Help! Codes P2227 and P1487! - Page 4 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:20 PM
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@b1lk1 I'll check into it. I haven't touched the air box at all so I suspect that if this is the issue, the sensor had failed. Do you know how to test the sensor/motor?

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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by b1lk1 View Post
P1487 has NOTHING to do with the EGR valve. You are using generic codes definitions. For us, this code is for the variable intake air valve (not sure if this is exactly right) that is attached to teh side of the factory airbox. If you have a CAI, you need to remove this valve (has a green plug) from the airbox, plug in the sensor and just put it off to the side somewhere.
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P1487 is EGR Boost Sensor Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction


@b1lk1 The VAD (Variable Air Duct) is code P1410. I have had that code and also had the solenoid unplugged. Later it failed and I pluged the vacuum line with a screw and eliminated it that way.
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
@b1lk1 I'll check into it. I haven't touched the air box at all so I suspect that if this is the issue, the sensor had failed. Do you know how to test the sensor/motor?

The solenoid opens and closes the "extra air flapper" when you are open throttle. The green plug in the upp right of the picture is difficult to click into place and will give a P1410 MIL when unplugged or faulty.
My diaphragm was immobile and could not be opened by have or with the solenoid so I disconnected the terminal end of the vacuum line and put a bolt into it to plug.
I then removed the four screws to allow removal of the air flap door to permit maximum air to flow into the intake at all times. It did make my intake noise noticeably louder, especially on WOT, (I kinda like it)






It is also possible to disable the system by turning the VAD check valve pictured below (white/green) but I was unable to dislodge mine without destroying the hose and I had no spare handy.
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 01:58 PM
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Huh, I was wondering what that green/white thing was, but not enough to bother looking it up anywhere. Thanks for saving me the time!

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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 02:36 PM
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@DrFeelGood thanks for the info. Any chance you found part numbers for the boost sensor solenoid and the baro sensor?

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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by waughoo View Post
@DrFeelGood thanks for the info. Any chance you found part numbers for the boost sensor solenoid and the baro sensor?
I think these are the two sensors you are looking for. Cross check to verify. They may be salvage yard grabs.

W0133-1756466
W0133-1795539


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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 10:00 PM
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Thanks Doc. I bench tested the solenoid valve and it worked correctly out of the car. I was a bit too lazy to perform the factory test for the baro sensor, so I just decided to buy one. The one you have listed above is almost correct, but I was able to find the right one after a bit of searching with the part number on the one in the car. I'll report back after I've tried it out.

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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 01:12 PM
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So in my obsession with a solution to this issue, I came across this post in another forum. It appears to be a non vehicle specific repair forum meant to help troubleshoot error codes and scan data from the OBD scanner. They are for the exact same two codes as this thread. The interesting thing I spotted was that the guy bench tested the solenoid and it did everything it was supposed to do, but it was still throwing the code. Eventually, he replaced the solenoid with a new one and the code cleared. It makes me curious if there's a resistance value in the solenoid that the computer wants to see. Regardless, I plan to change both the solenoid and the baro sensor (parts ordered) and will replace them when the new ones arrive. I'll report back.


https://www.scannerdanner.com/forum/...and-p2227.html

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