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OMGWTFBBQ!!!

6K views 44 replies 18 participants last post by  btf 
#1 ·
I swear Mazda has a program in their cars that as soon as you hit 80,000kms there is a self destruct code in it.

I went for a hefty drive along some of the roads near my place. After a while I was starting to notice a slight powerloss issue which is to be expected when running the car hard and hot. It was about the last 1/3 of the trip that I really started having problems. It started out by a puff of black smoke coming out of my exhaust at the top of the Dundas Hill, then halfway down a REALLY REALLY big puff came out. The car was getting hesistant, and unhappy. I stopped to have a look to see if I was drippin oil, but wasn't. I carried on. But now every time the car got to about 800 rpm which the clutch in (like neutral for example) the oil light would be flickering. Every time I came to a stop at a stop sign my car was stallling. In the last 4 kms my oil light stayed on for about a half second then would turn off, then come back on. I limped back to my house and pulled the dipstick again....the oil is still golden looking and appears to be in normal range. The oil was hot as hell, and the engine was rocket hot. In idle the oil light would be flashing and a ticking sound could be heard about halfway down on the driver's side of the engine. Yet the coolant temperature is where it normally is...namely in the middle.

I let the engine cool for and hour and started it...it was hesitant, but the oil light was gone, as well as the ticking sound.

I am going to check my CPE connections, and solder them instead of scotchloc them with the connections that came with the kit.

For you autoxers have you ever encountered this type of scenario?
Is it the oil pressure is just too high from being shifted at high revs consistantly for 20 mins? Is there an oil temp sensor that is telling me it is too hot?

I would have figured I was foaming the oil, but looking at it, it wasn't cloudy so that is a non-issue.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

This morning i soldered my connections where they had been. I've had my CP-E for a while and haven't had any troubles until yesterday.

Again today the car was stalling out with low rpms (800), and was extremely hesistant to start. The ticking noise is back.....and i occasionally hear a "popping" sound. The noise seems to be coming from the intake manifold area, or the rear bank of spark plugs. I don't have an automotive stethoscope so I can't pinpoint it exactly. It sounds like a sticky lifter in comparison. But seems unlikely.

Aside from the obvious go see your dealer, and I have no idea posts....can anyone lend any indication as to what it could be? I know that there are a multitude of possibilities but any starting point would be great.
 
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#2 ·
Well you can start by thanking the lord you still have oil in the engine. Your next step should be to remove the CP-E MAFci altogether and drive the car stock(as long as the oil light is OFF and you know for a fact there's adequate oil in the engine- don't drive with it on or tell anybody at the dealer you did). I've never heard of an oil pump going on these engines but that could be a slight possibility in your case. Could also be the MAF box or the connections. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
#3 ·
I really don't understand why I bother asking for help...i never get it anyways....

Thank you to Betelgeuse for offering a suggestion as to what it might be.

Driving it to the dealership today I experienced total powerloss. Coming up the off ramp of the highway at ~100 km.h(65-70mph) the car just stalled out. I had to manually steer the car around the esses, and use the brakes to come to a complete stop...i had to make sure my braking was good because I only had one chance. I limped to the dealership a block from that point....the car is not happy and to keep it running I had to keep my foot on the gas and keep it revved at 1500 rpm. Letting my foot of resulted in immediate powerloss.

Sounds like a siezed engine with all my oil in the normal operating range. Aside from the soldered MAFCi wire the car is bone stock.

Possibly a PCV Valve but it sounds more complicated than that. Anyways, I will notify mark this thread, but I don't expect any help at this point anyways....I wanted to go to the dealership with some knowledge but my car is there now anyways....
 
#4 ·
If it was the PCV valve you would notice a lot less oil, not the sputtering you are talking about really.

I would definately clean the MAF sensor jus to rule it out. I had a "stutter" problem on ocasion like the car would run out of gas and that went away and never resurfaced after the cleaning of the maf sensor. The CAI lets it get dirty fast. My car only had 20K miles on it at the time.

Lastly, the TB is common to go, but it usually throws out a CEL when it starts acting up or your car dies.

Btw, dont feel bad, yesterday was the weekend and not many were on.

Also, none of these problems should arise from driving it too hard. If anything the engine should pull timing a bit but honestly unless you were reving it and not moving, it should really easily keep cool enough while driving with all the air passing through it. I've gone on long and hard drives without problems.

Let us know what it is.
 
#5 ·
I swear Mazda has a program in their cars that as soon as you hit 80,000kms there is a self destruct code in it.

