Steering shudders when braking - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum

6xy · 09-25-2009, 08:26 PM

I noticed for a while now even when we first got the car about a year ago... when stopping say around 60km/h, I find the steering wheel to judder a bit. It is not ABS as it is not pulsating feel from the pedal. I think the brakes are warped. Any idea? I wanna get it looked by the dealership on my next oil change. Car is 1-year old bought new.

kpjimmy · 09-25-2009, 08:41 PM

Was the car ever checked in regards to the brake lines? You might need to have the brake lines bled to get any air out of the system. OR better yet, flush the brake fluid and refill brand spankin new and at that time, the lines can and should be bled to ensure proper braking.

Nealio · 09-25-2009, 08:49 PM

Sounds exactly like warped rotors. Have them either machined or replaced depending on cost and how bad they are warped.

TRMM · 09-28-2009, 06:35 AM

Like it was said above, WARPED ROTOR. If car is bought brand new, poor driving habits is to blame, no other way.

MrTea · 09-28-2009, 11:38 AM

though this can be attributed to warped rotors, it's not necessarily the case, though the solution would be the same. typically on a warped rotor you would feel the issue through the brake pedal, with or without steering vibration, but it is always through the pedal usually. the reason for this is as the high/low spots in a warped rotor pass the piston, it would push the piston back in a small amount, pushing fluid back and in turn being felt by your foot....happening over and over as quickly as the wheels rotates, it's should feel like a vibration in the pedal.

though not common in the 6, an issue commonly referred to as brake judder could be the issue. especially if any non-normal driving styles have happened lately...canyon driving, stop and go followed by a long hwy drive (or the reverse), hard braking in rainy weather....but of things. essentially your brake pads heat up in a way that leaves an uneven layer of pad material on the disc, which cause the pads to now grap a bit differently in that one spot. so pedal pressure would stay the same, but as the disc rotates there is a slip/grap sensation that is transfered to the steering wheel, as the spots are never in the same spot on both discs (99% of the time it's just the front) so when the left disc passes that spot it pulls left, and opposite for the right....very quickly obviously. with a judder issue it's very common to only be felt at certain speeds, which are usually close to the speed in which the original pad layer issue happened.

...that out of the way, same fix, turn the discs or replace.

6xy · 09-30-2009, 01:23 PM

QUOTE (TRMM @ Sep 28 2009, 10:35 AM)

Quote:

Like it was said above, WARPED ROTOR. If car is bought brand new, poor driving habits is to blame, no other way.[/b]

OK I can only blame my wife. The 6 is her daily driver.

But in her defence, all her other cars never had this problem.

Anyhoo, called Mazda and they are gonna fix it under warranty.

Egierda · 09-30-2009, 02:49 PM

+1 to Tea's comment

Warped rotor and/or uneven pad deposition.

chilimax21 · 10-02-2009, 08:44 AM

Could be a sticking brake caliper piston which can cause the rotor to overheat causing warpage or leaving a layer of deposit. Thats what happened to me. On both front calipers nonetheless.

09-25-2009, 08:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
kpjimmy Super Moderator Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Long Island, NY/San Antonio, TX Posts: 4,995 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Was the car ever checked in regards to the brake lines? You might need to have the brake lines bled to get any air out of the system. OR better yet, flush the brake fluid and refill brand spankin new and at that time, the lines can and should be bled to ensure proper braking. __________________ Link to the Yellow Submarine [2003 Speed Yellow]... Come join the flickr group! http://flickr.com/groups/atenza/

09-25-2009, 08:49 PM	#3 (permalink)
Nealio Super Moderator Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Tampa/Bradenton, FL Posts: 2,440 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Sounds exactly like warped rotors. Have them either machined or replaced depending on cost and how bad they are warped. __________________ 2005 Volcanic Red Mazda6S MTX Hatch OBX - AWR - Mazdaspeed Acc. - Injen - CP-E - Greddy - ProSport - Corksport - Medieval Motorsports - Apexcone

