Misconception? Warped Rotors & TSB

[Blue Solrac]

TSB 04-004/04 (the brake moaning and/or juddering)

I am experiancing the break juddering as described in the TSB above. I printed out the TSB and noticed that the applicable models were the 2003-2004 models built before October 2003. My 6 however, was built in January 2004. Even though I am experiancing the same issues as described in the TSB, can I still be charged for rotor resurfacing because of the production date technicality? My brake pads are fairly worn and so I have a strong premonition that the dealer will pull a "oh you just need new pads, your rotors are fine" line. I'm at 26,000 miles so I'm past the 12,000 mark. Anyone else have an '04 with similar problems?

[Blue Solrac]

Well I was doing a bit of research online, when I came across this article. I'm sure it has been posted sometime in the past, but it's the first time I have seen it. After reading the article I am now under the impression that the break juddering I am experiancing is caused by the uneven build-up of friction material, rather than warped rotors. Is the purpose of re-surfacing rotors to remove this material? I am going to be installing the Hawk HPS break pads and wonder whether rotor re-surfacing is still beneficial?

[Odonut123]

just a quick response...anytime u install new pads it is always recommended u resurface the rotors..that way ur starting with a flat surface on a flat surface vs a flat surface (new pads) and a possibly uneven surface (rotors)

[Blue Solrac]

Originally posted by Odonut123@Jun 2 2005, 07:29 PM
just a quick response...anytime u install new pads it is always recommended u resurface the rotors..that way ur starting with a flat surface on a flat surface vs a flat surface (new pads) and a possibly uneven surface (rotors)

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Will do. Thanks.

[crossbow]

Warped rotors are primarily caused by mistorquing the lug nuts. If you end up with a warped rotor, and end up getting it replaced (either under warranty or at your cost), make sure to buy a torque wrench, and the proper socket size for your lugs.

After every dealer visit, after every tire shop visit, go and check the torque settings on all the lugs. They should be 87 ft/lbs, NO MORE.

I'd say 75% of the problems on this forum involving warped rotors are due from improper torquing from shops, dealerships, and owners.

And the TSB only applies to those build dates. Newer cars should already have those parts installed. They may be revising the dates on the TSB, but they haven't as of yet.

[jsherrill28]

so are most dealer services not aware of over-torqueing and the effect on your rotors? or are they just too lazy to check? frick, i just got my tires rotated......

[crossbow]

Too lazy to check. Sometimes the tech's just use an impact, and forget to check torque ratings.

Its best to always check yourself.

[garrick]

Originally posted by crossbow@Jun 3 2005, 05:36 AM
After every dealer visit, after every tire shop visit, go and check the torque settings on all the lugs.* They should be 87 ft/lbs, NO MORE.

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But if the lug nuts are already over-torqued, which they probably are after a shop visit, how should one "check the torque settings"?

Strictly speaking, you'd need to lift the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts (i.e., bring all torques to zero), then re-torque in stages with your torque wrench... For example, I bring all lug nuts on a wheel to 30 ft-lbs, then to 60 ft-lbs, then to 90 (spec for my 'Tour). Okay, the "in stages" part is rather anal, but it lets me make sure the wheel is fully seated against the hub/rotor before any one lug nut gets up to full clamping force.

Better yet, use a shop that will let you back in the service area, and torque the lug nuts right the first time with your own torque wrench while the car is still on the lift.

[jsherrill28]

Originally posted by garrick@Jun 3 2005, 08:55 AM
Better yet, use a shop that will let you back in the service area, and torque the lug nuts right the first time with your own torque wrench while the car is still on the lift.

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huh? that makes no sense to me. how are you going to torque you lugs if the wheel isn't on the ground. won't it spin as you try to tighten?

i would think that you check for improper torque by simply using your wrench. under-torqued, your wrench will tighten to the set ft/lbs. over-torqued, your wrench will give out once the set ft/lbs are reached, in which case you loosen your lugs and retighten using your wrench.

is this right crossbow???

[mbrogz3000]

If you can torque all the nuts to 87 ft/lbs, off the ground and in stages (to avoid binding the nut), without the wheel spinning, then additional torquing shouldn't be necessary.