Rear door exterior handle removal - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Rear door exterior handle removal

Posting as an addition to Drivers door teardown and Drivers door exterior handle removal

In this post we're gonna remove passenger rear door exterior handle


remove door panel
-remove pull handle trim to expose two phillips screws, one ea top & bottom
- - start at bottom of trim, there is a relief for this purpose
-remove screws




- follow steps from front door tear down to remove perimeter 10mm bolts and 10mm window mount from beneath plastic cap in center of door
- note that for the rear doors you want to tape the window in the fully raised position with painters tape.
- I highly encourage removing the door skin rather just the foam service panel. There's a lot to do to remove the exterior handle, and the extra room and line of sight makes things infinitly easier.
- - Drivers door teardown







- remove latch mechanism by removing three phillips screws. There is no other mechanical connection, and the whole mechanism will be free once the three screws are removed. Remove mechanism from door. Note you now have access to the nut & stud holding the latch side to the door, and easier access the the nut & stud holding the hinge side.










- remove nuts from hinge area and latch area, and lift out black plastic support







- remove studs from both hinge and latch of handle, note the short side goes towards the handle





- remove handle from door, favoring latch side first



Here's one method to repair a loose, rattling handle-

What often happens is the return spring retainer breaks off. It's thin and brittle nylon, and if abused by pulling on the handle of a locked door for example, the nylon will crack then break. This allows the spring to rotate and have extra play, which in turn allows the free play of the handle.

The repair can be accomplished two ways: 1) replacement handle, or 2) repair the damaged handle.

Pic showing the return spring retainer about 90% broken off, the crack is clearly visible


Below are some pics of a repaired handle. A small hole was drilled in the closest area of sufficient strength, and then a screw was used for the spring to catch on. A ghetto repair to be sure.The next version I'm going to try a roll pin instead of a screw I think. Or maybe just get another handle....






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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 11:26 PM
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Confused on your repair.... is the hole for the spring or the screw?

Will go outside and tackle this further once I finish my beer...I couldn't figure it out lol

Why does it only let me hit thanks once?

Last edited by oh_yeams6; 04-27-2012 at 11:29 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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since the nylon or plastic is so brittle, you need to pre-drill for the screw or roll pin to act as a new spring retainer.

Be sure to drill in an area that will be strong enough, and think small- this isn't a very big part!


Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop


HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;

Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
Carbotech XP8's; Racing Brake SS brake & clutch lines

Dynojet SAE corrected 420/395
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 02:06 PM
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So you made two holes? One for the spring to sit in, and another for the screw? I was thinking some epoxy might make the doors happy. Out of the three I have off, all of them have some issue with this exact part, some worse than others-MAZDA FAIL
Is the spring under more tension than normal?


Last edited by oh_yeams6; 04-28-2012 at 02:09 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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fucking normal! Totally normal!

Stress comes at full extension when pulling handle, i.e.: opening the door, or trying to if locked. Perhaps some from letting go & the handle snapping back to the closed or home position.

It's just a very small, or thin part, and brittle.

I found the smallest screw I had with big teeth for a good bite, overall small enough in diameter to be mounted into that thin butt part. It was long, and the only tiny washer I had needed that tiny nut just so it would stay on the screw. Yes, ghetto, but mcgyvered from what I had handy, so I be pleased with the proof of concept

One hole, and that as minimally invasive as possibel. Pre drilled. It's a PITA to fix, but I'm cheap.

I suspect once folks see your pics and read that 3 if not all 4 of yours are like that, and that every handle I've looked at so far are broken or breaking in the same way, there might be a run on the new parts supply to just replace them....

must look up part numbers and some prices and add to topic....


Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop


HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;

Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
Carbotech XP8's; Racing Brake SS brake & clutch lines

Dynojet SAE corrected 420/395
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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OH-
And yes! if you catch them in good enough shape I do think it may well be possible to get decent results from using epoxy or something to reinforce and repair.

Anything- I can't help but think there will be a lot of rattly handles out there before too much longer


Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop


HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;

Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
Carbotech XP8's; Racing Brake SS brake & clutch lines

Dynojet SAE corrected 420/395
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2012, 02:50 PM
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According to the guy at the paint shop, Mazda only sells the handles as a whole unit, and being a Mazdaspeed makes it extra pricey. 100msrp, 80 onlinemazdaparts (painted), of course they don't have my color though lol
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/parts/20...iagram=5440505
Without keyless entry, it is 15-20 each on ebay, which would work for the rear handles, and the front's if you wanted

Actually, maybe you can buy the mechanism?
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...ssembly=310744

Last edited by oh_yeams6; 04-28-2012 at 03:11 PM.
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