The DIY Alignment Story

[knyghtryda]

Lessons Learned:
Simple does not mean easy.
Easy does not mean correct.
Correct does not mean perfect.

[jmhinkle]

I guess I'm lucky 'cause we have a local shop that is known statewide for their alignments. They actually drive the car first then put it on the machine to see where it's at and discuss anything they noticed during driving. They then set the specs to what it should be or what you want and you can watch if you prefer. I saw them move around while he was adjusting, but when it was all said and done he shook the car a bit and it settled back in where it was set to. They took it out for another drive and thru it back on the machine for one more check and then discuss what they think it needs or if it's done. $92 ish after taxes and he was impressed with the settings I asked for. Didn't care for the SPC balljoints though and said to watch them for slipping. Haven't had any yet though.

[kiseliok]

alignment is definitely not a "small change" and it drastically improves drivability and increases the zoom-zoom factor. Glad you like your new setup. I felt awesome after the first track day with new alignment - car handles sooo much better! ZOMFG!

[jd42]

QUOTE (knyghtryda @ Dec 31 2008, 03:51 AM)

However, if you need to make changes that require jacking up the car (like the front camber with adjustable balljoints) you either have to be really careful not to disturb your setup, or make and measure your adjustment, drop the car, and recalibrate.[/b]

Unsatisfied with local shops abilities to get my alignment right (and because I'm cheap and don't like other people touching my car), I started performing my own alignments myself the "old-fashioned way" (details below). The entire process takes me 6~7 hours, and the ball joints are responsible for a good chunk of that time. Since the car needs to be jacked up to access them, after making an adjustment, I bounce the suspension at each corner before measuring camber (to ensure everything is properly settled).

QUOTE (knyghtryda @ Dec 31 2008, 03:51 AM)

Lessons Learned:</span>
Simple does not mean easy.
Easy does not mean correct.
Correct does not mean perfect.[/b]

I like you summary. Alignments are definitely a very difficult thing to get right, and patience is very important.

<div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE (jmhinkle @ Dec 31 2008, 08:39 AM) <div class=\'quotemain\'>Didn't care for the SPC balljoints though and said to watch them for slipping. Haven't had any yet though.[/b][/quote]
<span style="color:#FF0000">I have noticed the ball joints need re-torquing a couple of times after completing an alignment. After driving 50 miles or so, I was very surprised how much they had loosened. I recommend checking them each day for at least three days to ensure they don't start to slip later and screw up a careful alignment.

Details:
For those curious about my alignment method, here are the details. Since caster isn't adjustable, I stick to camber and toe. Caster can be measured using the same setup, but it is rather involved.

First order is to get the car level. I use a 4-way line level I made from clear tuning and some tees, filled with colored water. One end is taped to each wheel hub and squares of wood and cardboard are added under each tire until the water level is the same at each wheel. I use a couple of sheets of smooth plywood with grease between them to ensure the suspension can settle properly without the tire "binding" to the ground. This process can take up to an hour by itself.

I measure camber at all 4 wheels using a plumb bob and a precision ruler. I measure the difference in distance between the rim and vertical string at top and bottom. Combined with the rim diameter and some trigonometry, the camber angle can be calculated. (The sine of the camber angle equals the ratio of the spacing difference to the rim diameter.)

Toe is simple to measure once I set up some strings parallel to the car at wheel hub level. The trick is that the two strings must be parallel to each other and parallel to the center line of the car. This can be determined by matching the string spacing to the rear hubs on each side and the spacing the the front hubs on each side. Combined with measurements from string-to-string at the front and rear, there are six measurements (3 pairs) that need to be matched. Once these are correct, toe can be checked by measuring the spacing from the string to the front and rear rim edges.

[FORZDA 1]

QUOTE (jd42 @ Dec 31 2008, 10:32 AM)

Unsatisfied with local shops abilities to get my alignment right (and because I'm cheap and don't like other people touching my car), I started performing my own alignments myself the "old-fashioned way" (details below). The entire process takes me 6~7 hours, and the ball joints are responsible for a good chunk of that time. Since the car needs to be jacked up to access them, after making an adjustment, I bounce the suspension at each corner before measuring camber (to ensure everything is properly settled).


I like you summary. Alignments are definitely a very difficult thing to get right, and patience is very important.


I have noticed the ball joints need re-torquing a couple of times after completing an alignment. After driving 50 miles or so, I was very surprised how much they had loosened. I recommend checking them each day for at least three days to ensure they don't start to slip later and screw up a careful alignment.

