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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Oil light on at idle

My oil light comes on at idle but shuts off if I touch the throttle at all, and doesnt come on at all while driving. I know I do have a oil leak (valve cover gasket) but this just started recently and the leak has been there for a while.
Was curious if anybody else has had this issue and what the problem could possibly be coming from.
I can take a video later if it will help.

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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by zsElric View Post
My oil light comes on at idle but shuts off if I touch the throttle at all, and doesnt come on at all while driving. I know I do have a oil leak (valve cover gasket) but this just started recently and the leak has been there for a while.
Was curious if anybody else has had this issue and what the problem could possibly be coming from.
I can take a video later if it will help.

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This could be several different things.
1. Oil at the recommended level (check your oil level on flat ground wait 5-10 min after running)
2. Oil pressure sender switch connector loose (disconnect, clean, re-connect OPS)
3. Oil pressure switch working properly (test or replace OPS)

4. Possible oil pump pickup clog. (drop oil pan and clean pickup)
5. Possible oil pump failure. (drop oil pan and replace pump)
6. Internal motor damage. (replace/re-build motor)


I would check 1 and 2 first. If you have an oil pressure tester then I would connect that and check your motor pressure. If not then the cheapest way is to replace the OPS (~$5-$10).
After 1-3 the job gets a little more involved.


Good luck. (mine was doing the exact same thing and I cleaned the connector with great results.)


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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
This could be several different things.
1. Oil at the recommended level (check your oil level on flat ground wait 5-10 min after running)
2. Oil pressure sender switch connector loose (disconnect, clean, re-connect OPS)
3. Oil pressure switch working properly (test or replace OPS)

4. Possible oil pump pickup clog. (drop oil pan and clean pickup)
5. Possible oil pump failure. (drop oil pan and replace pump)
6. Internal motor damage. (replace/re-build motor)


I would check 1 and 2 first. If you have an oil pressure tester then I would connect that and check your motor pressure. If not then the cheapest way is to replace the OPS (~$5-$10).
After 1-3 the job gets a little more involved.


Good luck. (mine was doing the exact same thing and I cleaned the connector with great results.)
I have done the first step but I found it odd that it is only at idle, is that because the pressure increases while on the gas?

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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 02:59 PM
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I would remove the sensor and put a physical gauge on there.

If it shows low pressure.....

DO NOT ignore this. The "idiot light" comes on at a VERY low oil pressure and there are no circumstances where its acceptable, even at idle. If the indicator light is truthfully telling you pressure is low you either fix it or prepare to buy a new engine.
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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsElric View Post
I have done the first step but I found it odd that it is only at idle, is that because the pressure increases while on the gas?

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Yes pressure increases with rpm most of these sensors are basically an “on/off” switch so as they age and go bad they don’t come on at the correct pressure causing you’re problem my old eclipse 2.4 did this and most recently our 07 charger 5.7 factory patrol car both were just the sensors the charger was actually leaking not through where it screwed into the block but through the plug it was very odd lol


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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsElric View Post
I have done the first step but I found it odd that it is only at idle, is that because the pressure increases while on the gas?

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What @tickerguy and @bluedevil6 say is quite true. It can happen at idle because of engine shake and a bad connector/failing sender or because the oil pressure is indeed dropping low (worn or clogged parts)


Figure it our sooner than later.


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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the info I will definitely figure this out soon.
Is there any cel that could be thrown from this?
My cel is always on do to a air leak that I haven't been able to fix yet...

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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsElric View Post
Thank you all for the info I will definitely figure this out soon.
Is there any cel that could be thrown from this?
My cel is always on do to a air leak that I haven't been able to fix yet...

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the charger eventually threw one, something to the effect of "oil pressure sender low voltage" IIRC but my eclipse never did

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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsElric View Post
Thank you all for the info I will definitely figure this out soon.
Is there any cel that could be thrown from this?
My cel is always on do to a air leak that I haven't been able to fix yet...

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No, generally not from this.
List all your codes. We'll help..


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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
No, generally not from this.
List all your codes. We'll help..
P2179 and p2177: idle bank to lean off of 1 and 2. I believe this to be the vacuum leak. I had a smoke test done and there was a small leak out of the egr valve that the mechanic said was barely big enough to trip the cel. I also had the maf sensor replaced at that time.

A little while back I had a code saying something about the cat warm up temp was to cool or something like that, the code went away after just a minute so I never thought much of it. I also have headers with no pre cats.

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