I went for a hefty drive along some of the roads near my place. After a while I was starting to notice a slight powerloss issue which is to be expected when running the car hard and hot. It was about the last 1/3 of the trip that I really started having problems. It started out by a puff of black smoke coming out of my exhaust at the top of the Dundas Hill, then halfway down a REALLY REALLY big puff came out. The car was getting hesistant, and unhappy. I stopped to have a look to see if I was drippin oil, but wasn't. I carried on. But now every time the car got to about 800 rpm which the clutch in (like neutral for example) the oil light would be flickering. Every time I came to a stop at a stop sign my car was stallling. In the last 4 kms my oil light stayed on for about a half second then would turn off, then come back on. I limped back to my house and pulled the dipstick again....the oil is still golden looking and appears to be in normal range. The oil was hot as hell, and the engine was rocket hot. In idle the oil light would be flashing and a ticking sound could be heard about halfway down on the driver's side of the engine. Yet the coolant temperature is where it normally is...namely in the middle.

I let the engine cool for and hour and started it...it was hesitant, but the oil light was gone, as well as the ticking sound.

I am going to check my CPE connections, and solder them instead of scotchloc them with the connections that came with the kit.

For you autoxers have you ever encountered this type of scenario?
Is it the oil pressure is just too high from being shifted at high revs consistantly for 20 mins? Is there an oil temp sensor that is telling me it is too hot?

I would have figured I was foaming the oil, but looking at it, it wasn't cloudy so that is a non-issue.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

This morning i soldered my connections where they had been. I've had my CP-E for a while and haven't had any troubles until yesterday.

Again today the car was stalling out with low rpms (800), and was extremely hesistant to start. The ticking noise is back.....and i occasionally hear a "popping" sound. The noise seems to be coming from the intake manifold area, or the rear bank of spark plugs. I don't have an automotive stethoscope so I can't pinpoint it exactly. It sounds like a sticky lifter in comparison. But seems unlikely.

Aside from the obvious go see your dealer, and I have no idea posts....can anyone lend any indication as to what it could be? I know that there are a multitude of possibilities but any starting point would be great.
[/b]
======================================================
have you looked at your ignition rotor. my honda started going like that (without the oil light though) and had to have it towed when it got to a point that it wont start.
 
#7 ·
Sounds like a siezed engine with all my oil in the normal operating range. Aside from the soldered MAFCi wire the car is bone stock.

Possibly a PCV Valve but it sounds more complicated than that. Anyways, I will notify mark this thread, but I don't expect any help at this point anyways....I wanted to go to the dealership with some knowledge but my car is there now anyways....[/b]
If you had the PCV valve issue your oil level would've been really low to the point of not registering on the dipstick. At this point it's hard for anyone to give you a definate answer. Also having the CP-E MAFci on complicates the issue since that in itself can to lead all sorts of strange problems. Please let us know what the dealer finds as this can be valuable to someone else with a similar problem.
 
#10 ·
umm.. i don't know?
 
#13 ·
because I never seem to be able to get help around here. Even for simple questions its like having teeth pulled. I literally have to go to my regional forum to get help. This engine section is known to have engine gurus like 84FordMan, Crossbow, MazdaGrem, MrTea, and a whole bunch of gear heads, but no because I'm just another person with an engine problem no-one gives a shit. I garantee by me changing the topic heading I have had more hits on this thread today then i have had in the last 4 days.

All i want to know now is how much a new engine will cost. I found my answer. i'm done. I'll just go back to my corner and leave everyone else alone.
 
#14 ·
Like i said before a new engine will cost a little more the $4000 for the dealer to do it. Honestly i have not a clue whats wrong with your car. I had an issue with my Throtle Body at only 3,000 miles on the car. It went into limp mode and Check engine light came on. So that gave me a little hint as to what was wrong. You said you have no cel's correct? Maybe you blew a piston or something and lost major compression, or maybe you blew your head gasket. Did you notice any oil in the engine compartment? Oh also it could be bad piston rings
 
#16 ·
I love my car as a daily driver, i just wish it was a little faster. They dont make the CP-E headers for my car because its the 2006 model. I was on the highway last night and ran into a mustang gt, looked modded had a cobra r rear wing and exhaust and all, well my car did very well but he seems to pull good on me up top. About 3 car lenghts, and i hit the damm speed limiter !
 
#17 ·
depends on what year gt... if its an older one like around 96 u should pull on it.but a newer gt you would lose to.
 
