I would like to start by saying that the process of changing the oil from the 1st gen ('03-'08) and the 2 gen for the V6 is no different. The oil filter is in a slightly different position, but the process of doing the oil change is the same. I am going to take you through this assuming you've never changed oil before. If you are more experienced, bear with me.
Items Needed:
15mm Socket with Socket Wrench or a Regular Wrench
Oil Filter Cap Wrench (76mm X 15 flute for the Mazda OEM filter) or Oil Filter Strap Wrench
Large Oil Catch Pan
Mazda Oil Filter (P/N: YF09-14-302A0) or any other filter that will be equivalent
6 Quarts of 5w20 Motor Oil
Ramps or Jack with Jack Stands
Funnel
Paper towels!
I am going to describe the process using the tools I prefer. Feel free to use the "or" portion of the above listed items needed.
Step 1:
Set the ramps centered to the front two tires. Roll the car up onto the flat portion of the ramps. Put the car in Park and set the emergency brake. Pop the hood, open the hood, and insert the support into its slot in the hood. For safety's sake, put a couple of pieces of wood behind your rear tires.
Step 2:
Remove the oil cap from the engine cover. I do this to allow air to flow in.
Step 3:
Lay a tarp under your car. You'll thank me later.
Get under the car and locate the drain plug. It is the bolt on the backside of the oil pan.
Carefully touch the bolt. If it is hot, give the car some more time to cool off. It is almost guaranteed that you will get some oil on you, and you do not want to be working with hot oil. Warm is ok for it helps with the flow, but be very careful.
Take out the center plug of the oil catch pan and pop open the tab on the pan.
Position the oil catch pan so that the end closest to you is just under the end of the oil pan of the car. The oil will flow out and away from the car's oil pan with the initial flow. Once the flow slows, it will drip down immediately below the oil pan edge, so you want the pan to catch both of these flows.
Put a 15mm socket onto a socket wrench. I used the 1/2" socket wrench for the very first oil change because the wrench is longer which will allow you to provide more torque and you will have more of a surface to hold onto.
Set the wrench so that the socket will move counterclockwise. Remember lefty loosey, right tighty.
Step 4:
Put the socket onto the oil drain plug and work your muscles.
The first oil change will be the toughest for the factory put in the oil plug and filter in with Herculian strength. You will eventually feel a budge. Rotate one or two times with the wrench, remove the wrench, and then loosen the plug with your hand. I usually put some pressure on the bolt with my pointer finger as I loosen with my other fingers. This gives you more control. You will eventually feel the bolt shift and some oil will start to drip down once you've reached the end of the threading. When ready, quickly remove the bolt and watch the oil spew out.
The flow will turn into a drip once the majority of the oil has left the car's oil pan. I let it drip for a bit. Once your patience has expired, replace the oil drain plug, setting the wrench for the socket to spin clockwise. Tighten as tight as you can.
Step 5:
Shift the oil catch pan to the oil filter area. You will want to center the pan under the filter.
Attach the oil filter cap wrench to a 3/4" socket wrench. For more leverage, I used an extension piece and attached the cap to that. Again, set the wrench so that the cap will rotate counterclockwise.
Attach the wrench to the bottom of the filter and with all of your might, try to get that filter rotating. The filter was far worse than the oil drain plug for me. That sucker was TIGHT. Grunting + muscles + digging your feet in the ground + sweat = a budge in the oil filter. Once that budge occurs, yell out "yes!" and continue rotating. Once the filter rotates smoothly, take off the wrench and finish the rotations with your hand.
Don't be surprised when in your rotations, if some oil flows out from the area on top of the filter. Yes, you still have some more rotations to do. Once the filter "breaks free", lower it(trying to keep it as vertical as possible) and then put the filter top side down, onto the oil catch pan. This will drain the filter of oil.
You might want to clean off your oily arm and hands now.
Step 6:
Grab the new filter and fill it with about 1/2 a quart of oil. Slowly do this for the filter will seem full after a small amount and then will settle. This cycle will repeat until it is full. With your finger, apply a small amount of oil on the black gasket.
Again, keeping the filter vertical, replace the filter onto the car. Hand tighten the filter going clockwise. After the gasket comes in contact with the mounting surface, the filter needs to be rotated another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. If you can do that by hand, awesome. If not,put the cap wrench on, set to turn clockwise, and tighten the filter.
Step 7:
Take your funnel and stick it in the engine hole. This $2 investment is worth it.
Put the remaining 5.5 quarts of oil in. Remove the funnel and replace the oil cap. Close the hood.
Step 8:
Remove the blocks behind your rear wheels and back your car off of the ramps. Take the car for a spin around the 'hood. Check for leaks and check the oil level with the dipstick when you return.
