Brakes wearing unevenly

[Turbo6Girl]

I will post pictures when I get home, the pads are in my trunk and the camera is at home.

We changed the pads last night, got the pads off and noticed that the driver's side pad had a fair bit of pad left and the passenger side was near metal on metal. So, I need to know what could cause this so I can start narrowing things down.

- When driving on a flat surface, letting the wheel go and braking the car does not pull to either side, it remains straight.
- Both rotors appeared to be worn evenly

Fire away with any questions, suggestions, etc.

[aviator79]

little air buble in the driverside line/caliper.
I noticed on my passenger side rear the bleeder was very corroded as if it had some air or water rather than direct contact to the brake fluid. I guess ideally it would be in contact with the chanfered seat so maybe there was a high spot...iduno. Didnt compare the pads but will but dont think they will be any different. I think yours maybe the fluid slightly boiled on the driver side or maybe it always had a little air in the line/caliper. Thats all I can think that would cause it...

[Turbo6Girl]

Thanks.

Would that cause the driver's side not to compress as much as the passenger side? I did beat these pads up pretty good in the near 60K miles they were on the car so it sounds like one of the many reasonable possibilities.

[aviator79]

Its just my guess, but air is compressable, fluid is not (really) compressable. So when the fluid goes down the line as you hit the break, the passenger side piston in pushed out onto the pad compressing the rotor and the driver side just squeezes the bubble compressing it, creating a hight pressure so that not much force reaches the piston. Would have noticed it as a pull in the front but in the back, unless you slammed them and saw that your rear swung out to driverside I think, you would probably never notice. Best to keep an eye on wear better to detect such a probelm early on. Would have likely prolonged the life of your pads.

[Turbo6Girl]

60K miles on stock pads isn't too bad so I can't really complain with that. These pads will be changed again soon when I decide to upgrade rotors but in the meantime I will be keeping an eye out on them to see if there is any uneven wear.

[aviator79]

well when you bleed out the line you should be fine. You might atually see the bubble if you were to use speeed bleeders hooked up to a hose. I wish I went with Blue as I have no idea if I actually did a complete flush.

[Turbo6Girl]

We didn't bleed the entire system as I didn't have the time. My mechanic is going to hook me up on doing that for me for a very reasonable price ($15) when I get it done. But we did do a partial bleed to make sure there was no air in the lines after the brake install, so that should suffice for now. The new brakes definitely feel better, no more godawful noise.

[aviator79]

yea 60K is good, I guess its more a safety thing to be concerned about as no matter what the reason was you were not getting as much braking force on the driver side and that cound help induce a spin I think. Did you use the autozone tool. That was definitly worth having.

[Turbo6Girl]

Yeah, I don't care much about having to replace the pads but I definitely care that it is doing that.

Which AutoZone tool? We just used a C-Clamp to compress the pad against the piston/caliper then did the pump, pump, hold bleed technique.

[aviator79]

I meen to push the piston back into the caliper as it has to turn as it goes in.