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Old 12-28-2012, 12:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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My decision to have CP-e do the work are: The car is there for other related work. I could have decided to go with a stage 1 build at less cost. Doing the work in my garage would not be looked upon well by my wife nor the neighbors. It is cold and would take me a while to work on with no time due to work and family. Paying for labor and expertise. So for DIYs, it will be less costly.

I have read many engines popping for no reason and a lot because of detonation issues. Mine was a valve train issue and past warranty. The intent of the OP is to share with the MS6 community an engine build that some will face or not. Hopefully, more to come in the future.
I have often thought about doing a diy engine build/install but of course I doubt the warranty would carry over if I were to do it in my garage with my friends, so by having CP-e install your new engine, what is the warranty of their work that this sort of thing or something worse doesn't happen again? And upon install error, just in case their is any, will they back it up by fixing/replacing anything broken like their lifetime warranty states?
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Good luck with this; while CP-E charges steep prices, they do also make high quality product! Keep us posted with lots of pics
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:55 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have often thought about doing a diy engine build/install but of course I doubt the warranty would carry over if I were to do it in my garage with my friends, so by having CP-e install your new engine, what is the warranty of their work that this sort of thing or something worse doesn't happen again? And upon install error, just in case their is any, will they back it up by fixing/replacing anything broken like their lifetime warranty states?
Good questions. I know they warranty their products. So the short block and clutch will be covered. With any mechanics warranty, I hope they cover something that was installed incorrectly. I know when removing the engine there are a lot of factors to remember and re-install. All the bolts, connectors, AC, coolant, heat. drive train, exhaust, intake. clutch, ground straps. whew, that's just a lot for me. I am hoping they are the DISI specialist and will not forget stuff. They hope so too. LOL. Chunie and Darren seem to to be stand up guys and have work with these engines a lot longer than I.
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RPM: Sport Springs, Shark Fin, LED side markers
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Good questions. I know they warranty their products. So the short block and clutch will be covered. With any mechanics warranty, I hope they cover something that was installed incorrectly. I know when removing the engine there are a lot of factors to remember and re-install. All the bolts, connectors, AC, coolant, heat. drive train, exhaust, intake. clutch, ground straps. whew, that's just a lot for me. I am hoping they are the DISI specialist and will not forget stuff. They hope so too. LOL. Chunie and Darren seem to to be stand up guys and have work with these engines a lot longer than I.
My head just got dizzy for a sec after that list lol. Hopefully it won't come to that point though. Especially considering they manufacture parts for us haha. The best of luck with the new engine!

BTW what is the estimated time for the entire swap and getting your car back on the road?
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GTX3071, Cobb AP, HTP3.5" Intake, Streetunit TMIC, M2 DP, TurboSmart BOV, Grimmspeed EBCS, AT Internals, GP Werks BSD & Baffle, Denso ITV22, TWM Stage 2, Dashhawk, JBR OCC, JBR TB TIG, SURE IM TIG, VTCS Delete, Ford Transit Oil Filter Conversion, Clean Valves!
LED tail lights, 20% tint, EVO X rims and VG Sharkfin
Big Turbo baby!
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My head just got dizzy for a sec after that list lol. Hopefully it won't come to that point though. Especially considering they manufacture parts for us haha. The best of luck with the new engine!

BTW what is the estimated time for the entire swap and getting your car back on the road?
I'm not sure. They took the engine out in a day. They send out a cylinder head for service (actually not mine). Chunie said they would like to do it quickly. I said I could work with them between their other jobs. I am in no hurry and would not like them to rush through it. I figured if I cut them some slack, they would appreciate that and return the favor. They said they would take care of me. CP-e are good guys. Just to be clear. I owe CP-e about $2K in work I authorized and a AP ordered. So I am hoping the engine build is somewhere around $8K-$9K.
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RPM: Sport Springs, Shark Fin, LED side markers
HKS: BOV
CP-e: CDFP, TIP, Xcel CAI, Catted DP, BOV Flange, gauge pod, TMIC, Safeseals, Stage 2 block, Stage 1 clutch

