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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-28-2004, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Reading Topic: Available Now !!! ... DBA Brake Rotors .. 3 types

Hi Guys,

Thanks to those who are willing to help me out with finding additional information in this area.

I fully agree with most owners, the basic Mazda 6 brake setup is a good system, and for most owners it performs extremely well for everyday driving. For those of us who "really push" our M6's along on twisty roads or have the ocassional track day, there are some short coming to be found.

As Phil (Sixthsense) will testify ( I hope your heart rate has returned to normal) when I took him for a private 20 minute drive during our club meet in the Royal National Park, that the Mazda 6 can out handle / brake most cars I can think of in low to medium speed road conditions ... we blasted past a modified WRX who gave up in the end when he couldn't get us off of his bumper after a few kilometres of high speed twists and turns ... do you remember the look of shock on his face Phil.

Anyway, after we returned from 20 minutes of hard driving, the brakes were "cooked' ... the brake pads were smelling pretty bad and the tyres were just as hot to the touch (sorry to those who were having lunch a few feet from my car).

In these conditions some modifications are required otherwise brake fade can be a really problem. This is where the DBA Slotted and or Slotted and Cross Drilled rotors can provide additional help.

For those not "in the know" as brake pads get really HOT they emit a gas, which is a by-product of the friction on the pad material. This gas can get trapped between your pads and the disc rotor and your braking coefficient drops at an alarming rate. (Its a similar scenerio as your tyres aquaplanning on large amounts of standing water - you try and channel the water away) its the same with these gases, slots and cross-drilling removes the gases and used pad material allowing the pads better grip on the rotor ... it has nothing to do with water removal from the rotors.

Now what your looking for in aftermarket rotors (besides those looking for a cosmetic look only) are two things.

1. Actual rotor disc to be thicker and made of the best materials available.
Initially, rotor thickness is the better option than an increase in rotor diameter as they can handle more heat than thinner rotors. Large diameter rotors give greater leverage. Its a balance between both of these options.

2. The rotor carrier (hub) to be strong (some are bolt-on alloy items), yet as light as possible, to reduce unsprung weight, which will improve your suspension loading (less inertial weight of moving parts ... the better the suspension can cope).

So there are some great reasons to purchase the rotors, and yes I do like the cosmetic looks as much as anyone else.
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My "suggested" path to brake modifications follow this logical sequence (money spent vs performance gained).
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1. CHANGE BRAKE FLUID ...
I use Castrol "Response" Super DOT 4.
You'll need 3 x 500ml bottles to flush and replace the standard brake fluid.

Castrol Response Super Dot 4
Superior performance brake fluid recommended for use in all cars and light commercial vehicles that require either a DOT 3 or DOT 4 product and operate at higher temperatures or under increased loads. Suitable for both disc and drum brakes, including modern vehicles fitted with ABS systems.
HN1796, SAE J1703, JIS K2233, ISO 4925, AS/NZS 1960.1 Grade 3.

(This fluid has a higher boiling point that the standard, as well as not absorbing as much water over time as the standard fluid keeps corrision out of your braking system)

Technical Details and Comparisions:
http://www.castrol.com.au/products/pdf/Res...r%20DOT%204.pdf

COST: .. $25.00
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2. REPLACE BRAKE LINES ...
I use 4 x Earls Stainless Steel Braided Teflon Brake Lines.
(Standard rubber brake hoses flex and reduce the actual brake pressure that reaches your calipers)

NOTE. Use of Stainless-braided hose and re-usable hose ends for Brake Hoses on street-registered vehicles complying with Australian design Rule 7 is illegal.


Earls Website:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/hoses.htm

Braided Brake Line Picture:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls42.jpg

Hose End Fittings Picture:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/hose_end.htm

COST: ... $280.00 - $340.00
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3. CHANGE BRAKE PADS ...
We are still waiting for a manufacturer to bring out some semi-metallic performance pads to Australia. I have previously used EBC and Bendix Perfomance Pads to great effect in other vehicles.

(Just remember, the higher the metallic ratio is in your brake pad compound, the greater your disc rotor wear will be)


Bendix Brake Pads Selection Guide:
http://www.bendix.com.au/media/files/PadSelection.pdf

Email Reply:
We only make pads for the front of the Mazda 6. Part number DB1484.
Bendix Performax would be ideal for yor car.



EBC Brake Pad Selection Guide:
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/

Go to the EBC Catolgue - Mazda 6 2.3 litre (Page 114)

EBC Front Standard: .. Part Number: - DP1465
EBC Front Performance: ... Part Number: - DP21465
EBC Rear Standard: ... Part Number: - DP1222

(There are no rear performance pads for raesons I mentioned above)


COST: ... approx $320.00 - $520.00 (4 pairs - full set)
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4. CHANGE BRAKE ROTORS
As 75-80% of your braking is done by just the front brakes, an upgrade of the front rotors, may be all that is needed by some people to balance cost and performance.

DBA Mazda Catalogue:
http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/H...f/Out/Mazda.pdf

Front: ... DBA Part Number - 2950 (Ventilated Disc))
1. Standard Longlife = $118.20 each
2. Slotted Longlife = $250.00 each
3. Gold Longlife .. (cross drilled and slotted)

Rear: ... DBA Part Number - 2951 (Solid Disc)
1. Standard Longlife
2. Slotted Longlife



DBA Passeger Vehicle Rotor Pictures:
http://www.dba.com.au/rotors_passenger.asp

DBA Standard Longlife Rotor Description:
http://www.dba.com.au/rotors_longlife.asp

DBA Slotted Longlife Rotor Description:
http://www.dba.com.au/rotors_slotted.asp

DBA Gold Longlife (Slotted and Drilled) Rotor Description:
http://www.dba.com.au/rotors_gold.asp



EBC European Brake Disc and Drum Catalogue
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/

EBC Front Rotor: ..Part Number: - D1196 (Ventilated 283 mm diameter)
EBC Rear Rotor: .. Part Number: - D1197 (Ventilated 280mm diameter)

(The standard Mazda 6 rear rotor is solid, so having a EBC rear ventilated rotor would be a great upgrade)


COST: ... approx $1,000 - $1,500 (Set of 4) ?????
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5. CHANGE BRAKE CALIPERS / MASTER CYLINDERS
Seriously guys ... for street applications this last option doesn't give you a good balance of performance for your dollar.

For "track work" of course this is a mandatory fit.

Mono-block (1 piece non-flexing design), multi piston calipers (up to 6-8 multi-ratio pistons per caliper), floating rotors (the rotor has laterial movement on the hub)and radial mounted calipers make a huge difference.

COST: ... up to $1,500 - $2,000 per caliper

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There you have it guys, I hope I have shed a little light on the topic, and given you some idea's as to what level of brake upgrades you need.

Warren
WRW-Sydney is offline  
 
 
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