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2007MS6 10-06-2013 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA (Post 3667130)
It is a known FACT that the stock RMM is shit. Almost as bad as the stock Diff mounts.

I don't think anyone is saying that aftermarket would not be better, but my cars have not fallen apart or broken b/c of the stocker, thanks.

2007MS6 10-06-2013 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f15ms6 (Post 3667650)
So I should wait for the RMM to go bad before replacing it with a good aftermarket? Because from I am reading if were to gain more power by getting an AP + other upgrades a RMM upgrade is must since it will end up breaking..

I am not going to track the car since its my DD, my goal is to upgrade car in order to make it more reliable while gaining a reasonable amount of power.

Your stock RMM will not break just b/c you add more power.

6Y MAZDA 10-06-2013 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2007MS6 (Post 3668233)
I don't think anyone is saying that aftermarket would not be better, but my cars have not fallen apart or broken b/c of the stocker, thanks.

Uhh..i never said its gonna fall apart. The point of Modding vehicles is to make them better. My stock intake was perfectly functional/not broken...but i decided to get an aftermarket intake isntead. my intercooler was perfectly functional/not broken but i decided to get an aftermarket one instead...and so on...the motor mount is one of the 1st things you should upgrade in order to keep up with all other mods.

f15ms6 10-06-2013 05:19 PM

oh ok, in that case I will just wait until they break..

jm211 10-06-2013 06:00 PM

Rmm makes car more fun to drive, improves shifting by keeping motor planted.
Besides, a jbr rmm is $110.

Now, imo, diff mounts and pmm, tmm are optional.
However, the rear diff mount is the worst of them besides the rmm.

An AP will work with any aftermarket, you just need to tune for it.

In the case of your intake, pick the stage1 for intake and ic and recalibrate the maf for it. Easy. If you fp cant keep up, gotta drop $350 to keep the car healthy.


Again, your list at the least:
AP
RMM
Internals if they cant keep up. If they can, monitor your pressure.

2007MS6 10-07-2013 10:07 AM

So which is better, JBR or CS RMM or is it a wash?

6Y MAZDA 10-07-2013 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2007MS6 (Post 3669249)
So which is better, JBR or CS RMM or is it a wash?

JBR is dogbone 80 duro. CS is ehh too soft IMO. I prefer the AWR dogbone 88 duro RMM though. And its cheaper than JBR ans CS. If i didn't get my SU RMM for free, i would have an AWR mount.

2007MS6 10-07-2013 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA (Post 3669297)
JBR is dogbone 80 duro. CS is ehh too soft IMO. I prefer the AWR dogbone 88 duro RMM though. And its cheaper than JBR ans CS. If i didn't get my SU RMM for free, i would have an AWR mount.

I'm not going with 88. Too much for a daily IMO. Debating between JBR 80 & AWR 70.

6Y MAZDA 10-07-2013 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2007MS6 (Post 3669369)
I'm not going with 88. Too much for a daily IMO. Debating between JBR 80 & AWR 70.


It's really not as bad as you think. After a few thousand miles of break in, the vibrations settle a lot. Plus you start to not even notice it. I think the SU RMM is 70 duro...i don't feel anything from it, but like i said i want the 88 duro lol. I still get a bit of engine movement with the 70 duro. I'd at least go with 80 duro.

2007MS6 10-07-2013 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA (Post 3669385)
It's really not as bad as you think. After a few thousand miles of break in, the vibrations settle a lot. Plus you start to not even notice it. I think the SU RMM is 70 duro...i don't feel anything from it, but like i said i want the 88 duro lol. I still get a bit of engine movement with the 70 duro. I'd at least go with 80 duro.

Going with the JBR 80 off a forum member used. We'll see how I like it. :)


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