Join Date: May 2008
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 498 Post(s)
Thanked 3,040 Times in 1,980 Posts
Groaned at 7 Times in 7 Posts
iTrader: 2 reviews
Damn, she's makin' ya earn it, huh?
Did you install your RMM originally, or did a shop do it?
Am I reading that you're pulling the alternator as well? I found that wasn't needed, but if you're mostly there it will add some room. I just decided the effort to remove the alt. wasn't worth the payoff.
Remember weight of the engine on the jack, no more
- don't lift, but take the weight.
loosen all the RMM bolts a few turns, removing completely just the front main bolt.
- you want some movement to the mount so it's easy to reinstall, and you want the mount to drop out of the way.
Passenger mount is just removing the top bracket- bolt & two nuts I think it was, the lower the jack just an inch or two, not much at all.
- after lowering, you can grab the valve cover & pull towards the front of the car, just enough to let the DP pull up & out. It takes some finess & cussing to find the right spot, but it will lift right out when the stars align just so....
Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop
HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;
Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
Carbotech XP8's; Racing Brake SS brake & clutch lines
Dynojet SAE corrected 420/395