09-28-2009, 11:38 AM	#5 (permalink)
MrTea Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 8,150 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	though this can be attributed to warped rotors, it's not necessarily the case, though the solution would be the same. typically on a warped rotor you would feel the issue through the brake pedal, with or without steering vibration, but it is always through the pedal usually. the reason for this is as the high/low spots in a warped rotor pass the piston, it would push the piston back in a small amount, pushing fluid back and in turn being felt by your foot....happening over and over as quickly as the wheels rotates, it's should feel like a vibration in the pedal. though not common in the 6, an issue commonly referred to as brake judder could be the issue. especially if any non-normal driving styles have happened lately...canyon driving, stop and go followed by a long hwy drive (or the reverse), hard braking in rainy weather....but of things. essentially your brake pads heat up in a way that leaves an uneven layer of pad material on the disc, which cause the pads to now grap a bit differently in that one spot. so pedal pressure would stay the same, but as the disc rotates there is a slip/grap sensation that is transfered to the steering wheel, as the spots are never in the same spot on both discs (99% of the time it's just the front) so when the left disc passes that spot it pulls left, and opposite for the right....very quickly obviously. with a judder issue it's very common to only be felt at certain speeds, which are usually close to the speed in which the original pad layer issue happened. ...that out of the way, same fix, turn the discs or replace. __________________ '03 Lapis(mostly) 6i...Tranny swap by Gillis Motorsports : MTX-75 5speed tranny, 4.06 gears, Torsen LSD & chromoly axles, Engine build by Gillis Motorsports: 9:1 Supertech Pistons, Crower rods, Supertech valves, springs & retainers, ARP head & main studs, F2 Stage2 Turbo, Custom F2 engine/tranny mounts, 3" Turboback exhaust, Tein Basic Coilovers, Brembo Big Brake Kit and Rotora Rear Rotors, RacingBeat Front & Rear Sways, Seibon OEM hood, VF Engineering rear engine mount, Powdercoated Valvecover, TEIN hood dampers, Some sort of Body Kit from some company usually last dyno 8/23, 10psi...260HP/267TQ Still need: Seat, cage, Gillis suspension...then i'm DONE!!

09-30-2009, 02:49 PM	#7 (permalink)
Egierda Rally Racer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ontario Posts: 1,788 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	+1 to Tea's comment Warped rotor and/or uneven pad deposition. __________________ *04' 6s MTX sedan* - Tein - TC Sportline - Seibon - AEM - Magnaflow - Cusco - Streetglow - Momo - iRotors - Hawk Performance - Maxcar - Ignited - Exile - American Bass - Legacy - TenzoR - Falken - Redline - TWM - Compustar - Racing Beat - AWR - Autometer - Lotek - AutoExe - Megan - Feather Carbon - Autolumination - Wedge Engineering - Scroth - Sparco - Sabelt - NRG - DG Motorsports - Carbon Creations - Cordova Motorsports - Sniper Tuning - Axxess - GT Spec - Tanabe - CP-E - Scangauge - Steeda - Hella - Aero Catch - ELF Racing - Stoptech - Car_LED - ARP - Project Kics

10-02-2009, 08:44 AM	#8 (permalink)
chilimax21 Track Racer Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Queens,NY Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Could be a sticking brake caliper piston which can cause the rotor to overheat causing warpage or leaving a layer of deposit. Thats what happened to me. On both front calipers nonetheless. __________________ 2003 Mazda 6s- Konis all around, Progress Rear Sway, Hid in Lows, EBC Ultimax Sport Rotos w/ EBC Redstuffs, PIAA 1000XT's, 225/45/17 Toyo Proxes 4's and Ecsta's, Cntinental Extreme Contitacts, MSDS headers w/Magnaflow spun metallic cat w/stock exhaust

09-25-2009, 08:26 PM	#1 (permalink)
6xy Track Racer Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 198 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	I noticed for a while now even when we first got the car about a year ago... when stopping say around 60km/h, I find the steering wheel to judder a bit. It is not ABS as it is not pulsating feel from the pedal. I think the brakes are warped. Any idea? I wanna get it looked by the dealership on my next oil change. Car is 1-year old bought new.

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Mazda 6 Club Advertisement

09-28-2009, 06:35 AM	#4 (permalink)
TRMM Learners License Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Like it was said above, WARPED ROTOR. If car is bought brand new, poor driving habits is to blame, no other way.