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#1 (permalink) |
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I haven't seen this discussed yet. I havent heard much in general on the H&R setup for our car. So which one is actually better? I see the most common setup is the BC coilovers. I see that is works for both the mazda 6 and speed 6. So would the H&R's be at an advantage since they are for the speed6 only?
My question is what is the difference between the 2 as far as lowering? Which one will actually lower the car the most? I hear from a friend that the BC's will lower the car so much you can't really drive it. But on the other hand I believe skater told me his are set at the lowest setting. Which seems pretty driveable and maybe a half inch lower than where my car sits. Also would the H&R's be better since they are made specifically for the speed 6? Possibly handle the weight better? I see there is only a 200 dollar difference between the 2. just wondering if it is worth it. I actually want my car to sit an inch lower than what it is now. I know that may sound rediculous since it will probably ride terrible. But is it that bad?
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#2 (permalink) |
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I have the H&R kit and I like it, but I cant compare it to the BC's... I can tell you though its pretty stiff. Ride is controllable and I did track my car twice last yr and it handled pretty well...
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6 sport #01820- Whitewater Pearl COBB AP(Stage1+SF+TIH+IC 93), COBB SRI, HKS SSQV, custom FMIC, BSD w/PTP baffle, Top Fuel CC, J-Speed inc. SSP w/TWM stage 1, Momo Tuner steering wheel w/NRG quick release hub, STRI Xline Boost, Sparco R100, Delrin Knob w/shifter Extension, Corksport front strut & rear bar, Megan H-Bar, H&R coilovers, Whiteline RSB, Magnaflow cat-back, ATP DP/vibrant performance HF cat, vibrant performance resonator, Drag DR-34 18x8 et47, Falken Ziex 235-40/18. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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How about the drop?
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#4 (permalink) |
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You can def drop this kit very low... When I first installed it, I was rubbing and bottoming out, meaning I was too low that I would dip into a small uhm dip and I would scrape... lol, hope that helps. But to be honest, I would get the BC over the H&R cause it has adjustability of the rebound and such the H&R's dont. Also its cheaper too, but it is a well made and well known brand. Its up to you really... I think it says in their website that, initial drop is between 1.2" to 2", I hope thats low enough for you...
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6 sport #01820- Whitewater Pearl COBB AP(Stage1+SF+TIH+IC 93), COBB SRI, HKS SSQV, custom FMIC, BSD w/PTP baffle, Top Fuel CC, J-Speed inc. SSP w/TWM stage 1, Momo Tuner steering wheel w/NRG quick release hub, STRI Xline Boost, Sparco R100, Delrin Knob w/shifter Extension, Corksport front strut & rear bar, Megan H-Bar, H&R coilovers, Whiteline RSB, Magnaflow cat-back, ATP DP/vibrant performance HF cat, vibrant performance resonator, Drag DR-34 18x8 et47, Falken Ziex 235-40/18. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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i'm leaning towards bc's. So you are saying its 1.2-2" adjusted all the way up?
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#6 (permalink) |
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This is not even close to how low the car can go with the BCs. If I remember correctly I still had 4 more inches left on the adjustment. You can get the car to go as low as you want. Also the invite is to open to come check them out yourself on my car. These things are def. stiff.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Thanks ozzmannt. Thats the way your car is sitting now right? Just curious how low you can go before your suspension travel stops you. I can see it now I am going to have to remove my resonated midpipe. That thing is 3" from the ground now. I'm thinking of dropping the rear down to level out the car.
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#8 (permalink) |
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How are you going to fit all that tire and wheel in there with another inch lower? It looks like your pretty flush right now. I'm just curious.
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2008 Mazda 6s ATX ~ 35%-15% Tint ~ VG Shark Fin ~ 2 MTX 12" Subs ~ Power Akoustic 900 Watt Amp ~ HID in Fogs ~ Custom Auxiliary Input ~ Interior Red+White LEDS ~ Custom Straight Pipes w/ 3" tips ~ Tom Tom hard wired ~ Cobra 9500 hard wired ~ Fog Light Mod ~ Brake Light Mod ~ Air Box Mod ~ Tinted Side-markers ~ HD Lip |
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#9 (permalink) |
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The rears dont rub at all. Even when squated all the way down. I have a couple mm's to spare. The fronts have rather positive camber right now. Probably add more negative camber on the fronts so they clear. I'll try to make it work.
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#10 (permalink) |
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No my car is a little higher right now. I don't think I was too far off from bottoming out when I had it slammed down in the rear. The front is a different story.
My major problem was the fact that I scraped the section of the exhaust where it goes under the suspension/rear diff. I would hit that section of the exhaust EVERYWHERE when I was that low. You already had the SPC adjustable balljoints right? This is the height you saw my car at:
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