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Old 07-25-2009, 12:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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OK so I take my car to the track tonight. Haven't been there since some time late last year. I am about to do my first run. I rev to 4500 and ease off clutch its grabs ok then it all stops.... I shift to 2nd then 3rd then 4th.. barley any pull at all. Ran a 16.78 with a 2.14 60'. I believe it was the clutch slipping or not engaging at all. This is the first time this has happened to me so I am not really sure what it would feel like. When i parked my car it smelt like shit!!! People could smell it from like 5 feet away. Seems like Burnt clutch smell to me and some other friends confirmed it.

So there is my first problem don't know if I will need a new clutch car only has 34k miles on it. (don't think its covered under warranty) I will check with my techs tomorrow.

On the way home driving it easy. All of a sudden I get a CEL on and the little icon that looks like the car is drifting icon turns on too. I can't accelerate!! So I pull over scan the codes. its shows a P2123 (TP) sensor/Switch D Circuit High Input. If I accelerate nothing happens. I tried to reset it with my Dash Hawk but it keep coming up I had to reset it like 5 times in order for it to go away then the car drove off fine. I just got home now so I don't know what to do....

This whole clutch thing can be checked out but the CEL code that it through is gone now because i reset it so I don't know how that can get diagnosed. Anyone got any ideas. I will be taking it to Mazda tomorrow and see what happens as well





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Old 07-25-2009, 12:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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QUOTE (thabigo @ Jul 25 2009, 12:16 AM)
Quote:
So there is my first problem don't know if I will need a new clutch car only has 34k miles on it. (don't think its covered under warranty) I will check with my techs tomorrow.[/b]
Your symptoms sound like a worn out clutch to me. The clutch disc is a wear-and-tear item (like brake pads), so this won't be covered under warranty. I'm surprised that your clutch is worn out after only 34,000 miles, but driving style and conditions are a big factor. If you are performing a lot of high-rpm launches then I suppose the clutch is going to wear somewhat rapidly.

As for the DTC, I don't know how a slipping clutch alone would cause that problem. Perhaps something else in the drivetrain is broken, causing strange wheel speed sensor readings and therefore confusing the AWD and/or stability control systems. You may want to carefully inspect all the axles and CV joints.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Check the diff, mounts and bolts for damage. Check the drivers side axle for breakage inside a cv joint.
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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OP, check to make sure all the connections to your ECU/SB are good. If anyone has a FSM and a scanner post up page 01-02B-223. That page as all the information DTC P2123.

Here's the text from that page:
DTC P2123 [L3 WITH TC]
Condition:
* The PCM monitors the APP sensor No. 1 signal. If the PCM detects that the APP sensor No. 1 voltage is above 4.5 V, the PCM determines that the APP sensor No. 1 circuit has a malfunction

Possible Causes:
* APP sensor malfunction
* Connector or terminal malfunction
* Open circuit between APP sensor terminal E and PCM terminal 3A
* Open circuit between APP sensor terminal F and PCM terminal 3D
* Short to constant voltage in the supply circuit between APP sensor terminal F and PCM terminal 3D


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Old 07-25-2009, 10:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Whats a FSM? And I do baby my car. I rarley ever launch the car. I do wot shifts every now and then. That's why I can't believe the clutch is gone already. My tech told me to bring it to him on monday. But he won't be able to do anything without the CEL on. So I have to wait for it to turn back on and basiclly get it towed to the dealer. Because with that CEL i can't drive it....
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Factory service manual.

Edit: Workshop manual same thing different vocabulary
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Old 07-26-2009, 08:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I see are you a tech or something?!? lol

Status Update Since that CEL it hasn't come back up. But my clutch feels werid. Everytime I drive somewhere I smell burnt clutch. I don't think I am going to drive it anymore. I going to take it to my Mazda Dealer tomorrow and just get it offically checked out there. Ill see what happens. I am hoping there is some bulletin for this clutch because 35k Is way to low for a new clutch. God help me!
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<span style="font-family:Century Gothic">\\ 15% Tint All Around \\ CP-E CAI \\ SU Engine Mount \\ <strike>SU Test Pipe</strike> \\ CP-E Catback Exhuast \\ DashHawk \\ <strike>Turbo XS RBV </strike> \\ TWM SS Stage 2 w/ Bushings \\ TWM Desert Eagle Shift Knob \\ RPM Street Springs \\ ProSport Boost Gauge \\ TurboSmart BOV 100% Recirc \\ ETS Top Mount 3.25" \\ CP-E Catted DP \\ <strike>PG Turbo Manifold</strike> \\ BelTronics Sti Radar (HardWired) \\ <strike>NGK One Step Colder Spark Plugs</strike> \\ Denso Iridium Spark Plugs \\ PG CDFP Internals \\ Dekz Vent Pod \\ CP-E SB v2 \\ DNP Manifold \\ SM OCC (2 PCV's) \\ CP-E Turbo Inlet \\ CP-E Tow Plate \\ ACT Performance Clutch Kit \\ L.E.D TailLights\\ TT Front Engine Mount </span>
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (thabigo @ Jul 27 2009, 01:07 AM)
Quote:
I see are you a tech or something?!? lol

Status Update Since that CEL it hasn't come back up. But my clutch feels werid. Everytime I drive somewhere I smell burnt clutch. I don't think I am going to drive it anymore. I going to take it to my Mazda Dealer tomorrow and just get it offically checked out there. Ill see what happens. I am hoping there is some bulletin for this clutch because 35k Is way to low for a new clutch. God help me![/b]

Well if you are still having a burning smell and it is also slipping still since the track then yea you need a clutch. As i told that ALL of the speed6s that i have taken to the track have slipped on the first pass or two then it got better. My clutch after about 3000 miles on it but after letting it cool and running again at the track it got better. I made 54000 on that clutch and i decided that at the power levels i am going to that i needed a better clutch so that is why i put the spec in there.

Also like someone else stated to check your rear axle or the diff mount as that might have broken and causes the traction control light to come on because you might be spinning when you leave the light. It is ALOT easier to spin your tires if your axle is broken in the rear due to the way that you are used to driving it AWD!!
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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QUOTE (thabigo @ Jul 26 2009, 08:07 PM)
Quote:
I see are you a tech or something?!? lol[/b]
Short answer, no. All I did was lookup the DTC you posted. Charles did make a good point about having a look-see around your diff and axles.

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Old 07-27-2009, 05:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Was your clutch actually slipping? You make no mention of the rpm being consistantly high through each gear. If rpm is where it should be a wot, for each gear, it is not the clutch. Possible that some electronic nanny was keeping the power down???
Also, I don't know much about the ms6. But on my 6s the drifting car light is the light that comes on when my traction control is on, and I break loose the tires, then it cuts power. Next time that happens and you can't accelerate, try turning the traction control off, and see what happens. it will help you narrow the problem down. Simple troubleshooting my friend.
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