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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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No start after engine swap

Hey guys, I recently purchased a 2004 Mazda 6, 2.3 auto. I bought it with a blown head gasket, so rather than repairing that engine I decided to swap the engine with a 2006 Ford Fusion engine. I used the write up on the happywrenching page as a guide. The car will crank but not start, I am not getting any spark. I have not checked to see if the injectors are pulsing but the plugs don't smell like gas so I am not sure that they are. I drove this car into my garage, and it ran well so I assume my sensors are good. I swapped over everything listed in the happywrenching write up (sensors, harness, intake cam, oil pan etc). Can you all help me figure this one out?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 03:40 PM
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check your fuses, you could have a blown fuse, it happens, also check if all of your wire harness sensors are in the right place. Also with swapping engines some parts need to be changed, it could be that while the swap was done the fuel pump went bad, which is common in most mazdas, when the car sits around for to long it goes bad. Also check the voltage on the alternator? that could be another reason. Your best bet is to get an OBD2 if you can and see if the ECU is sending codes. My ECU flashes when it has any codes. Also, recheck your timing, it could be that the timing is off. Theres so many things you can use as a check list to see what the fault is. If theres no gas, probably a fuel line is kinked, not plugged in, or not working. Could be that the sensors on the fuel rail aren't functioning. lol Sorry, but check a couple of those.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jdm_kitsune View Post
check your fuses, you could have a blown fuse, it happens, also check if all of your wire harness sensors are in the right place. Also with swapping engines some parts need to be changed, it could be that while the swap was done the fuel pump went bad, which is common in most mazdas, when the car sits around for to long it goes bad. Also check the voltage on the alternator? that could be another reason. Your best bet is to get an OBD2 if you can and see if the ECU is sending codes. My ECU flashes when it has any codes. Also, recheck your timing, it could be that the timing is off. Theres so many things you can use as a check list to see what the fault is. If theres no gas, probably a fuel line is kinked, not plugged in, or not working. Could be that the sensors on the fuel rail aren't functioning. lol Sorry, but check a couple of those.


I'll check the fuses, but I did not put the battery in the car until everything was already plugged in. The fuel pump is buzzing so I assume it's fine. The battery is new so the voltage at the battery for starting should be fine. The ecu does not have any stored codes, but then again it will not start, so I don't think it has had a chance to throw a code. I plan to re check the timing if I cannot pin point anything else. The fuel lines are not kinked. I am not getting spark for sure so I need to figure out why then go from there.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 11:50 AM
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The electronics between those years are quite different. There is probably a dozen different sensors and such, but visually they look the same. Id bet you forgot one of those sensors, and thats your issue. Hell it could be as simple as even just using the newer crank pulley on the older ecu.


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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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The electronics between those years are quite different. There is probably a dozen different sensors and such, but visually they look the same. Id bet you forgot one of those sensors, and thats your issue. Hell it could be as simple as even just using the newer crank pulley on the older ecu.
Yeah, I thought I got all of them swapped over. Once I verify the coil is getting 12volts and grounded properly then I will start looking at the sensors again. I wish CEL would get triggered to help point me down a path.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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I had a chance to troubleshoot a little bit. The coil does show 12v on the center pin when the key is in the on position when I ground the multi meter black lead to the battery -. But if I just hold my red lead on the center pin and probe the other two pins with the black lead I get nothing. So I am thinking I am having a grounding problem for the coil pack. I checked the two grounds on top of the transaxle that I see and they seem to be good. Since that car that is pictured (from the happywrenching write up) is a COP car and I have just one coil pack with spark plug wires I am wondering if my wiring is a little different. There is a wire that comes out a few inches below where the coil pack is plugged in and it goes to ground. I am thinking this is probably the ground for the coil. Can anyone verify this? This ground wire in question has a little black box on the end of the wire just before the ring terminal. I'm not sure what this is. Does anyone happed to know which wire should be my ground wire going to my coil? The center wire is black/white and it gets 12volts when the ignition is switched on. The other two wires, one is white and the other is black. Does anyone have a wiring diagram?


Here is the coil plug





Here is the wire that I believe is the ground for the coil. I bolted it to the throttle body in this pic and then I realized that would probably not be a good test since the t/b is bolted to a plastic manifold.



Here is one of the ground on the transaxle. It tested good, but I guess that will not rule out and actual broken wire.



This is the other ground on top of the transaxle that also tested good.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 07:28 PM
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Im not good with electronics hun I'm just used to certain things going bad on my protege because of "this" or "that"

One time we couldn't get the engine to start cause my friend blew a fuse... and it was cause he left the battery plugged in while we were fucking with the wire harness. Im new to the mazda 6, so, I gave you all of what I could offer lol.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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I changed out the crank and cam sensors...not change. Still no spark. The plugs do not smell like gas either so I assume they are not firing. I do have fuel pressure at the rail. One sensor that I did have to change out when I did the engine swap that is not really talked about is the one that bolts into the head next to the intake came closest to the timing cover. That plug got broken on the Fusion engine, so I swapped over the sensor from the mazda engine. They looked the same, but I thought I would throw it out there incase that is causing a problem.
Also, I checked the voltage at the coil while being cranked. When the key was switched on it showed about 12.5v (same as the battery). Then when cranking it drops down to about 10.5v. I am thinking this is not low enough for no spark, but again I thought I should throw it out.


**one other thing I thought of while I was looking though my pictures from the swap is that when I swapped the intake cams the bolt on the intake cam from the mazda engine came loose when I was loosening the crank shaft, so there for the cam gear turned with out the actual cam turning. So I am positive that the cam gear/sprocket is in a different orientation now than when I removed it from the mazda engine at TDC. I have no reason to believe the actual intake camshaft it's self is not a tdc, but if the actual intake gear/sprocket I am sure is not in the same position. I don't have a clue if this matters, because I don't know if there are tdc marks on the actual gear. Again, if this is a problem would it actually cause the engine not to spark?

Last edited by cardana24; 01-08-2016 at 03:22 PM.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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The car still is not starting. I re checked the timing today and it was off by a little bit so I locked everything back in place and loosened the crank bolt and re positioned the crank pulley to line up the hole in the pulley to the hole in the timing cover. I re-checked everything and it's now in time....but it still wont start, I am not getting spark and from smelling the spark plugs I don't think I am getting fuel either but the fuel pump is turning on. I am finally getting a CEL now after cranking for a little bit. I get code P0335 which is for the crank shaft position sensor, which make since because I know this will kill spark and I am pretty sure it sends the signal to turn on the fuel control ecm. I have replaced the sensor and no change. I tested the electrial connections for the senor with the key turned on and I am getting about .2 volts on one pin and about .5v on the other. I am not sure what the reading should be but I know on one of my nissans the sensors get a 5v signal. So I am thinking I may have a wiring issue in the Crank Sensor ciricut. I want to run new wires to the sensor but I am not sure where the terminate in the engine bay and I don't really want to cut all of my wire loom up. Does any one have a pin out/wiring diagram for the large connector that plugs in next to the engine bay fuse box? Thanks for any help.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazda6-a...za-2004-a.html


Some wiring diagrams were posted in this thread and I think they apply for my car. They are referring to one wire as G and the other L. The G makes sense because I have a green wire at the sensor, the other wire is light blue...is that what the L stands for? Also still not sure where these plug in at the plug in the engine bay next to the fuse box.
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