KBB, NADA, Edmunds, or ...? - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum

GCO · 03-03-2008, 02:03 AM

I'm selling a 1993 Mazda and I've found that the prices in Kelly Blue Book, NADA, and Edmunds vary quite a bit. IIRC, Edmunds is quite a bit lower. Which do you think is most realistic? Are there any other ways to price used cars?

jsmazda6 · 03-03-2008, 02:14 AM

Dealerships tend to use NADA and KBB in case you're wondering.

AJsMS6 · 03-03-2008, 09:11 AM

Just take any average of what you see. And dealerships rarely use NADA and KBB for pricing cars. It is usually what that car sold for at auction previously.

jsmazda6 · 03-03-2008, 11:17 AM

Sorry I wasn't clear. We used NADA and KBB as a "guideline" for the customer on average trade-in-value of the cars being traded in. Then we break the news to them that we tend to use the auction history of that particular make and model which most likely WILL be less than what NADA or KBB states. Then the haggling begins. Just because it shows $15K on NADA or KBB does not mean you are going to get $15K.

Averaging it out is your best bet and it's all going to depend on the market in your area on that particular make and model.

No, I don't work for car dealerships anymore...

ILM05MAZDA · 03-03-2008, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Sorry I wasn't clear. We used NADA and KBB as a "guideline" for the customer on average trade-in-value of the cars being traded in. Then we break the news to them that we tend to use the auction history of that particular make and model which most likely WILL be less than what NADA or KBB states. Then the haggling begins. Just because it shows $15K on NADA or KBB does not mean you are going to get $15K.

Averaging it out is your best bet and it's all going to depend on the market in your area on that particular make and model.

No, I don't work for car dealerships anymore...[/b]

+1000 I used to work for Mazda and although KBB can be right on for a lot of trade ins here in So Cal it is mainly the newer models, any car older then 2000 and some newer are really at the mercy of the auction prices!! Although dealers can usually go some above if they truly feel the car deal depends on the increased trade in $, but make sure they don't use the old trick of more for your trade but they just tack it on to the price of the car!!

firedawgs · 03-03-2008, 01:39 PM

I am not going to get started on a this. I will just say, becareful and be educated in your pricing and facts about your car or the one you are looking at.

AJsMS6 · 03-03-2008, 01:45 PM

Research is your best friend.

LasVegas6s · 03-04-2008, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Research is your best friend.[/b]

+1.

If you're looking at trading the car at a dealership, please try to be aware of what is going to happen. When the "haggling" begins, if they give in one part of the equation they'll take in another. For example: If you insist on getting $3000 for your car and they finally cave in, the price of the car you're buying may increase, your interest rate may increase, or there may be some miscellaneous "fees" that will pop up. Dealerships that charge several hundreds of dollars for "doc fees" are a prime example.

While I agree KBB and NADA are good guides, Manheim's black book which isn't usually available to the public will be much more realistic.

In my opinion, you should be prepared to look at a wholesale replacement offer for your car. In other words, how much can the dealership buy that specific car with the same options, miles, and condition at an auction.

neali2000 · 03-04-2008, 08:31 PM

I was looking to trade my 2004 Mazda6 in and was only offered $8K for it. It has 50000 miles.

bigteninch · 03-07-2008, 09:58 PM

If I can offer my .02; I have quite a few friends in the car business (just like everyone else) althought I am not.

I tend to buy a 1-3 year old used car every couple of years or less (trying to maximaze my vehicler/dollar quotient). I find that I can usually buy a car (even from a dealer) for KBB Private party (good) rating or slightly less if from an individual. I keep in mind the "trade in" value from KBB and then pretty much know the dealer gave something less than that typically. For me, living in the SE US, this has been pretty predictable.

I feel that the way they look at trades is this; they call their local wholesaler that buys cars they cannot sell in a timely manner. Whatever he offers them sight unseen, they deduct some $$ amount from that and that is your offer. this way, the know they can "wholesale" your car in case they need to.