Step 9:
For your environmental karma, take the used motor oil to a site that will dispose of it. Most automotive shops will take the oil.
You have now performed your most likely first maintenance on your ride. Enjoy your new bond.
Items Needed:
15mm Socket with Socket Wrench or a Regular Wrench
Oil Filter Cap Wrench (76mm X 15 flute for the Mazda OEM filter) or Oil Filter Strap Wrench
Large Oil Catch Pan
Mazda Oil Filter (P/N: YF09-14-302A0) or any other filter that will be equivalent
6 Quarts of 5w20 Motor Oil
Ramps or Jack with Jack Stands
Funnel
Paper towels!
I am going to describe the process using the tools I prefer. Feel free to use the "or" portion of the above listed items needed.
Step 1:
Set the ramps centered to the front two tires. Roll the car up onto the flat portion of the ramps. Put the car in Park and set the emergency brake. Pop the hood, open the hood, and insert the support into its slot in the hood. For safety's sake, put a couple of pieces of wood behind your rear tires.
Step 2:
Remove the oil cap from the engine cover. I do this to allow air to flow in.
Step 3:
Lay a tarp under your car. You'll thank me later.
Get under the car and locate the drain plug. It is the bolt on the backside of the oil pan.
Carefully touch the bolt. If it is hot, give the car some more time to cool off. It is almost guaranteed that you will get some oil on you, and you do not want to be working with hot oil. Warm is ok for it helps with the flow, but be very careful.
Take out the center plug of the oil catch pan and pop open the tab on the pan.
Position the oil catch pan so that the end closest to you is just under the end of the oil pan of the car. The oil will flow out and away from the car's oil pan with the initial flow. Once the flow slows, it will drip down immediately below the oil pan edge, so you want the pan to catch both of these flows.
Put a 15mm socket onto a socket wrench. I used the 1/2" socket wrench for the very first oil change because the wrench is longer which will allow you to provide more torque and you will have more of a surface to hold onto.
Set the wrench so that the socket will move counterclockwise. Remember lefty loosey, right tighty.
Step 4:
Put the socket onto the oil drain plug and work your muscles.
The first oil change will be the toughest for the factory put in the oil plug and filter in with Herculian strength. You will eventually feel a budge. Rotate one or two times with the wrench, remove the wrench, and then loosen the plug with your hand. I usually put some pressure on the bolt with my pointer finger as I loosen with my other fingers. This gives you more control. You will eventually feel the bolt shift and some oil will start to drip down once you've reached the end of the threading. When ready, quickly remove the bolt and watch the oil spew out.
The flow will turn into a drip once the majority of the oil has left the car's oil pan. I let it drip for a bit. Once your patience has expired, replace the oil drain plug, setting the wrench for the socket to spin clockwise. Tighten as tight as you can.
Step 5:
Shift the oil catch pan to the oil filter area. You will want to center the pan under the filter.
Attach the oil filter cap wrench to a 3/4" socket wrench. For more leverage, I used an extension piece and attached the cap to that. Again, set the wrench so that the cap will rotate counterclockwise.
Attach the wrench to the bottom of the filter and with all of your might, try to get that filter rotating. The filter was far worse than the oil drain plug for me. That sucker was TIGHT. Grunting + muscles + digging your feet in the ground + sweat = a budge in the oil filter. Once that budge occurs, yell out "yes!" and continue rotating. Once the filter rotates smoothly, take off the wrench and finish the rotations with your hand.
Don't be surprised when in your rotations, if some oil flows out from the area on top of the filter. Yes, you still have some more rotations to do. Once the filter "breaks free", lower it(trying to keep it as vertical as possible) and then put the filter top side down, onto the oil catch pan. This will drain the filter of oil.
You might want to clean off your oily arm and hands now.
Step 6:
Grab the new filter and fill it with about 1/2 a quart of oil. Slowly do this for the filter will seem full after a small amount and then will settle. This cycle will repeat until it is full. With your finger, apply a small amount of oil on the black gasket.
Again, keeping the filter vertical, replace the filter onto the car. Hand tighten the filter going clockwise. After the gasket comes in contact with the mounting surface, the filter needs to be rotated another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. If you can do that by hand, awesome. If not,put the cap wrench on, set to turn clockwise, and tighten the filter.
Step 7:
Take your funnel and stick it in the engine hole. This $2 investment is worth it.
Put the remaining 5.5 quarts of oil in. Remove the funnel and replace the oil cap. Close the hood.
Step 8:
Remove the blocks behind your rear wheels and back your car off of the ramps. Take the car for a spin around the 'hood. Check for leaks and check the oil level with the dipstick when you return.
Step 9:
For your environmental karma, take the used motor oil to a site that will dispose of it. Most automotive shops will take the oil.
You have now performed your most likely first maintenance on your ride. Enjoy your new bond.