Transmission removal Engine or Subframe - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission removal Engine or Subframe

Hey guys, I have a 04 Mazda 6 V6 Manual trans. Transmission is stuck in first or second gear. I am going to pull the trans but am wondering if there is any other way besides pulling the engine. I guess the other way is pulling the sub frame? can I get around that? (mainly regretting this since I put a new engine and tranny into the car 1 year ago) almost to this day. Thanks for any advice. (I did read a few posts but want to ease my consensus)
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 10:23 AM
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I don't think you'd need to pull the whole motor for that, but I'm not experienced in any way. Are you sure it's the trans and not an issue with the linkage/cables?

Alex
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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100% positive, I am almost sure its the throw out bearing that failed...
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 02:50 PM
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A bad throw out bearing will still allow the transmission gears to be moved when the engine is off. As long as the transmission gear is not loaded (in gear with no brake on a hill for example) you should be able to move through all the shift gates without too much difficulty.


A failed throw out bearing will make noise or grind when depressing the clutch. It could also seize on the input shaft housing and prevent clutch movement with the pedal. I have seen one that shattered and sent pieces between the flywheel, clutch plate and clutch cover.


Transmissions can be shifted without a clutch. if you cannot move the selector it is generally an external linkage problem, internal linkage or a internal failure where debris is impeding movement somehow (like a broken synchro ring caught somewhere.



When you say first or second gear can you not tell? Those two gears are in fairly different positions and it should be apparent from both the selector position and the linkage position which gear you are in.


I don't mean to be questioning or snarky just to be sure I understand.



A little bit of history can help out a lot here as well.. Was it making noise? Grinding? difficult to shift? slipping? Popping out of gear? 1st or 2nd? 1st and 2nd?


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch failed, then caused the throw out baring to fail. I pulled the front end off., decided not to mess with sub frame. I regret this car, send time I have had to do this. Once for a new motor and now this. Just a pain.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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A little bit of history can help out a lot here as well.. Was it making noise? Grinding? difficult to shift? slipping? Popping out of gear? 1st or 2nd? 1st and 2nd?

Was grinding, clutch was very hard to push in, making noise. Wouldnet pop out of gear but could hardly push in the clutch, obviously from the pic above, as soon as I pulled the trans and took the pressure plate off, the clutch just fell apart. Besides the fact, I could change gear from inside the car but it felt like it was stuck in gear, maybe someone can help me understand that.. BESIDES that, obviously the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing was toast.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragedude View Post
A little bit of history can help out a lot here as well.. Was it making noise? Grinding? difficult to shift? slipping? Popping out of gear? 1st or 2nd? 1st and 2nd?

Was grinding, clutch was very hard to push in, making noise. Wouldnet pop out of gear but could hardly push in the clutch, obviously from the pic above, as soon as I pulled the trans and took the pressure plate off, the clutch just fell apart. Besides the fact, I could change gear from inside the car but it felt like it was stuck in gear, maybe someone can help me understand that.. BESIDES that, obviously the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing was toast.

What clutch/throwout bearing did you go with when you replaced the engine? Sounds like one to avoid if it failed already.

Scott

2004 Mazda 6s GT MTX sports package
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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I bought this clutch kit previously, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1433051&jsn=10


I replaced the clutch with this kit




As of right now she is back on the road, glad I went with pulling the front end off instead of pulling the sub frame.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragedude View Post
I bought this clutch kit previously, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1433051&jsn=10


I replaced the clutch with this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


As of right now she is back on the road, glad I went with pulling the front end off instead of pulling the sub frame.

Well done. Its a heck of a lot of work but hopefully this one will go the distance.


To save the throw out bearing:
Make sure your clutch is properly adjusted (throw out bearing not touching the clutch cover when foot off pedal)

When you come to a light, take it out of gear (neutral) and foot off the clutch.
When cruising don't rest your foot on the clutch or hand on the gearshift knob (this doesn't affect throw out bearing specifically).


Thats about the best one can do.


Happy motoring and once again, well done.


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-02-2018, 02:24 PM
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I hate those sorts of repairs where one has to do stuff twice in a short time period. Good on ya for getting it done all the same. Hopefully your efforts will give you a trouble free drive for some time to come. All of what @DrFeelGood says above is a good idea. Leaving one's foot on the clutch pedal at a light with the car in gear makes that throw out bearing work ALL the time. The hand on the shift knob wears out the brass selector forks and requires a transmission rebuild. Both practices are good habits to break if you drive a manual trans car.

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