How to remove rear rotor - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum

2004SGM · 08-05-2009, 08:53 PM

I found the how-to on changing the rear pads, but it didn't say anything about the rotors. Can I simply pop the rear rotor off if I get the caliper off? And if anyone has a how-to on the rotor, please let me know.

Thanks guys,

MrTea · 08-05-2009, 08:57 PM

just remove that screw and pull it off. if it sticks, just beat on it with a mallot, i put a lug nut on there so when it breaks free it doesn't go flying as well.

2004SGM · 08-05-2009, 09:02 PM

QUOTE (MrTea @ Aug 5 2009, 08:57 PM)

Quote:

just remove that screw and pull it off. if it sticks, just beat on it with a mallot, i put a lug nut on there so when it breaks free it doesn't go flying as well.[/b]

I didn't know the rear rotors also had the screws in them? I was told that the front screws are most likely seized on there. Is that likely the case with the rears as well?

dfw6er · 08-05-2009, 09:04 PM

you've got an '04 and live in Michigan.....I bet those rotor screws are gonna be a bitch to get loose. I'd get an impact driver ($20 for a craftsman one you strike with a hammer).....it'll make getting those screws out much easier. If that fails you may need to drill out the screws. Once you put a new rotor on, there's no need to reinstall those screws.
Another option to remove the rotor if you don't want to hit it with a mallet is to use the rotor screw you extracted and screw it into the third hole that didn't have a screw in it.....as you screw it in, it'll push the rotor off the hub. When you reinstall a new rotor, apply some antiseize to the back of the rotor where it mates with the hub and hopefully the next time you change rotors, it'll come off with little effort.

And yes, each rotor has 2 screws holding it in place...they serve no function now, but were used during the assembly process to hold the rotors in place. Once you put the wheels back on the studs and tighten the lugs down, the wheel will hold the rotor snugly in place on the hub.

2004SGM · 08-05-2009, 09:44 PM

QUOTE (dfw6er @ Aug 5 2009, 09:04 PM)

Quote:

you've got an '04 and live in Michigan.....I bet those rotor screws are gonna be a bitch to get loose. I'd get an impact driver ($20 for a craftsman one you strike with a hammer).....it'll make getting those screws out much easier. If that fails you may need to drill out the screws. Once you put a new rotor on, there's no need to reinstall those screws.
Another option to remove the rotor if you don't want to hit it with a mallet is to use the rotor screw you extracted and screw it into the third hole that didn't have a screw in it.....as you screw it in, it'll push the rotor off the hub. When you reinstall a new rotor, apply some antiseize to the back of the rotor where it mates with the hub and hopefully the next time you change rotors, it'll come off with little effort.

And yes, each rotor has 2 screws holding it in place...they serve no function now, but were used during the assembly process to hold the rotors in place. Once you put the wheels back on the studs and tighten the lugs down, the wheel will hold the rotor snugly in place on the hub.[/b]

Thanks!

Tillys 6 · 09-28-2009, 12:23 PM

I just replaced the front rotors and pads this weekend. The rotors were seized to the hubs. It was rather difficult to remove them...mallet and wd40 to loosen up the rust. Had to drill out the rotor screws as they were seized.

The rears are the same way? Does anybody know if the rears have drum brakes inside them? I know on some cars, the rears have a drum brake inside them for the e-brake.

2004SGM · 09-28-2009, 12:32 PM

QUOTE (Tillys 6 @ Sep 28 2009, 12:23 PM)

Quote:

I just replaced the front rotors and pads this weekend. The rotors were seized to the hubs. It was rather difficult to remove them...mallet and wd40 to loosen up the rust. Had to drill out the rotor screws as they were seized.

The rears are the same way? Does anybody know if the rears have drum brakes inside them? I know on some cars, the rears have a drum brake inside them for the e-brake.[/b]

No, the rears are just like the fronts, except you use a caliper tool to screw the piston back in instead of clamping it.

