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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jael Ryan View Post
I checked the accordion hose and found no leak thus far with my miniscule car know how. My dad suggested taking it to Mazda for diagnostics and see what it'll need.
Crossing fingers it won't take all my tax money
If I can give one piece of advice, it's to NEVER take a car that's out of warranty to a dealership. This is an older car with a very common Ford engine and parts, and any experienced local, independent mechanic will be able to do a great job on it at a fraction of the dealership cost. Dealership service writers get kickbacks for piling on service suggestions that you may or may not need.

Manual transmissions, wagons, and heavy metal are awesome. Zoom-Zoom \m/
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 03:05 PM
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What @MazdaMetalhead says is true for the actual repairs in my opinion. But I still see value on the diagnostic part. I had an astro cargo van that had problems with the idle air control valve working intermittantly. After a frustrating couple rounds at an independant shop, I took it to a dealer. They said, oh, we see that all the time. There is a wiring loom under the battery that vibrates on the chassis and wears off the insulation on the wire from the computer to the IAC valve and either shorts it to ground or eventually breaks the wire. I took it back home, soldered the wire back together and re wrapped the wiring loom and the problem was solved. The independent shop took two rounds of parts replacements and eventually gave up. That quick trip to the dealer was the best 80 bucks I ever spent!

Alex
2004 6s Wagon MTX - grocery hauler
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
What @MazdaMetalhead says is true for the actual repairs in my opinion. But I still see value on the diagnostic part. I had an astro cargo van that had problems with the idle air control valve working intermittantly. After a frustrating couple rounds at an independant shop, I took it to a dealer. They said, oh, we see that all the time. There is a wiring loom under the battery that vibrates on the chassis and wears off the insulation on the wire from the computer to the IAC valve and either shorts it to ground or eventually breaks the wire. I took it back home, soldered the wire back together and re wrapped the wiring loom and the problem was solved. The independent shop took two rounds of parts replacements and eventually gave up. That quick trip to the dealer was the best 80 bucks I ever spent!
I agree. Dealerships can have superior diagnostics equipment and, sometimes, expertise on specific models. Sometimes it pays to have them tell you what's wrong, but usually not to have them actually fix it as opposed to an independent mechanic.

Manual transmissions, wagons, and heavy metal are awesome. Zoom-Zoom \m/
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2004 Mazda 6s Wagon - 3.0L V6 | 5MT | Steel Gray Metallic |
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Other Mazdas owned: 2015 Mazda 5 Sport ATX (current), 2010 Mazda 6 ATX (traded), 1997 Protege MTX (sold)
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jael Ryan View Post
PS......are aftermarket iridium plugs worth the buy?

I would go witha plug that has at least the minimum specification as OEM. In this case the factory put a platinum plug in so going with that as a minimum would be advisable. Many on this forum and other Mazda forums speak highly of the NGK iridium plugs. I have been having good luck with the Motorcraft Platinum (the 3.0l AJ motor is a Ford power plant).


The Denso coils are OEM manufacturer at a fraction of the price.


Six new coils and plugs (Motorcraft plat.) from rockauto should run you less than $200 delivered. The other problems your can sort out with more time.
If the coils are original I would definitely start with that.


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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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here are the other pages, it would only let me attach so many at once lol
Thank you

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MazdaMetalhead View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jael Ryan View Post
I checked the accordion hose and found no leak thus far with my miniscule car know how. My dad suggested taking it to Mazda for diagnostics and see what it'll need.
Crossing fingers it won't take all my tax money
If I can give one piece of advice, it's to NEVER take a car that's out of warranty to a dealership. This is an older car with a very common Ford engine and parts, and any experienced local, independent mechanic will be able to do a great job on it at a fraction of the dealership cost. Dealership service writers get kickbacks for piling on service suggestions that you may or may not need.
Not to sound dumb, what are kickbacks?

Regards,
Jael Ryan
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
What @MazdaMetalhead says is true for the actual repairs in my opinion. But I still see value on the diagnostic part. I had an astro cargo van that had problems with the idle air control valve working intermittantly. After a frustrating couple rounds at an independant shop, I took it to a dealer. They said, oh, we see that all the time. There is a wiring loom under the battery that vibrates on the chassis and wears off the insulation on the wire from the computer to the IAC valve and either shorts it to ground or eventually breaks the wire. I took it back home, soldered the wire back together and re wrapped the wiring loom and the problem was solved. The independent shop took two rounds of parts replacements and eventually gave up. That quick trip to the dealer was the best 80 bucks I ever spent!

Daaaaaamn on the shop. I see the point now

Regards,
Jael Ryan
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFeelGood View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jael Ryan View Post
PS......are aftermarket iridium plugs worth the buy?

I would go witha plug that has at least the minimum specification as OEM. In this case the factory put a platinum plug in so going with that as a minimum would be advisable. Many on this forum and other Mazda forums speak highly of the NGK iridium plugs. I have been having good luck with the Motorcraft Platinum (the 3.0l AJ motor is a Ford power plant).


The Denso coils are OEM manufacturer at a fraction of the price.


Six new coils and plugs (Motorcraft plat.) from rockauto should run you less than $200 delivered. The other problems your can sort out with more time.
If the coils are original I would definitely start with that.


Just got the iridium ones put in. Now to find a good shift knob any pointers???

Regards,
Jael Ryan
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jael Ryan View Post
Just got the iridium ones put in. Now to find a good shift knob any pointers???
Well done, those plugs will be great and last a long time.
As far as shift knobs are concerned it is a pretty personal item. You just like what you like. There are threads here that explore this very topic.
https://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-...hift-knob.html
a quick search will reveal more. Some of other places are
Corksport
Revolution Performance Motorsport.
Cobb Tuning

Rally Sport Direct
Raceseng Mazda
There are bound to be countless others but these are some of my favorite pages.
Good luck and show us what you get.


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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jael Ryan View Post
Not to sound dumb, what are kickbacks?
In this context, the service writer may get a bonus for adding on 'recommended' service items that you may not really need to increase the dealership's revenue.

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