#18 ·
because I never seem to be able to get help around here. Even for simple questions its like having teeth pulled. I literally have to go to my regional forum to get help. This engine section is known to have engine gurus like 84FordMan, Crossbow, MazdaGrem, MrTea, and a whole bunch of gear heads, but no because I'm just another person with an engine problem no-one gives a shit. I garantee by me changing the topic heading I have had more hits on this thread today then i have had in the last 4 days.

All i want to know now is how much a new engine will cost. I found my answer. i'm done. I'll just go back to my corner and leave everyone else alone.
[/b]

Don't be a jack-ass man. Engine are complicated animals, and it's difficult to diagnos just from someone attemtping to describe what happened. Bring it to the dealer, which you have already done or ask for a mechanic type, who's local on the boards to help out.

Otherwise, take the help as it comes, that's why it's called HELP.
 
#19 ·
It was never my intention to be a jack ass....i'm just gettng frustrated that 5 times I have tried to get help in this forum for much simpler things and not once have I ever had ANY help. At least this time I have had 2 people offer me some credible suggestions. I responded the way it did because if i being told i'm taking a shit fit, then i'm going to tell you why I'm taking a shit fit. Off loading i suppose...

So I apologize that I was frustrated and took it out on you guys. I stand corrected.

-Chris
 
#20 ·
I don't post if the problem has been covered before (I let others tell people to search), or if I have "absolutely no idea what the problem is."

So sorry if you feel you're being ignored...I just have no clue and I really try not to guess when it involves expensive problems. I just send the post to people who know alot more then I do, and hopefully they will have time to look it over...but they tend to be extremely busy...as most talented people are.

If I had to randomly guess...sounds like you lost compression, which is generally caused by some sort of ring damage, and or headgasket issues.

Black smoke generally indicative of excessive fuel in the exhaust. Maybe something happened in one of the cylinders, and you either lost compression (combustion not fully occuring and excess fuel being dumped into the exhaust), or a sparkplug went out in that cylinder (all fuel being dumped into the exhaust).

Of course those would result in more consistent amounts of smoke.
 
#21 ·
you prob broke sic. a valve. the v6 has an enormous amount of vaccuum and backpressure. the motor is not as cheap as they are saying also. The labor on my install was over $2000. and the motor was around $3000 plus odds and ends and fluids. Just got mine back yesterday from Mazda and the total bill was outrageous. Good luck at the dealer stand your ground and ask questions and aks for a lesson on how it works and play DUMB about how much you realy know. You will do better if you dont show up the writer and tech.

btw a blocked cat caused me to loose compression and #3 cylinder ring to gap from 1 mm to 8 mm and loose all power.
 
#23 ·
I don't get why you would ask us what a new engine costs when the dealer is readily available. Prices should generally be the same from region to region but I've seen numbers on the forums anywhere from $3000 to $5000. Ask your dealer, they would know for sure, then contribute by coming back here and setting us all straight. It's a give and a take. Maybe you're the first to have this particular problem, who knows. Plus, while forums are usually a good place to get info, quite often, the information isn't very accurate or mostly educated guesses as this thread clearly shows. Everything mentioned here is a possibility but without hard diagnostic info, there's no way to know for sure.
 
#25 ·
Sounds like the same issue I had on my second motor. Had a compression problem in the #1 and 2 cyl and caused a misfire condition. Took the cats out on that bank as well. This happened within ~800 miles. I had thrown a CEL (P0421) and figured my cat was slowly dying. One drive home one night, things ran well (still had a CEL). The next morning within 45 min, it went from OK to a loss of power to WTF is going on to it stalling out and not happy about running at all.

A reman motor is $2554.19 according to my invoice. That's the motor itself. (P/N AJ58-02-000R-00) I have two P/Ns for the cats. Perhaps one is the pre-cat? (AJ57-20-55XC and AJ59-20-60XF) both at $500 ea. Labor was $1187 and this wasn't just the motor. Replaced an injector as well as the cats so YMMV. This was in Chicago too, but labor is labor.

From what I've been hearing from a couple local dealers, these motors aren't all they're cracked up to be I think. I have a feeling that more and more are going to start having problems. Remember, these are only [barely] 4 model years old so now is when middle milage issues are going to arise.
 
#26 ·
just as an update. i am getting a new motor under my warranty, and i am waiting on the details as to what actually went wrong.

Again terribly sorry for the "shit fit" I threw last week i was stressed to the max, and I was worng for acting the way i did.
 
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