Help! Codes P2227 and P1487! - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-16-2013, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Help! Codes P2227 and P1487!

Hey everyone! I need help diagnosing the P2227 and P1487 codes that have been plaguing my '04 3.0 Mazda 6.

Here is the information that I found elsewhere and believe to be accurate about the codes:

P1487 - EGR boost sensor Solenoid valve circuit malfunction ON 2 CCM

P2227 - EGR boost sensor circuit performance problem ON 2 CCM


This seems to indicate a bad boost sensor? Well I recently replaced the boost sensor and I've still been battling the codes for about 250 miles. The car is running fine and my mileage has not changed noticeably.

What do I do next? The nearest Mazda dealership is an hour away and I would like to be able to sort this out on my own. However, I need to pass emissions by the end of the month.

Thanks!

Last edited by krtismo; 12-16-2013 at 06:10 PM.
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-16-2013, 07:47 PM
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Sounds like the ECM doesn't think it works. We can dig up the ohms measurement for the solenoid or you can apply 12v to it while the engine is running at idle and the car should fall on its face (die/stumble). I would use a heavy test lamp at first (ground one side of valve, use test lamp from +12V to other side of the solenoid) just so you don't over current the solenoid. If it lights bright, go for the direct connections with very small gauge wire (like 18 - 22 gauge).

The other option is all the equipment is working but the EGR is plugged. Did you pull the tip out of the manifold? The ecm expects to see a vacuum difference when its active. If no change, it thinks, no worky....
Is this a Grocery getter idling around most of its life?

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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-16-2013, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'm a little intimidated by the electrical checks so I'll try those second.

I would like to try checking the EGR Valve first.

Could you be more specific about pulling the tip out of the manifold?

This car commutes at highways speeds 4 days a week.

Thanks for the help!
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013, 12:10 AM
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If you can get that big nut on the EGR pipe off, remove the EGR, then remove the 3 screws holding the nozzle into the intake manifold. From here you can inspect the down pipe, valve and nozzle.

if you have an ohm meter, measure the coil resistance of the solenoid. If its infinites, the coil driving the valve is bad. I'd guess its 150 to 50 ohms but need to find the spec. I might be less. Next, using small gauge wires power it up and listen for a click off and on with the car off. It should throw a tiny spark. very tiny. If nothing, a good sign its burned open.


The other option is to take off the manifold. Only takes about 25 min.
Here is what your looking for. Sorry - don't know who to give credit too for pic...
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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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I read in another forum that this was the Boost Sensor, this is what I replaced. Is that not the boost sensor?
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013, 11:36 AM
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To answer your question, the sensor is on the firewall, 3 pin conductor and the Solenoid is on the EGR pipe with 6 pins. Their name is nearly the same; EGR Boost Sensor vs EGR boost sensor Solenoid.

P2228 says if Terminal 34 of the ECM is 0.35V or less all the time it will be triggered.

EGR boost sensor failure
Open circuit between EGR Terminal C and PCM terminal 90
Open circuit between EGR Terminal A and PCM terminal 34
Short to GND circuit between EGR boost sensor Terminal A and PCM terminal 34.

EGR - PCM
A - 34
B - 91
C - 90

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for your help, and explaining the differences between the sensor and the solenoid.

I found a DIY thread on removing and cleaning the EGR valve which I'm about to go try right now.

However, I'm still fairly confused on how to do the electrical checks, I have a nice multimeter but I'm not very experienced with it. I also don't have any test lamps.

If you could, (and you don't have to) I would appreciate dumbed down explanation for electrical morons like me. I just want to confirm is the solenoid does or does not work.
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-18-2013, 01:11 AM
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PM me...

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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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OK, here is the latest update for everyone:

A couple days ago, I removed, cleaned, and modded the EGR valve, and I found a booger that seemed to be blocking the hole in the EGR Tube.

I was guessing that was the problem, however my CEL came back on last night but with only the P1487 code.

Car still runs fine, the mechanical part of the EGR valve operated smoothly, all pipes and tubes connected to the EGR valve and the EGR sensor were checked and are clear.

I haven't done any electrical tests because I don't really know how to, and I don't want to break anything.



Does this leave the EGR sensor solenoid not functioning as the only logical problem left?

Do I just replace the whole EGR assembly now?

Is the EGR Vacuum Solenoid something I should be looking into?
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 09:05 PM
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As mentioned in pm I can take a little more time and see if I can highlight some steps. I would hold up on buying till you know the power and vacuum is there.
When is the last time it worked properly?

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