Excessive rust on front hub of Mazda 6 2012 - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 07:57 PM
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The rotor usually has a threaded hole where you can tighten a bolt with impact wrench and it will pop the rotor right off. I used this process couple months back when replacing the rotor (don't remember the size of bolt, but I had one of the required size in my tool box).
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milleniacm View Post
I took my car in for a front brake job at 75K miles. The mechanic told me the rotors are not coming off. There is huge amount of rust at the front end hub, knuckle and bearing and they need to be replaced for $1700. What is going on with the excessive rust? Is Mazda going to issue a recall? The car is only 6.5 years old. This is my third Mazda. I never had a problem like this on my 99 Millenia, or the 04 Mazda 6.

Assuming you have to replace both wheel bearings and hub (Moog $65x2) and NEW OEM Mazda knuckles ($300x2) plus "$75 for brakes" puts you at $805. $900 labor to do a 3hr job ? ??? I went into the wrong profession apparently because I don't make $300/hr.


I'm with everyone before me and find a different mechanic for at least an estimate.


Is there any way to get a picture of the damage?
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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By the way, the quote of $1700 was to replace knuckle, hub and bearing on passenger side only. I brought my own rotors. They said $900 in parts, $800 in labor.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milleniacm View Post
By the way, the quote of $1700 was to replace knuckle, hub and bearing on passenger side only. I brought my own rotors. They said $900 in parts, $800 in labor.


If you ask me these photos basically confirm what has been said here, there does not look like there is excessive corrosion or really much at all it also doesnít even look like they tried to remove the screws on the one rotor and the other one doesnít even have them. Iíll say it again at least have another mechanic look at it for an estimate. I think youíre being ripped off the unfortunate truth is that there are ALOT of mechanics out there that try to take advantage of people.


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 03:10 PM
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There is some amount of personal preference and experience for what is a "lot" of rust. To some, seeing spots of rust on the rotor contact surface indicates to them that their rotors are in need of replacement. To strange old bastards such as myself, having the entire floorboard of a vehicle rusted completely through isn't that bad of a deal. Just don't drop things while driving and keep your feet on the pedals!

Modern cars are essentially rust free aside from paper thin body panels. Thick cast metal components such as control arms and hubs should take 50+ years of rust to be at the point where structural integrity comes into play, even in the rust belt.

My 1941 Ford Super Deluxe still has original leafs and hubs on all 4 corners and they are still structurally sound. Going out on a limb that 77 year old steel should have more rust damage than a 6 year old vehicle, ESPECIALLY considering the advances in metallurgy and the corrosion resistance of modern cast metals.

9 cars and 2 parking spots, this doesn't make any sense.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by El Leon View Post
Modern cars are essentially rust free aside from paper thin body panels. Thick cast metal components such as control arms and hubs should take 50+ years of rust to be at the point where structural integrity comes into play, even in the rust belt.

Unfortunately, that wasn't the case with the subframe of my previous 2009 mazda 6... But then Mazda didn't built it right. At least there was a recall for that!



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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milleniacm View Post
By the way, the quote of $1700 was to replace knuckle, hub and bearing on passenger side only. I brought my own rotors. They said $900 in parts, $800 in labor.
This can be done with a puller. The bearing will separate and be destroyed. the old race will be cut off with a grinder and a new bearing and hub will be pressed into place. I would guess $70 parts and 2-3 hrs labor. Having just done this job and having a completely frozen axle I was able to save everything but the bearing.


Rotor Drill Out.



Axle extraction



Ready to press out







Total cost <$100 for this part.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your help. I ordered the bearings and hubs.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
Meh. If the screws are corroded in place (not uncommon; idjits don't put a bit of brake caliper grease on the threads before installing them, which you should, and if you do they won't rust into the hub) then you get your drill out and drill the head off the screw.

JUST THE HEAD! That leaves plenty to grab with a vice-grip and remove it once the rotor is off.

Push comes to shove if you break THAT (the stub) off in the hub getting it out leave it alone. That screw is just there to keep the rotor in place until you bolt the wheel on; in other words, its for CONVENIENCE. It's not required and having it not there will do no harm.

I did this EXACTLY on my own 2007 wagon when I wanted to replace the stock rotors with EBC rotors.
Some of the original Philips Flat Head Machine Screws came out with an impact driver, but a couple didn't.
I drilled the heads with a bit just smaller than the body diameter until the heads came off, and pushed the rotors off with a bolt.
Then used some PB Blaster on the stubs left behind and they came right out.
Then I just bought the new FHMS in socket hex drive from my local hardware store. Problem solved. Not a big thing.

Time to find a different mechanic. Even if he's (also) shady, "A new broom sweeps best" as the saying goes and he probably won't act like a vag and try to make you pay for a new front end!!

Good luck with your ride.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 02:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Leon View Post
Thick cast metal components such as control arms and hubs should take 50+ years of rust to be at the point where structural integrity comes into play, even in the rust belt
Can't say I agree. My Mazda6 unfortunately has fabricated / welded pressed steel control arms, simply phosphate coated, ready-to-rust. My 99 Camry by comparison has cast (or forged) steel or ductile iron for these same parts. Night and day difference in cheapness factor (IMHO). I can make it work, preserve things (don't get me wrong) and I don't live in the rust belt so it's not that bad - but, truthfully, I lament the differences in quality. Camry is 20 years old, though. Toyota was in its glory-days then with that car, in quality terms in any case.

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