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#1 (permalink) |
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I just installed my new ball joints the other day and already got an alignment. Got my front camber at -1.15 now versus the .2 it was previously at before the ball joints which was eating my front tires up. Going back through the how to, it looks like i might have missed a step in the attached picture. When i tightened the control arms back up, the car was still jacked up, and i don't believe i held them up when tightening them so that they were perpendicular to the car. I think i just tightened them when they were down. I have noticed since the install and alignment, my car seems to be riding a little rougher and i seem to get some more vibration at speeds above 80 than before the install. Would tightening the cross arms in the wrong position cause this? Should i just jack the car up again, loosen the control arms, set them to parallel with the ground and re tighten, or is there a better trick? With the car on jack stands, should i jack up the suspension so the suspension is under pressure, then tighten them? If i do this, will this effect my alignment, and will i have to go get another alignment? Thanks
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6. STOCK 13.679 @ 98.7mph |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Mazda Guru
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well as long as u dont remove the balljoint and you just loosen the control arm and re tighten it you should be ok. i dont know why that would cause a problem in the first place. your new alignment could be why your feeling some vibes since your suspension has a new and way diff geometry.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Track Racer
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If your alignment is too aggressive, that might cause a rougher ride at higher speed.
When I got my alignment, the mechanic said 1.2 would be a little extreme for day 2 day driving, and better for AutoX. He agreed factory spec wasn't good, but said I'd probably be chewin' up tires past 1.0. He set mine at about 1.0 and the car rides beautifully, and tracks better too. It seems each 6 has its own Happy Place when it comes to alignment. Now I need a rear fender roll to complete the suspension lowering...rubbing=bad.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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QUOTE (kilkenny @ Sep 10 2009, 10:32 AM)
Quote:
loosened the control arm bolts on one side and didn't loosen then on the second. There was no detectable difference, other than there was less to do and it was quicker! |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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QUOTE (TopazM3 @ Sep 12 2009, 02:49 PM)
Quote:
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#6 (permalink) | |
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QUOTE (kilkenny @ Sep 12 2009, 06:54 PM)
Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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I haven't personally removed the MS6 control arms, but it is a good rule of thumb is to tighten bushing with the suspension at ride height. The reason for this is so that the bushings are in their operating range. It is possible that tightening any bushing while the suspension is at full rebound will create an excessive amount of torsional pre-load which can translate more vibrations into the body.
The vibration could also be a result of the alignment as well. If it were me, I would check the alignment as well as check the wheel for balance and out of round. (I have had lots of out of round vibrations in Detroit, where the road are notorious for bending wheels) |
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