Details:
For those curious about my alignment method, here are the details. Since caster isn't adjustable, I stick to camber and toe. Caster can be measured using the same setup, but it is rather involved.

First order is to get the car level. I use a 4-way line level I made from clear tuning and some tees, filled with colored water. One end is taped to each wheel hub and squares of wood and cardboard are added under each tire until the water level is the same at each wheel. I use a couple of sheets of smooth plywood with grease between them to ensure the suspension can settle properly without the tire "binding" to the ground. This process can take up to an hour by itself.

I measure camber at all 4 wheels using a plumb bob and a precision ruler. I measure the difference in distance between the rim and vertical string at top and bottom. Combined with the rim diameter and some trigonometry, the camber angle can be calculated. (The sine of the camber angle equals the ratio of the spacing difference to the rim diameter.)

Toe is simple to measure once I set up some strings parallel to the car at wheel hub level. The trick is that the two strings must be parallel to each other and parallel to the center line of the car. This can be determined by matching the string spacing to the rear hubs on each side and the spacing the the front hubs on each side. Combined with measurements from string-to-string at the front and rear, there are six measurements (3 pairs) that need to be matched. Once these are correct, toe can be checked by measuring the spacing from the string to the front and rear rim edges.[/b]

Now THIS is the proper way to get your alignment correct and exact. I use a SmartCamber tool to check/adjust the camber now rather than the plumb bob and ruler though. I use the industrial floor tiles under each wheel to set the car level and apply grease under the top tile to free the tire from side loads. It still takes upwards of 4-7 hours to get it right, but it will be RIGHT and repeatable every time you check it. My autocross car has not deviated from my settings in more than 10 years of racing. The high dollar alignment machines will indeed be different every time you check your car. This is the reason and motivation for most of the dumbass alignment technicians selling annual alignments because they go "out" of spec. Bullshit, the only way they deviate is through the test equipment/setup or bent/failed components. Good job jd42...

[jd42]

QUOTE (FORZDA 1 @ Dec 31 2008, 12:34 PM)

Now THIS is the proper way to get your alignment correct and exact.[/b]

Thanks for the positive comments. I'm not sure how "correct and exact" my method is, but I'm confident it is better than just "in spec", especially considering Mazda's very wide specifications. I'm sure there is a certain degree of error I have to live with due to my "crude" measuring equipment. If any rim has runout issues, the accuracy will be seriously limited. Plus, I still need to work out a convenient way to measure caster without a lot of work.

The downside of this method over the fancy machines is the time involved, but I'm a big fan of DIY techniques and not having to rely on others. At some point I should create a nice writeup of this method with some diagrams so others might be encouraged to try it.

QUOTE (FORZDA 1 @ Dec 31 2008, 12:34 PM)

I use a SmartCamber tool to check/adjust the camber now rather than the plumb bob and ruler though.[/b]

Is that one of those gadgets that clamps to the rim and has a bubble level with camber marks? I tried one of those and couldn't get repeatable results. The lips of my rims are rounded and I don't think the tool clamped on the same way every time.

[superskaterxes]

wow bro haha. when i brought my car to the place that fixed it after my accident. they used the same machine. i had EXACTLY -1.3/-1.5 F/R and the exact toe in i asked for. they never fail to impress me. total cost was 90 bucks

[Cheezit]

The diy method reminds of something I read in turbo tuner except they used pendulums hanging from the rims I think its an 05 issue if any one has it. They did on a 240 and I think it took them like 4-5 hours to do it

[FORZDA 1]

QUOTE (jd42 @ Dec 31 2008, 04:58 PM)

......Is that one of those gadgets that clamps to the rim and has a bubble level with camber marks? I tried one of those and couldn't get repeatable results. The lips of my rims are rounded and I don't think the tool clamped on the same way every time.[/b]

The SmartCamber is basically a digital level (+/- 0.01 deg) installed into an aluminum frame to position against or clamp on the wheel as you said. Mine works great... I have the bubble level designed tool as well. It works better for caster. You can check Caster very easily with a camber tool as well. You just turn wheels ~15 deg left, zero the tool and turn 15 deg right and measure the angle. Simple. You must turn the wheels the same amount each way though. Just use tape and tape a ruller or smalldiameter dowel ont ot ture at the bottom near the ground to use as a measure indicator. the acutual angle (15 deg) is the standard for calculating caster, but anything close will do just fine as long as you turn the same in both directions. You're mainly interested in any difference left/right.

[aviator79]

bump