Adjusting The Clutch Pedal - Page 5 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #41 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 12:08 PM
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I thought this sounded interesting and was going to try adjusting my clutch, but I noticed on mine taht when fully depressed, the clutch arm hits the firewall. Were your's the same or does this mean I have no room for adjustment? Thanks in advance for the help.
[/b]
Hi hillauz, as seanw noted in his reply this is normal. The firewall serves as the lower stop, as compared to the stop bolt, which is for the upper stop. The firewall can't be moved of course, while the upper bolt can be adjusted.

Since the firewall can't be moved, I use the seat up adjustments to set up the right position to fully depress the pedal. I set the seat so that at full extension of my leg I can comfortably bottom out the clutch pedal against the firewall/floor. This ensures that the clutch will be fully disengaged when coming to a stop or shifting.

If you follow the steps in the process I describe you should have no problems ensuring that the adjustment does NOT move the engagement point so much that fully depressing the pedal against the firewall does NOT fully disengage the clutch. This will be quite obvious when you do the clutch test in steps 16, 17 and 18.

During the test, with the pedal fully depressed and the car in 1st gear, there shouldn't be any sense of the car trying to move or creep forward. Release the pedal slowly. You should be able to feel the point at which the clutch starts to engage. Push it back in again and then repeat to get a feel for where that point is during the travel. It should be several inches off the floor. This means that there is some free play before the clutch engages. This ensures that the clutch is fully disengaged when it's against the floor.

If, for some reason the clutch pedal is mis-adjusted inwards so far that the the clutch doesn't fully disengage , you should notice pretty quickly. The symptons will be:
1. Slight windup of the drivetrain while stopped with car in gear
2. Creeping of the car while the car is stopped and in gear
3. Grinding of the synchros during shifting

Keep in mind some people are experiencing grinding in certain gears as the car came, so don't confuse this with your clutch adjustment. In other words if you're experiencing some balkiness and/or grinding during certain shifts before you do the clutch adjustment, you should still experience them to the same degree afterwards as this is a characteristic of your gearbox, not the clutch adjustment. However, if after the adjustment it gets worse and/or moves to other gears as well, then the clutch may be mis-adjusted. Backing out the adjustment should remedy that. Marking the bolts and counting the number of turns will allow you to return everything back to the way it was, if necessary.

Of more serious concern is the full engagement of the clutch. Make sure that there is some play between the clutch cylinder acutator rod and the clutch cylinder piston, as explained in the procedure. Some people are doing the two adjustments reversed, which works just as well. IE. Loosen the lock nut on the acutator rod, screw it in towards pedal arm 2-3 turns (this will greatly increase the free play between the rod and piston), then adjust the stop bolt to move the pedal arm closer to the firewall to take up most of the free play.

Again, if you're unsure of what the whole process is like, and how many rotations to screw in the stop bolt and actuator rod, do it in several small steps. Adjust them both by only half a turn or one turn. Do the clutch test and see what it feels like. Then do the adjustment again. Move forward in small increments and you shouldn't run into any big problems.

I hope this explained it well.

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post #42 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 02:14 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I just wasn't sure if that was normal, so i didn't want to go adjusting my pedal to find out I wasn't fully disengaging the clutch because I was hitting the firewall. Looks like I will be doing this tonight then. And I will get you my spring color and build date if you are still interested.
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post #43 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 01:33 AM
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build date: 08/05
spring colour: white

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post #44 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 01:22 PM
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build date: 12/05
White spring


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
Quote:
You obviously don't understand digital. Digital is all ones and zero's. If you have a kink in the cable, because it is made cheaply, then the 0's, being as they are round, can slip around the kink's, but the 1's, having sharp edges, pile up.
No need to look under the hood....
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post #45 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 05:33 PM
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adjusted mine yesterday, and I have a white spring not sure of the build date though. Its ok if there is a very small amount of free play like 2mm or so, I dont like to feel like my clutch is "lose"

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post #46 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 11:03 PM
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Has anyone with a 6s or 6i Manual checked their spring? I'm willing to bet the clutch pedal assy is the same.
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post #47 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 04:29 PM
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I can't wait to try this.

I just got my 06 Speed6 GT last week and it took about two days commuting to get the clutch feel and shift points down, but I would say overall the clutch is worlds better than my 6S MTX 5-door with CP-E MAFCi... the shifter is fantastic. I can drive around town or freeway even stop and go traffic jams with no drama... but I am still getting used to the LOOONG clutch travel if I am accelerating fast.

I am used to slamming down the clutch pedal and releasing and on the speed I seem to reach engagement unexpectedly with a jerk from the gas I am applying. Like another poster mentioned, I feel like I am fighting muscle memory. Seems like another few days and it'll be fine, but the adjustment sounds like the perfect solution. I used to balance on the engagement point when I was stopped on a steep hill at a red light with the 6S, and I cannot do this with the MS6 for fear of stalling - I hate rolling back. I guess I will start using the e-brake.

The big picture is that this car blows me away evertime I drive it. It is a HUGE upgrade from the 6S and has everything I was wanting stock, and lots of effective mods if I want more.

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post #48 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 07:10 PM
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My spring is orange....j/k. It's white and build date is 4/06. I'm use to the clutch now, but I may try to adjust it in the future. GREAT WRITE UP!!!

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post #49 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
My spring is orange....j/k. It's white and build date is 4/06. I'm use to the clutch now, but I may try to adjust it in the future. GREAT WRITE UP!!!
[/b]
Thanks for the compliment daztd

Updated spring info: as of Sept 23 ten owners have reported in and all have the white spring.

Supercar - Skoda: 05/06 White spring
PedalPuncher: 01/06 White spring
99 RT Eh: 03/06 White spring
Mr.trees: 02/06 White spring
wannaSpeed: 02/06 White spring
dj petey: 08/05 White spring
SSinstaller: 12/05 White spring
MS686: ?? White spring
daztd: 04/06 White spring
watdog: 11/05 White spring


For those of you not sure where to find the production date, it's printed on a rectangular sticker about 1.5"x4" stuck on the bottom of the B pillar between the front and rear doors. It says "Manufactured by Mazda Motor Corporation" and has a bar code on the bottom. It's just behind the door jamb sticker that gives tire size and pressure.

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Beautiful BC, Canada
Changes: 3.25" ETS TMIC, Forge BPV, SU Boost Tubes, RPM Prototype Sport Springs, TWM Short Shifter and bushings, SU motor mount, Nokya H11 yellow foglights, RX8 wheels on 235/40 General Exclaim UHP, rolled fender lips, Fujita CAI, 3" custom single outlet exh with 2 (yes, 2) Magnaflow resonators, SpiralFlow and Aeroturbine muffler, Osram Silverstar H1 high beams, Turn signal mod, MazdaSpeed6 badge removed
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post #50 of 260 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 10:30 PM
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I just adjusted my clutch pedal and wow what a difference. I have the black spring also and my build date is 11/05.

My lug nuts require more torque than your Honda makes!!!
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