3.0 Valve Cover Gasket Tips? - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
Well... the fact that they are available at all is something to consider. Mazda made them integrated into the valve cover and indicates a full valve cover replacement is needed to refresh that seal. Imagine that cost! 27 is still not that bad.


I know, that was kind of my point I meant it as a joke because of the price of the alternative


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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bluedevil6 View Post
I know, that was kind of my point I meant it as a joke because of the price of the alternative


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Sorry if I came off too dower. I've been conditioned by buying parts for my 55 MG. Despite the parts not being original, I'm grateful that someone decided to make a reproduction.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
Sorry if I came off too dower. I've been conditioned by buying parts for my 55 MG. Despite the parts not being original, I'm grateful that someone decided to make a reproduction.


No, youíre all good! I realized that I didnít add ďlolĒor anything to that post and it was kind of vague so itís on me. I was just clarifying thatís how it was meant for you or anyone else that sees it.


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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 04:43 PM
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 06:52 PM
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Not mentioned yet, but you should probably invest a few Canadian Pesos on a proper seating tool so those gaskets go in flush and smooth the first time.

Often times price increases of 300% for gaskets means that they now have a metal hoop with bonded rubber around it, thus making a better seal and longer lasting, but also meaning that seating them can be tricky unless you have a backup set of gaskets for when your first whack with the ol' dinosaur hammer warps the metal hoop.

In our garage we always keep a spare motor (or 6) where you can pull things from such as pistons or even store your output shaft seal install tool (which will certainly work for these gaskets, if you aren't the Murican Metal type of car owner and wouldn't have thought to use this type of tool.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 12:11 AM
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I have an add-on question to this topic: Has anyone found the need to replace the grommets that go around the valve cover bolts when doing this job? Usually they come in the valve cover gasket kit (they did for my Chevy Malibu), but none of the kits I've found have them for the Mazda 6 3.0L.

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2018, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazdafish View Post
I have an add-on question to this topic: Has anyone found the need to replace the grommets that go around the valve cover bolts when doing this job? Usually they come in the valve cover gasket kit (they did for my Chevy Malibu), but none of the kits I've found have them for the Mazda 6 3.0L.
Not particularly. The grommets around the perimeter don't do any sealing, just the two center ones, a little bit. I'm not even sure you can buy new ones.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-04-2019, 11:11 PM
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I did my valve cover gaskets last weekend. It took some effort figuring out how it all came apart and went back together, but in the end it worked out. All the bolt grommets were fine, but I did replace the OCV seals with the ones from Twisted Tuning. The OCV seal on the rear bank tore when I tried to get the cover off. I ended up removing the bolt that held in the OCV and then the rear cover came off easy together with the OCV.

Unfortunately, I still have the burnt oil smell that I was hoping to eliminate. I think the timing cover gasket is leaking down onto the catalytic converter below...and that's probably not worth fixing.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazdafish View Post
Unfortunately, I still have the burnt oil smell that I was hoping to eliminate. I think the timing cover gasket is leaking down onto the catalytic converter below...and that's probably not worth fixing.

Yup, good times there. I see a future of permanent recirculate on your cabin air setting.
I believe a user on here, maybe @98se5speed had a scrappy little fix using an old license plate as a heat shield extender.
I used a half bottle of Lucas stop leak for two subsequent oil changes and it helped quite a bit. Using 'high mileage' oil will also help since the timing seal is rubber and will swell with the conditioner.


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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 02:49 PM
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Yes, your prognosis is likely correct with regards to the burning smell. I had a rather significant leak on the rear bank that would sometimes result in smoke INSIDE the cabin which went away after the valve cover gasket repair. Now I just have a mild smoke smell and some minor smoking at the right front corner of the car when it is really hot. As the Doc says, @98se5speed built a drip shield from old license plates to divert it over the cat. Hopefully he will jump on and post a photo of it.

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