Tillys 6 · 09-30-2009, 01:08 PM

QUOTE (2004SGM @ Sep 28 2009, 12:32 PM)

Quote:

No, the rears are just like the fronts, except you use a caliper tool to screw the piston back in instead of clamping it.[/b]

Sweet! I've changed the pads out once on the rears...so I know about setting the piston back.

08-05-2009, 08:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
2004SGM Drivers License Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 90 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	I found the how-to on changing the rear pads, but it didn't say anything about the rotors. Can I simply pop the rear rotor off if I get the caliper off? And if anyone has a how-to on the rotor, please let me know. Thanks guys, __________________ 2004 Steel Gray Metallic 2.3 2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0

08-05-2009, 08:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
MrTea Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 8,150 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	just remove that screw and pull it off. if it sticks, just beat on it with a mallot, i put a lug nut on there so when it breaks free it doesn't go flying as well. __________________ '03 Lapis(mostly) 6i...Tranny swap by Gillis Motorsports : MTX-75 5speed tranny, 4.06 gears, Torsen LSD & chromoly axles, Engine build by Gillis Motorsports: 9:1 Supertech Pistons, Crower rods, Supertech valves, springs & retainers, ARP head & main studs, F2 Stage2 Turbo, Custom F2 engine/tranny mounts, 3" Turboback exhaust, Tein Basic Coilovers, Brembo Big Brake Kit and Rotora Rear Rotors, RacingBeat Front & Rear Sways, Seibon OEM hood, VF Engineering rear engine mount, Powdercoated Valvecover, TEIN hood dampers, Some sort of Body Kit from some company usually last dyno 8/23, 10psi...260HP/267TQ Still need: Seat, cage, Gillis suspension...then i'm DONE!!

08-05-2009, 09:04 PM	#4 (permalink)
dfw6er Rally Racer Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Flower Mound, TX Posts: 1,327 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	you've got an '04 and live in Michigan.....I bet those rotor screws are gonna be a bitch to get loose. I'd get an impact driver ($20 for a craftsman one you strike with a hammer).....it'll make getting those screws out much easier. If that fails you may need to drill out the screws. Once you put a new rotor on, there's no need to reinstall those screws. Another option to remove the rotor if you don't want to hit it with a mallet is to use the rotor screw you extracted and screw it into the third hole that didn't have a screw in it.....as you screw it in, it'll push the rotor off the hub. When you reinstall a new rotor, apply some antiseize to the back of the rotor where it mates with the hub and hopefully the next time you change rotors, it'll come off with little effort. And yes, each rotor has 2 screws holding it in place...they serve no function now, but were used during the assembly process to hold the rotors in place. Once you put the wheels back on the studs and tighten the lugs down, the wheel will hold the rotor snugly in place on the hub. __________________ 2003 Performance White 6s MTX, CPE CAI MAF-CI, Xtec 5000K HIDs, Superwhite LEDs, TB bypass, EGR mod, Iridium NGKs, 25% tint, clear sidemarkers w/ turn signal mod, brakelight mod, SU MM, MazdaSpeed Short Throw Shifter, Custom Exhaust: 12" glass pak resonator and axle-back Str8s, Flat Black painted bezels, Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Fidanza Flywheel, ceramic pads, Redline MT-90, Mobil-1 0W-20 and Mobil-1 Mercon V PS fluid

09-28-2009, 12:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
Tillys 6 Track Racer Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Syracuse, NY Posts: 153 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	I just replaced the front rotors and pads this weekend. The rotors were seized to the hubs. It was rather difficult to remove them...mallet and wd40 to loosen up the rust. Had to drill out the rotor screws as they were seized. The rears are the same way? Does anybody know if the rears have drum brakes inside them? I know on some cars, the rears have a drum brake inside them for the e-brake. __________________ 2004 Mazda 6 s - Blazing Copper Metallic, 5 sp, leather, dark tint all around, black NA 06' Tails, Yoko Avid V4s on Stock Rims, Black G2 Calipers, shaved door mouldings, debadge rear, black flying "M" front and rear. My 2004 Copper 6 s

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