Last edited by Poohster; 12-29-2012 at 01:02 PM. Reason: grammar and added info.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You could have gotten a long block from Mazda for $3500 I do beleave ..
All you had yo do was bolt your intake/exhaust manifolds and accessories on ..
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:04 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You could have gotten a long block from Mazda for $3500 I do beleave ..
All you had yo do was bolt your intake/exhaust manifolds and accessories on ..
Thanks, I did hear that the genpu engines were forged pistons (still powder forged rods?) but not sleeved. Since, my car wasn't in running condition at CP-e, I would have to tow it (1 hr) to the dealer near me and that would have cost me. I wanted the Stage 2 block. If funding was really tight then I would have went with a Stage1 build. I'm not complaining about the costs. It will be what it will be. I still don't have the luxury of time to wrench.

Good to know as an option for others. There was always an option to have Speed6 Killah rebuild my engine but he is about 3.5 hrs away from CP-e.
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RPM: Sport Springs, Shark Fin, LED side markers
HKS: BOV
CP-e: CDFP, TIP, Xcel CAI, Catted DP, BOV Flange, gauge pod, TMIC, Safeseals, Stage 2 block, Stage 1 clutch
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:09 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Forged all the way. Can't wait till I get my block back...
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Hell yeah!!. Update. CP-e has installed my engine. Swapped over everything. Installed a new water pump, stage 1 CP-e clutch, black crinkle valve cover and time chain cover and an Cobb AP. So far CP-e has cut me a break on costs. Took advantage of the 12 days of X-Mas. So far total bill is about $11.5K I had $1K worth of VVT work before I found out that wasn't the issue. I kind of lost count of diagnostic hrs. Must have been like 20-40hrs worth.

Asked Darren what could have caused cylinder 3 to fail. He thinks it could have been my HKS twin power ignition. Cylinder 3 was extremely lean. Removed the HKS ignition. I went back to my OE WG solenoid. My Grimmspeed was acting funny. So I needed a OE ECU. CP-e wasn't able to re-flash my OE ECU back to stock. So they have taken a salvaged OE ECU and will pair it to my key card. After that break in the engine and maybe a dyno tune. Waiting for Darren to give me all the pic so I can post.

BTW. The CP-e Stage 1 clutch is stiffer than OE. It will be like starting over again to learn to drive a clutch. LOL!!!!!
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06 MS6, Blk Mica, MS wheels 18x7.5, Magnaflow CB, SU MM, CS Strut bar, Bilstein shocks, Redline Tuning QuickLIFT, MPI Upgraded K04, TT Diff Frt mount & R. Bushings, SP slotted rotors, Hawk rear pads, Whiteline RSB, Steedspeed mani, JBR TIG. Cobb AP, DCR VVT
RPM: Sport Springs, Shark Fin, LED side markers
HKS: BOV
CP-e: CDFP, TIP, Xcel CAI, Catted DP, BOV Flange, gauge pod, TMIC, Safeseals, Stage 2 block, Stage 1 clutch

Last edited by Poohster; 01-20-2013 at 11:19 PM. Reason: add more
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:46 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Poohster View Post
Hell yeah!!. Update. CP-e has installed my engine. Swapped over everything. Installed a new water pump, stage 1 CP-e clutch, black crinkle valve cover and time chain cover and an Cobb AP. So far CP-e has cut me a break on costs. Took advantage of the 12 days of X-Mas. So far total bill is about $11.5K I had $1K worth of VVT work before I found out that wasn't the issue. I kind of lost count of diagnostic hrs. Must have been like 20-40hrs worth.

Asked Darren what could have caused cylinder 3 to fail. He thinks it could have been my HKS twin power ignition. Cylinder 3 was extremely lean. Removed the HKS ignition. I went back to my OE WG solenoid. My Grimmspeed was acting funny. So I needed a OE ECU. CP-e wasn't able to re-flash my OE ECU back to stock. So they have taken a salvaged OE ECU and will pair it to my key card. After that break in the engine and maybe a dyno tune. Waiting for Darren to give me all the pic so I can post.

BTW. The CP-e Stage 1 clutch is stiffer than OE. It will be like starting over again to learn to drive a clutch. LOL!!!!!
CONGRATS, pics will be nice to see and drool over

Curious on the CPE clutch: Expected life? Using what flywheel?
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