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Old 12-05-2012, 11:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks so much for all the input guys. I'll probably just do the PMM since it's relatively inexpensive and should be easy to do (at least going off what's in my memory and not having the car right in front of me). I'll look into the bearing replacement to see if it's something I can handle in my parking lot on my own.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by prdracing View Post
I'll look into the bearing replacement to see if it's something I can handle in my parking lot on my own.
You'll have to coordinate labor with someone to press the old hub and bearing out and the new one in. Its not something most of us have the tools to do on our own. Contact your local machine shop in advance but YES, you can take them the spindle assembly.

Using dial indicator to the hub flange the spec says it can move no more than 0.05 mm /0.002 inch. That's not something your going to feel with your hands. So if you feel anything radial movement with the tire on and someone can watch the suspension to confirm its NOT ball joints, the bearing needs replaced.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The wheel bearings are very difficult to do on your own without a high-power impact gun, blow torch, ect... my shop barely had my 2 off, as the axles can seize into the hub if you are unlucky.

That said, if you have the tools you can at least try it before going to a shop
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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PMM has failed without the gel pack breaking. If the rod moves like in the video I uploaded, it has failed. I have not heard of a single person who has ha the gel break, even on high HP cars
where is this video. I'm going to buy a new pmm but still like to see it
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Car making disturbing noises

and again here, in the PMM failure thread:
Passenger engine mount fail...
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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OK, I got the Anchor PMM and Timken bearing ordered from RockAuto. The Anchor is part # 9182 if anyone else is looking to replace their's. I just did some online comparison shopping and that is at least $20 cheaper than any other OEM replacement option. It said "only 4 remaining" when I ordered mine, so keep that in mind.

I'm going to have my local performance shop do the bearing. He said he was pretty familiar with the platform and it shouldn't be a problem. They just order Mazda OEM ones (at about $80 each), but I offered to bring in a new Timken one (at $27.79) and he said that was cool. Hopefully I'll be able to get all this done next week.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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thanks oh_yeahms6

I will be ordering the AWR mount soon. I don't want to replace it with another OEM style that will just fail again
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Your gf will enjoy that AWRrrrrrrrrrrrr lol ... it creates significant NVH, so make sure you go with 70 durometer
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah I went with 70 duro for my RMM so I planned on getting 70 for the rest too
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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OK well I have the old mount out of the car and it is definitely blow out. The mounting post can be wiggled around with one finger (sound familiar, oh_yeahMS6?). My question is this: is the new mounting post supposed to be about 1/2" taller? I was thinking my old blown out one had sunken in and that the new one was the correct height. After jacking up the engine to the height it would need to be for the new mount, it looks like it's too high. I thought I read someone having a similar issue with the Anchor mount, but I don't recall what the outcome was and couldn't find it searching for it. I've only got a couple hours of daylight left, so hopefully someone can chime in.
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