unit. In the process I wanted to install some mat for sound proofing as the 6 has quite a bit of noise, mainly wind and road.
Amps are the 4 ch. Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4

Precision Power PPI P900.4 Phantom 4-Channel Amplifier
And a mono Alpine MRP-M350 from my last car.
Rear speakers: Precision Power PP-A2.65C. These are unique since you can run them as coax or separates. I opted for co-ax initially as I didn't want to mess up the front sound stage too much but I may try the tweeters higher later. Used the Audio Control LC7I which uses the stock speaker leads and splits into front, rear and sub RCA outputs. Slick unit with individual level controls for all 3 and adjustable accu-bass which contours the low freq. roll off. This is mounted above the glove box. Easy to adjust as the GB comes out in 10 seconds with no tools. I did have to trim the to corner right side wall of the GB.





Stock rear speaker:



MDF wood rings for speaker mounts over sound mat. I used the excess trimmings inside the panel behind the speaker. While driving with the inner panel off I found the thin plastic hole cover in the upper left allows a surprising amount of road noise in before covering it. There was room to mount the cross over under the inner panel above and right of the speaker.



Front Speakers: Precision Power PPI P.65C3 3 way front speakers, mids in the tweeter dash location and AMT tweeters on the A pillars.
They honestly do sound this good:
PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Precision Power P.65C3 Component Speaker Review



The front doors have quite a bit of insulation in the inner panel, the rear doors had none. You can't flush mount in the front even with MDF rings as the sliding door guide comes in right behind the speaker when you close the door. I gutted the stockers and screwed through the plastic enclosure into a MDF ring. Crossovers go up behind the kick panels on each side (front).



Midrange's in the stock tweeter location:



The AMT ribbon tweeters go high in the A pillars:



I also matted the A - B and C pillars as there is nothing under the plastic trim but sheet metal and holes to the outer skin. Of course taking care around the air curtain bags in the A & C pillars. I was started by doing one side and had to drive the car, I could tell the difference as the non-matted side was louder.







I used some good 6 gages pure copper power leads to the trunk:



Mounted the two amps to a covered board. I used rubber hose for spacers over the trunk springs for a bit of vibe / road isolation. Also installed a SPST switch for the sub amp remote on lead in case I need the space and pull the sub. The small white spacers help keep the amps cool allowing air circulation all around.



I kept it small and simple with a JBL GTO 1014 - 10" in a sealed box.



All said the car was good to work with. The large holes where the seat release cables come into the trunk are fantastic for routing / stashing excess RCA's and wiring.

Most of the work was the sound proofing and a bit of splicing where the harness adapters did not have leads for the stock unit. The only alterations were some trimming of the sill plates underneath to make room for the power cables and RCA's and a bit on the glove box corner. None of which are visible. I wanted to have this done before winter and just started it when in I broke my collar bone mountain biking late fall.

Yes, I could have gone after market on the head unit but I wanted to retain the camera, steering wheel controls and stock USB / Aux. locations.
The Blue tooth works fine with my phone too. Im actually very impressed with how well this set up sounds. I need to do some more tuning but so far it's clean, LOUD and has enough tight bass.
Wow nice work! Bet it sounds incredible.

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsun_g View Post
Thanks for the informative post and pics. I'm considering a 2016 6 with non-Bose system. How did you tap into the stock head unit's signal? I heard the non-Bose system does not have an external amplifier, is that true? Is there a clean, full-range signal from the stock HU to tap into?
Sorry for the long delayed reply. I bought adapter plugs that tap into the back of the stock head unit and into the wire harness plug that goes into the OEM head unit. There was still a few wires I had to solder. Basically using speaker line outs to the LC7i processor. There are higher end processors that allow tone control and some are auto tune. I wanted to keep the whole package under $1000.
The Precision Power 3 ways have the most natural sound I've heard in car stereo. My musical tastes are varied, Opeth, Clutch, Vivaldi. I have since added the Audio Control sub level remote control.
ACR-1 - AudioControl
45 min., plug and play install.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 12:03 PM
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Awesome work! Thanks for taking the time to take pics.
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 01:55 PM
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Also impressed!
One question I had is whether you can add 2 ohm speakers and amplifier to the head unit. I noticed that the Precision Power speakers were 4 ohm and I would consider them, too.
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