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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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I don't know how many of you with the COBB AP have turned this option on, but I wanted to chime in and give my personal opinion. No Lift to shift is pretty much easymode. I love it and recomend it for everyone!!! Hmm....this makes me want to post a video ^_^
I downloaded the Access Tuner Race software and it was really easy to do. Anyway.....it's a blast. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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I havent set it. I have LC set at 4800rpm. But i havent messed with FFS.
What do you have it set at? I hear FFS should be set around 4600-4800rpm.
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2006 BCM MS6 GT #00584
CP-E 3" Straight Pipe Exhaust. CP-E TMIC. CS SRI/TIP. SU RMM. SU TP. Forge V1 BPV. Cobb AP. RichTuned. Denso ITV22. PTP HPFP Internals. STi S204 Lip. Megan Racing Springs. GenPu MS3 Wheels. VEI Boost Gauge. Blox Shift Knob. VG Shark Fin. 35W 8000K DDM HID lows/3000k fogs. Super White LED Tag Lights, Parking Lights, Interior Lights. SOLD: 2009 Mazda 6i GT. Comet Gray Mica. 6-speed MT. ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Please post a video!
My boy just got an AP for his 2011 WRX with a few get up and go mods and we've been messing with this feature all week...it's amazing. Boy and I thought my bolted up 6s put me back in the seats...pshhh lol. Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
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2004 Mazda 6 Sport V6 MTX-Steel Grey MSDS Headers/Ported Intake Manifolds + 1/2" Spacer/Injen CAI/3.7L OTB/TGNY TB Spacer/Magnaflow CBE/AWR 88 Mounts/Rotora H2 Ceramic Brakes//CF Evo Hood,Grill,Eyelids,Window Visors,Mirror Covers/CAR-LED Tails/35W 5000k HIDs/55W 6000k Integrated Fogs/LED Fogs/1000w Xplōd Amp/Two 800w 12" Xplōd Subs/15% Tints/18x8.5 +50 Kazera "CF" Rims/Hankook Ventus Evo 245/40/18 Future Mods:Powermod Tuner/Custom DoubleDin/BC Coils |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Track Racer
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I have FFS at 5200. If your shifting fast enough that should be the sweet spot.
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07 Liquid Plat Silver W/BNR S3 ~325/340 Pump gas self tune. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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I have mine set around that 5,200 RPM range as well. I'll have to admit I use it often as well. I would do some datalogs when you do it to make sure you are running really lean, and staying lean, when doing these FFS. I know that used to be an issue and gotten somewhat sorted out with the new map revisions but I notice it still happens.
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'06 Mazdaspeed 6|| Cobb SF & AP Stage 1 | RPM Street Springs | SPC Ball Joints | SU Rear MM | SURE Dread | Whiteline RSB |18x8 Enkei EKM3 w/ 225/40 | JBR SSP & SURE Anchors | Rotora Blanks w/ EBC Red Stuff | 6K HID lights/fogs | V2 Pre-amp | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I had no idea people were still using this feature? Seemed to be all the rage back in the day, then it seemed to die down. Figured there were issues with it, not sure. Anyways, ive never tried it out, may have to one day.
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304whp/360tq Vdyno 1.01 CF Cobb AP, Sure 3" Full3 Aeros Intake, Autotech Internals, M2 DP, 3" CP-E Single Exit (w/resonator), 3.25" ETS, PnP'ed IM w/VTCS removed, 1/16"Sure TIG spacer Synapse BPV, AWR 70 Duro RMM, JBR 70 Duro TMM, Denso 1-Step Colder Plugs, TWM Shifter Bushings, SM OCC, Custom Shift Knob, Custom Shifter Weight, SURE Shorcut, H&R Springs, Tenzo DC-6 Wheels
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#7 (permalink) |
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I have mine set at 6200 RPM... I guessing a bit high but when i remember to use it the boost just keep coming...
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Mazda Speed6 2007 - Silver, 20% Tint Work Done - Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, Cobb AP, GFB BPV 82% / BOV 18%, JBR EGR, Pirelli P Zero Nero 225/45-18 (Stock Rims), Battery Relocate (Over Rear Right Tire), OBD2 Bluetooth Running Torque for Android Need to Install - SPC Ball Joints Audio System - 12" Alpine Type R Sub, Alpine PDX 1.1000 Sub Amp, PDX 4.600 Speaker Amp (Factory Deck Re-Wire), 3.5 Audio Jack and Ipod Dock |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Please excuse my ignorance as I don't have an AP, but how exactly does this feature work? I have never power shifted 2nd in this car as it is far too violent, but I have no problem flat footing 3rd and 4th.
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06 WWP GT w/ Nav, production #07217 CP-E CAI, Test Pipe, Hypertech Tune
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
The point is to set the RPM to where you need to be when you shift into the next gear. You dont set the RPM to when you should shift. Set it to 4800rpm. So when you shift (should be shifting at ~5600rpm), while in neutral and your foot hammered to the floor, the engine wont rev to redline and blow your shit, instead the RPM will come down to 4800rpm and stay there until you shift into the next gear.
__________________
2006 BCM MS6 GT #00584
CP-E 3" Straight Pipe Exhaust. CP-E TMIC. CS SRI/TIP. SU RMM. SU TP. Forge V1 BPV. Cobb AP. RichTuned. Denso ITV22. PTP HPFP Internals. STi S204 Lip. Megan Racing Springs. GenPu MS3 Wheels. VEI Boost Gauge. Blox Shift Knob. VG Shark Fin. 35W 8000K DDM HID lows/3000k fogs. Super White LED Tag Lights, Parking Lights, Interior Lights. SOLD: 2009 Mazda 6i GT. Comet Gray Mica. 6-speed MT. ![]() |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 6Y MAZDA For This Useful Post: | GroceryGetter (12-15-2012), micneill (12-15-2012) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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I think people just need to learn how to shift faster. I have never come close to redline while power shiftin in any car. If you do it correctly the RPMs shouldn't really jump much at all. Just pull down on first, then kick the clutch!
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06 WWP GT w/ Nav, production #07217 CP-E CAI, Test Pipe, Hypertech Tune
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