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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Purchasing a CPO demo 2016 Grand Touring?

Hello everyone,

Has anyone purchased a Mazda6 that was listed as both "New & Certified Pre-Owned" on a dealers website? I called and they explained it's a vehicle they drove at the dealership and that it has 4300 miles. Doing a little research tells me this is what would be known as a demo car. How would this car be classified in terms of pricing it (used, new, CPO, etc.)? The model I am looking at specifically is a 2016 Mazda6 GT listed at $25,999. Are there any questions other than standard used car questions I should ask in this situation? One thing that concerns me is how the vehicle was driven (tests drives, manager/employee commutes). Any info you all can provide would be great. Thanks!

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:37 PM
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It's a used car.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 10:29 PM
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It's technically new because it's untitled, but physically it's used. I would shop it accordingly.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:26 PM
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They used to call it a demo because it sounded better than used. Same thing. Now that they have CPO, they'll just call a demo unit a CPO. Still just a used car. Demo cars are usually for dealer events (such as if they display the car at a show), for general manager's use, Salesperson of the Month of even a loaner car. You should be fine with just the standard used car questions. Make sure you check NADA or KBB first, they tend to inflate those CPO prices.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:03 AM
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I'm wondering when a new car is no longer considered "new"? Is it 100 miles? Mine was test driven quite a bit, it had 80 miles.

I saw a Ford Fusion that had 200 miles and considered new.

More your opinion, technically it's still considered new.

I had an Impala that only had 5 miles when I bought.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWL View Post
I'm wondering when a new car is no longer considered "new"? Is it 100 miles? Mine was test driven quite a bit, it had 80 miles.

I saw a Ford Fusion that had 200 miles and considered new.

More your opinion, technically it's still considered new.

I had an Impala that only had 5 miles when I bought.
In black and white, it's used the moment you sign the paperwork and put your rear end in that seat.

Dealers can get away with "new" on vehicles that were only used for testing because no paperwork was signed for those miles and therefore doesn't have an owner history.

OP, Treat it like a used car, and even more, treat it like a slightly abused used car - test drivers aren't (typically) going easy on a car they're looking to buy.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input everyone! A little update on the situation. The first time I spoke to the dealership I also gave them a rough figure that I was looking to spend no more than $24000 OTD. He called me back this morning and informed me that they would do $25,500 OTD and it's listed at $24,999. I will be getting back to them with all of my questions since the dealership is a little over an hour away. I found this list regarding "demo vehicles" covering what I should be looking out for. Let me know if any of you have any other insight.

* Don’t confuse a “program car” for a demo. Program cars have already been titled and are used by the manufacturer for everything from press vehicles to “brass hats” – those driven by higher-level employees. These vehicles can have as many as 10,000 miles or more.
* Be sure to verify the history of the vehicle with the salesperson the same as you would a used car. Request a vehicle history report and, before buying, have it inspected by an ASE Certified Master Mechanic and a body repair specialist to be sure there is no hidden damage.
* Check the in-service to be sure it will start when you take delivery, otherwise you could lose out on months of warranty coverage if the in-service date coincides when it was placed in demo service.
* Although there is no policy for compensating for the number of miles already on the vehicle, in 2014 the IRS uses 23.4 cents per mile driven to calculate the cost of using a vehicle for medical or moving purposes – so deduct at least 20.0 to 25.0 cents for each mile driven (in most cases, the more expensive the car, the higher the per mile deduction should be, since, generally, the more expensive a vehicle is, the greater its depreciation will be).
* Be sure the vehicle hasn’t been titled. If it has, it’s a used car.
* If the vehicle is new, in addition to the lower price due to mileage, it should also qualify for any manufacturer new car rebates and incentives.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:03 AM
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Excellent points, all valid.

I'll add that if it was demo'd to a salesman, then it needs a good going over since a lot of salesmen drive like, well, you know. Did some time in the biz, so that's first hand knowledge.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:09 AM
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Again, while legally it's a new car because it was never titled in fact it's a used car and that will be obvious to anyone looking at the title because the "when titled" mileage on the original transfer will show the mileage the stealer put on it.

Odometer disclosures are required on all transfers everywhere I've ever lived in the US, so there's no "hiding" that it was used before being titled. Irrespective of the legal status of the car from a depreciation standpoint as soon as a butt sits in the seat for other than a checkride the car is used.

One thing I've always insisted on when buying a car from a dealer (new or "demo") is a signed statement from them that no damage was sustained and repaired prior to or during the dealer's possession of same. If they won't sign that (a one-sentence pen-written addition to their sales agreement they initial is sufficient) then RUN, do not walk away from any such "deal." In most states there is no law requiring disclosure of such "dealer repairs" (e.g. transportation damage, etc) and it can be quite extensive. Damage is damage and if discovered later it WILL impact value, and unless the impact is directly and dollar-for-dollar taken off the price you don't want the car. Dealers will try to tell you that they "can't" make changes to their sales agreements or sign such a thing. That's a lie; there is no law anywhere that bars a dealer from stating in a legally-enforceable manner that there has been no repaired damage to a vehicle they are selling and such a claim is laughable on its face.

Dealer demos can be a reasonable deal provided the depreciation represented by their use is reflected in the price. It frequently isn't, however, and when it's not IMHO you're far better off having a "zero mile" (under 20) vehicle where every mile put on it is one that you drove and thus know the history of. This all assumes you intend to drive said car until the wheels fall off or similar; there's no economic argument, ever, for buying a new car except for the explicit purpose of knowing the operational history of the vehicle since new and thus exerting some level of control over operating and maintenance costs several years down the road.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbear View Post
Thanks for the input everyone! A little update on the situation. The first time I spoke to the dealership I also gave them a rough figure that I was looking to spend no more than $24000 OTD. He called me back this morning and informed me that they would do $25,500 OTD and it's listed at $24,999. I will be getting back to them with all of my questions since the dealership is a little over an hour away. I found this list regarding "demo vehicles" covering what I should be looking out for. Let me know if any of you have any other insight.

* Don’t confuse a “program car” for a demo. Program cars have already been titled and are used by the manufacturer for everything from press vehicles to “brass hats” – those driven by higher-level employees. These vehicles can have as many as 10,000 miles or more.
* Be sure to verify the history of the vehicle with the salesperson the same as you would a used car. Request a vehicle history report and, before buying, have it inspected by an ASE Certified Master Mechanic and a body repair specialist to be sure there is no hidden damage.
* Check the in-service to be sure it will start when you take delivery, otherwise you could lose out on months of warranty coverage if the in-service date coincides when it was placed in demo service.
* Although there is no policy for compensating for the number of miles already on the vehicle, in 2014 the IRS uses 23.4 cents per mile driven to calculate the cost of using a vehicle for medical or moving purposes – so deduct at least 20.0 to 25.0 cents for each mile driven (in most cases, the more expensive the car, the higher the per mile deduction should be, since, generally, the more expensive a vehicle is, the greater its depreciation will be).
* Be sure the vehicle hasn’t been titled. If it has, it’s a used car.
* If the vehicle is new, in addition to the lower price due to mileage, it should also qualify for any manufacturer new car rebates and incentives.
Just look it over closely for acceptable wear and tear. It could have been a loaner car as all Mazda dealers are required to have them for their service customers.

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