Stock Stereo Amp & Speaker Integration - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-22-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mr.Mojo View Post
Also impressed!
One question I had is whether you can add 2 ohm speakers and amplifier to the head unit. I noticed that the Precision Power speakers were 4 ohm and I would consider them, too.
I would not run 2 ohm to the stock system. Off the amp that should be fine if its rated for that impedance.
I have a friend that has a set of the PP 3 ways he is selling and never installed in his VW. Let me know if you are interested. I couldn't be happier with the set up. I keep the right rear seat back cracked open to let more bass in. It's fantastic to switch from mp3s on a CD to HD FM to USB to Pandora. I never get bored 😀
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-02-2015, 08:56 PM
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One last question: (and it may be too late for an answer since everything had been put back)
Do you know if a 4" midrange speaker would fit where you put the 3.5" one?
I'm asking as some 3 way speaker sets, such as Focal, come with a 4" midrange.
Thanks again for any help on this.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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I should still have the template or at least the OD of the midrange.
I will look tomorrow and post.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Mojo View Post
One last question: (and it may be too late for an answer since everything had been put back)
Do you know if a 4" midrange speaker would fit where you put the 3.5" one?
I'm asking as some 3 way speaker sets, such as Focal, come with a 4" midrange.
Thanks again for any help on this.
Here's a pic showing all speaker dimensions and depths. They are shown with the rubber grills that wrap around the frame which I didn't use on all speakers.
The area on the dash where the stock speakers were has additional room towards the A pillars where the Bose tweeters would be mounted.
Tight to work on due the windshield. Good news is it's only plastic.
I used spring nuts to retain the mids shown in the original pics.
I believe they would drop in or just need a slight trim.




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Last edited by Tundra Dweller; 11-07-2015 at 10:06 AM.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 07:56 PM
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Now that you have had some time to tweak your settings, how does it sound?

I noticed that some of the reviewers for the 3 way front Precision components mentioned that they set the lower cutoff at 80 for the best results (and had the subwoofer handle the lower frequency stuff).
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 09:54 PM
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I'm in the process of doing the same. '16 6 Touring manual. I tapped into the rear's leads at the mid-B pillar. But any suggestions for the front?
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-10-2015, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Mojo View Post
Now that you have had some time to tweak your settings, how does it sound?

I noticed that some of the reviewers for the 3 way front Precision components mentioned that they set the lower cutoff at 80 for the best results (and had the subwoofer handle the lower frequency stuff).
They sounds sublime. They sound even better now that they are well broken in. I have had high end systems before and am impressed how little these speakers color the music.
I can't recall where I set the woofer crossover at, I should check. They have excellent bass though.
The AMT tweeters are attenuated 3 dB. Which is mainly due to location, ear level. That will stay as set.
When I installed the rear coax's I left the tweeters mounted to the speaker instead of remotely mounting them higher. This was the right call as they fill in the rear nicely. All the "audiophiles" claimed installing rear speakers will ruin the front sound stage. Not the case although having the tweeters higher may affect staging.
I didn't believe I needed a remote sub control thinking I would set it and forget it. After many months of listening I found I was turning the volume down on bass heavy tracks so I added the controller and mounted it on the bottom lip of the dash above the accelerator pedal. Worth the $ and little effort to install.

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-10-2015, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kalibra1977 View Post
I'm in the process of doing the same. '16 6 Touring manual. I tapped into the rear's leads at the mid-B pillar. But any suggestions for the front?
I tapped into the harness before the molex plug in the front kick panels.
I spent a bit of time trying to bypass the stock wiring into the doors and in the end just used the molex wiring. For what it's worth I did run big speaker wires from the amps to the door jams and crossovers in the front.

Tough part of the front speakers was mounting the crossovers up and out of the way. They are not small like the rear coax X-overs. Having a busted collarbone didn't help

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-11-2015, 05:43 AM
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Tundra Dweller, can you give us some more information on where said harness is located (drivers and passengers side kick panels)? I haven't checked the drivers side yet but in my 2016, the passengers side entry point for the wiring from the door boot seems to be behind the CPU. Not certain whether the CPU needs to be moved/removed to access the wiring.

I am debating what to do for front speaker wiring for aftermarket amp and this sounds like the best option (other options being drill holes for new wiring and put in a 2nd boot and pull out HU assembly and tapping there).
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-11-2015, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jsun_g View Post
Tundra Dweller, can you give us some more information on where said harness is located (drivers and passengers side kick panels)? I haven't checked the drivers side yet but in my 2016, the passengers side entry point for the wiring from the door boot seems to be behind the CPU. Not certain whether the CPU needs to be moved/removed to access the wiring.

I am debating what to do for front speaker wiring for aftermarket amp and this sounds like the best option (other options being drill holes for new wiring and put in a 2nd boot and pull out HU assembly and tapping there).
If you follow where the wiring enters into the interior from the door you will find the harness. Here is a photo showing the crossover mounting under the right front kick panel. The harness exits the cabin under this. The two blue connectors in the upper right hand corner are the splice into the black/yellow - green / gray dashed wires going to the woofer in the door. I ran wiring down from the A pillar tweeter and dash mounted midrange to the crossover.
There is no ECU just the white heater blower box above it. Hope that helps.

BTW I have the jumpers in the passive crossover set at midrange not contoured - tweeter at -3dB. There are no adjustments for the woofer.



While I had it opened up here is the sill plate removed showing the RCA's from the LC7i going to the amps along with the remote on trigger wire. The speaker wires returning to the front crossovers. I used the driver side for the 6 gage copper cable from the battery to the amps.


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