I thought this sounded interesting and was going to try adjusting my clutch, but I noticed on mine taht when fully depressed, the clutch arm hits the firewall. Were your's the same or does this mean I have no room for adjustment? Thanks in advance for the help.
Hi hillauz, as seanw noted in his reply this is normal. The firewall serves as the lower stop, as compared to the stop bolt, which is for the upper stop. The firewall can't be moved of course, while the upper bolt can be adjusted.
Since the firewall can't be moved, I use the seat up adjustments to set up the right position to fully depress the pedal. I set the seat so that at full extension of my leg I can comfortably bottom out the clutch pedal against the firewall/floor. This ensures that the clutch will be fully disengaged when coming to a stop or shifting.
If you follow the steps in the process I describe you should have no problems ensuring that the adjustment does NOT move the engagement point so much that fully depressing the pedal against the firewall does NOT fully disengage the clutch. This will be quite obvious when you do the clutch test in steps 16, 17 and 18.
During the test, with the pedal fully depressed and the car in 1st gear, there shouldn't be any sense of the car trying to move or creep forward. Release the pedal slowly. You should be able to feel the point at which the clutch starts to engage. Push it back in again and then repeat to get a feel for where that point is during the travel. It should be several inches off the floor. This means that there is some free play before the clutch engages. This ensures that the clutch is fully disengaged when it's against the floor.
If, for some reason the clutch pedal is mis-adjusted inwards so far that the the clutch doesn't fully disengage , you should notice pretty quickly. The symptons will be:
1. Slight windup of the drivetrain while stopped with car in gear
2. Creeping of the car while the car is stopped and in gear
3. Grinding of the synchros during shifting
Keep in mind some people are experiencing grinding in certain gears as the car came, so don't confuse this with your clutch adjustment. In other words if you're experiencing some balkiness and/or grinding during certain shifts before you do the clutch adjustment, you should still experience them to the same degree afterwards as this is a characteristic of your gearbox, not the clutch adjustment. However, if after the adjustment it gets worse and/or moves to other gears as well, then the clutch may be mis-adjusted. Backing out the adjustment should remedy that. Marking the bolts and counting the number of turns will allow you to return everything back to the way it was, if necessary.
Of more serious concern is the full engagement of the clutch. Make sure that there is some play between the clutch cylinder acutator rod and the clutch cylinder piston, as explained in the procedure. Some people are doing the two adjustments reversed, which works just as well. IE. Loosen the lock nut on the acutator rod, screw it in towards pedal arm 2-3 turns (this will greatly increase the free play between the rod and piston), then adjust the stop bolt to move the pedal arm closer to the firewall to take up most of the free play.
Again, if you're unsure of what the whole process is like, and how many rotations to screw in the stop bolt and actuator rod, do it in several small steps. Adjust them both by only half a turn or one turn. Do the clutch test and see what it feels like. Then do the adjustment again. Move forward in small increments and you shouldn't run into any big problems.
I hope this explained it well.