Oil Consumption with 0w-20 Grade Oil? - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Consumption with 0w-20 Grade Oil?

I just got back from a marathon holiday road trip of about 3500 miles. This morning, I checked the oil level and found it below the "add" hole on the dip stick. Its been about 4600 miles since my last change (9400 miles on my car) and I was getting ready to change it anyway.

One quart in 4600 miles isn't outrageous, but it isn't what I'd expect either. I'm wondering if the 0-20 oil that Mazda has spec'ed for N.A. model cars isn't a tad on the light side? I'll keep a closer eye on my oil level from now on, that's for sure.

Has anyone else seen consumption in the one quart per 4-5k mile range? Anyone tried running 0-30 or 5-30 oil in their 2.5?


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post #2 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 04:35 PM
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i see you are still under 10K miles. Mine had some funky oil readings with it was still breaking in (under 10K) but it settled as the miles racked up. My most recent oil change i lost maybe 1/2 quart in 5000miles, 9months, mostly city driving. I send my oil to oil analysis and engine is perfectly healthy with no issues or excessive year.

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post #3 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 05:00 PM
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My car consumes about half a quart in 7500 miles.
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post #4 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jerrycobra View Post
i see you are still under 10K miles. Mine had some funky oil readings with it was still breaking in (under 10K) but it settled as the miles racked up. My most recent oil change i lost maybe 1/2 quart in 5000miles, 9months, mostly city driving. I send my oil to oil analysis and engine is perfectly healthy with no issues or excessive year.
Thanks for the reply, Jerrycobra.

Yea, I thought about the idea that the engine could still be bedding in. I'm more used to seeing typical consumption like yours - 1/2 qt in 5000 miles. I'll keep a closer eye on it from now on.


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post #5 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
My car consumes about half a quart in 7500 miles.
Thanks tickerguy. Yes, this seems like more typical consumption.

I know from reading this forum that neither you nor Jerrycobra seem to "baby" your cars. That says to me that it probably isn't the 0-20 oil. I'm hoping it's just still my engine breaking in. I'll keep an eye on it.


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post #6 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 11:29 AM
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One interesting point I have noted is that the couple of times I ran Mobil 1 0w20 consumption was a bit higher than when I run Pennzoil. The latter is usually a buck or two cheaper per 5-quart jug, so the latter gets bought 90% of the time -- except when the Mobil 1 is on sale :-)

I've seen no difference in UOI results with either; all my UOI checks (I've done several) have shown near-zero wear metal levels. Internal wear won't be what kills this engine irrespective of mileage from what I can tell at this point; I'm 100k miles in and suspect that it will be something mechanical that eventually breaks and destroys it -- it will not wear out. I fully expect the car to be running just fine in the 250-300k mile area given what I've seen thus far.
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post #7 of 64 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 11:56 AM
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I've just hit 30k miles on my 2014. I have no loss, ZERO, right up to my usual 5000 mile oil changes.

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post #8 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tickerguy View Post
One interesting point I have noted is that the couple of times I ran Mobil 1 0w20 consumption was a bit higher than when I run Pennzoil. The latter is usually a buck or two cheaper per 5-quart jug, so the latter gets bought 90% of the time -- except when the Mobil 1 is on sale :-)

I've seen no difference in UOI results with either; all my UOI checks (I've done several) have shown near-zero wear metal levels. Internal wear won't be what kills this engine irrespective of mileage from what I can tell at this point; I'm 100k miles in and suspect that it will be something mechanical that eventually breaks and destroys it -- it will not wear out. I fully expect the car to be running just fine in the 250-300k mile area given what I've seen thus far.
I used the Mobil1 Extended Performance 0w-20 at my 5k. (My Wally-World is usually sold out of the green lable 0w-20.) This time, I had a jug of the M1 economy formula 0w-20. We will see where we are at 15k.

And tickerguy, Thank You for using correct English vocabulary. Its a rare treat to find a forum user that knows "irregardless" is a non-word.


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post #9 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SVShootingStar View Post
I've just hit 30k miles on my 2014. I have no loss, ZERO, right up to my usual 5000 mile oil changes.
Thanks. Yes, this has also been my experience with almost every car or truck I've owned or driven in the last 30 years. That's why I was a little shocked to find an almost dry dipstick the other morning.

One thing for sure...I'm going to pay more attention to that dipstick from now of out!


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post #10 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-01-2017, 10:54 AM
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I have never needed to add between changes on my 2015 but when the car was new for the first couple of intervals it did burn somewhat more -- to the point that it was at the "add" point when I did the change.

It tightened up quite a bit after the first 10k miles or so.

A "new fill" with a full jug of oil puts me just over halfway between "add" and "full" on the stick, and when I go to change it at my usual 7500 mile interval I'm still over "add", maybe halfway.

If you're burning *nothing* over a full use interval (or worse, you are actually seeing an *increase* in level!) I would pull a UOA and make very sure you're not getting fuel dilution. That, if it is happening, is a good indication of an injector problem and while it usually shows up in older engines as injectors wear and produce a poor pattern manufacturing defects CAN happen. If not caught and correctly promptly it's very bad news as fuel washdown on a cylinder wall will cause excessive wear and the reduction in engine life done by that is permanent. It's a problem that used to be more-or-less confined to diesels because TBI and port injected gasoline engines dispersed the injection event enough most of the time to keep it from becoming a huge problem but any DI gas engine is at risk of it just like a diesel is.

The $20 to have a UOA run to check for that next time you change the oil is (very) cheap insurance.
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