03-03-2008, 02:03 AM	#1 (permalink)
GCO Drivers License Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 56 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	I'm selling a 1993 Mazda and I've found that the prices in Kelly Blue Book, NADA, and Edmunds vary quite a bit. IIRC, Edmunds is quite a bit lower. Which do you think is most realistic? Are there any other ways to price used cars? __________________ 2006 6 S Sport MTX 30% Suntek InfinityOP \| McGard wheel locks \| AudioLink iPod adapter \| K&N air filter

03-03-2008, 02:14 AM	#2 (permalink)
jsmazda6 Track Racer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 214 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Dealerships tend to use NADA and KBB in case you're wondering. __________________ <div align=\'center\'><span style="font-family:Century Gothic">~ 2004 Mazda 6s Hatch ATX ~ Steel Grey Metallic ~ </span> <div align=\'center\'>CP-E Mafci Non-Tunable : Tein S-Techs : MagnaFlow Cat-Back : Konig Holes 18 x 8 : Toyo Proxes 4 : B&M Tranny Cooler : Kartboy Exhaust Hangers : Mazda JDM Window Visors : Escort Passport 9500i w/ GPS Fumoto Oil Drain Valve : Stant 160 Thermostat : Magnefine Tranny Oil Filter : Bosch Icon Wiper Blades : Apexicone DDM Slimline HID Conversion : EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads HID Glare Mod : Throttle Body Coolant Bypass : LED'd Interior : VG Sharkfin Antenna : EGR Mod : Pulstar Plugs : CP-E Stage 1 Shift Kit : AWR Front Sway Bar Endlink : AWR Rear Sway Bar Endlink : Racing Beat Front Sway Bar : Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar : NextMod Black Racing Lip : NextMod AutoExe Badgeless Grill

03-03-2008, 11:17 AM	#4 (permalink)
jsmazda6 Track Racer Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 214 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Sorry I wasn't clear. We used NADA and KBB as a "guideline" for the customer on average trade-in-value of the cars being traded in. Then we break the news to them that we tend to use the auction history of that particular make and model which most likely WILL be less than what NADA or KBB states. Then the haggling begins. Just because it shows $15K on NADA or KBB does not mean you are going to get $15K. Averaging it out is your best bet and it's all going to depend on the market in your area on that particular make and model. No, I don't work for car dealerships anymore... __________________ <div align=\'center\'><span style="font-family:Century Gothic">~ 2004 Mazda 6s Hatch ATX ~ Steel Grey Metallic ~ </span> <div align=\'center\'>CP-E Mafci Non-Tunable : Tein S-Techs : MagnaFlow Cat-Back : Konig Holes 18 x 8 : Toyo Proxes 4 : B&M Tranny Cooler : Kartboy Exhaust Hangers : Mazda JDM Window Visors : Escort Passport 9500i w/ GPS Fumoto Oil Drain Valve : Stant 160 Thermostat : Magnefine Tranny Oil Filter : Bosch Icon Wiper Blades : Apexicone DDM Slimline HID Conversion : EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads HID Glare Mod : Throttle Body Coolant Bypass : LED'd Interior : VG Sharkfin Antenna : EGR Mod : Pulstar Plugs : CP-E Stage 1 Shift Kit : AWR Front Sway Bar Endlink : AWR Rear Sway Bar Endlink : Racing Beat Front Sway Bar : Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar : NextMod Black Racing Lip : NextMod AutoExe Badgeless Grill

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03-03-2008, 09:11 AM	#3 (permalink)
AJsMS6 Learners License Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Just take any average of what you see. And dealerships rarely use NADA and KBB for pricing cars. It is usually what that car sold for at auction previously.

03-03-2008, 01:39 PM	#6 (permalink)
firedawgs Track Racer Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 406 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	I am not going to get started on a this. I will just say, becareful and be educated in your pricing and facts about your car or the one you are looking at.

03-03-2008, 01:45 PM	#7 (permalink)
AJsMS6 Learners License Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 5 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	Research is your best friend.

03-04-2008, 08:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
neali2000 Learners License Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	I was looking to trade my 2004 Mazda6 in and was only offered $8K for it. It has 50000 miles.

03-07-2008, 09:58 PM	#10 (permalink)
bigteninch Learners License Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: 0 reviews	If I can offer my .02; I have quite a few friends in the car business (just like everyone else) althought I am not. I tend to buy a 1-3 year old used car every couple of years or less (trying to maximaze my vehicler/dollar quotient). I find that I can usually buy a car (even from a dealer) for KBB Private party (good) rating or slightly less if from an individual. I keep in mind the "trade in" value from KBB and then pretty much know the dealer gave something less than that typically. For me, living in the SE US, this has been pretty predictable. I feel that the way they look at trades is this; they call their local wholesaler that buys cars they cannot sell in a timely manner. Whatever he offers them sight unseen, they deduct some $$ amount from that and that is your offer. this way, the know they can "wholesale" your car in case they need to.