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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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I'll be out of town until the 26th, so I won't be able to work on it until then. However, my emissions test is due the 29th, so it will be crunch time when I get home.

CEL first came on about 2 months ago and I started working on it in the beginning of December.
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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 04:05 PM
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OK here is a test you can do with the EGR VALVE; P1487
Unplug the connector, It has 6 conductors, lets label them as follows. The key point being the two from the center C & D, to ALL other points is 20 ohms on the AJ. 12-16 ohms on the I4.
Looking into connector, take 4 measurements:
E-C-A
F-D-B


With your DMM short the test leads together in the Ohms mode and you should get a reading of 0 to 1 ohm. If higher (1 - 5 ohms) subtract this from your reading taken on the solenoid(s).

C -> E = 20 ohms
C -> A = 20 ohms
D -> F = 20 ohms
D -> B = 20 ohms
Below 15 ohms or above 25 ohms, its defective. Also inspect all pin for damage on the connector and trace the wires as far you can for damage.

If this test good, the 4 leads on the outer corners go to the ECM. The 2 in the center go the the "main relay" so it says. Oddly enough, there is a relay called main in my 06.



You could pull the relay and ohm between the contacts to see if the connection from the body harness to the EGR is intact. Should read less than a couple ohms.
WITH THE RELAY OUT and looking into to the connector: It has s T shape.

A - X - E
___C
___D

X is not populated. Check email... All I have time for now...
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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Due to all of my flights being canceled for weather, I had time to test this today and here are the results:

C -> E = 25.2 ohms
C -> A = 25.2 ohms
D -> F = 25.4 ohms
D -> B = 25.7 ohms

Conclusive evidence that the solenoid is bad?

If so, I can't seem to find a solenoid only replacement. Everything I have seen is the whole EGR valve and solenoid together. Is this the only way to replace it?

Thank you so much for all of the help and the detailed guide!
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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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You get the email?

Off hand I would say not. Too unlikely all 4 coils at once. 12V across 25 ohms is a 0.5 Amps. What about the vacuum?

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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Final Impact View Post
You get the email?

Off hand I would say not. Too unlikely all 4 coils at once. 12V across 25 ohms is a 0.5 Amps. What about the vacuum?
I did not get an email yet, I checked in the PM and the email I sent is correct.
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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-27-2013, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm back from my vacation. I'm planning on going through the electrical checks today from the PDF you sent. If everything passes then I need to do vacuum checks?

I understand vacuum much more than I understand electricity, but I still don't know which lines and how to check them.

I'm assuming I'll be disconnecting lines with the engine running and checking for vacuum and/or a change in engine RPM?

Thanks again, and I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!
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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-27-2013, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Today's update:

I just finished testing the EGR Boost Sensor Solenoid Valve and I was able to get it to function properly when applying direct battery power to it. However, I was unable to get it to function with it installed and a warm engine revved to 4k RPM. I'm not sure if that is the correct way to test it. I was trying to get the EGR Valve to open, I'm not sure how/when it opens, I'm assuming when the engine is warm and under load.

I have vacuum in the line from the EGR valve to the EGR BSSV, but no vacuum between the BSSV and the Boost Sensor.

According to this diagram it is always in the de-energized mode:







So now I have replaced the EGR Boost Sensor, tested the EGR Boost Sensor Solenoid, and tested the EGR Boost Sensor Solenoid Valve. The EGR Valve was also cleaned and seemed to open and close easily, however I have not officially confirmed it opening and closing with it installed and the engine running.

Tomorrow I will test the wiring harness and connectors according to the PDF.

Running out of options...

Last edited by krtismo; 12-27-2013 at 08:58 PM.
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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-27-2013, 10:16 PM
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Do you have a code reader of some kind and can it read anything with the EGR stuff on it? You are correct, its basical active at cruise and light throttle/loads. Not at idle and must be in gear so its not going to be seen in the driveway.

If not, another option is to test the vacuum sensor with a basic syringe and ohm meter. It should change state. Its range of operation is in the pic below. It has two leads and may be a go/no-go (on or off) and it may actually be a pressure sensor. Its range of operation is very LIMITED! Frankly a human can suck enough to trigger it I suspect. So be nice to to it. Connect ohm meter to the two leads and suck on it. Does it change state?

Help! Codes P2227 and P1487!-egr-boost-sensor-aj.jpg

Help! Codes P2227 and P1487!-egr-boost-sensor-aj.1.jpg

Help! Codes P2227 and P1487!-egr-boost-sensor-aj.2.jpg

Hopefully these help.

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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-28-2013, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't get a chance to check the wiring harness and connectors today, but I did test the sensor by sucking on the hose that goes into the sensor, and I wasn't sure how to measure it with the ohm meter (not sure what two leads you were talking about). I did notice a change in engine RPM while I was applying suction, and another change when I stopped.

Was that the EGR valve operating that changed the RPM?

Does that mean the EGR valve and the EGR sensor seem to be working properly?
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 12-28-2013, 01:16 PM
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Was thinking - unplug it from the car. The sensor has two leads, connect those meter leads to the sensor and set it too Ohms. Likely 0 - 500 or so and apply vacuum. Its looking for pressure drop to tell the ECM the EGR valves commanded action actually took place.

So does it still have both codes and how far have you driven it? What are you using for a code reader and what does said reader display for "Readiness"

The only thing I have up and running is a phone app Torque Pro.

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