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MAZDASPEED 6 / MPS | noob thread / summary GUIDE for NEW OWNERS

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MAZDASPEED 6 / MAZDA 6 MPS | noob thread / summary GUIDE for NEW OWNERS

MAZDASPEED 6 / MPS | noob thread / summary GUIDE for NEW OWNERS


NOTE: Everything with a color of RED is important, not that all of this is… but if you are lazy and want to skim look for the red stuff..

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for anything done to your car regarding anything below..


ANOTHER NOTE: I am not affiliated with any links or companies, but I do recommend them as I have had good luck with them myself as well as others on this forum.


PURCHASING: Remember you can purchase from retailers directly from their websites, as well as “group buys” resulting in many people buying the same item, getting that item at a lower price, and under the “for sale” section in the forums buying from people with new/used items, and of course anywhere else online like eBay, and at physical stores, if you can find one.




*BEFORE YOU PURCHASE:

CHECK WARRANTY STATUS! (for your powertrain warranty)
Get the VIN # and call Mazda USA to make sure the warranty is still in tact/active (depending on how many miles it has). Cars with branded/black listed warranties are NOT eligible for an extended warranty and have no current warranty.
2006 models have a 50Kmile pt warranty | 2007 models have a 64Kmile pt warranty

How much should I pay?
It really depends on your area, and depends on the ever changing economy, but you might be looking for a FINAL price of somewhere around $14K-16K for a 2006 Sport/GT with 30-60K miles. $15K-18K for a 2007 with 20-50K miles. Any more miles just keeping taking money off. $1000 per 25K miles is about right to a point. For options like a sunroof and navigation, expect to pay even more ($1000+).
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/169952-mazdaspeed6-pricing-thread.html < look at most recent posts



*JUST BOUGHT YOUR MAZDASPEED6/MPS :)

RESOURCES

Forums (****LEARN HOW TO USE THE SEARCH FEATURE!!******):
www.Mazda6club.com < stay in the MS6 area to suite your specific model, good stuff here
(use quotes to search for three letter words. ex: "CAI", "FMM", "CBE", etc... will make life much easier.)
www.Mazdaspeedforums.com < MS3’s and MS6’s here, lots of great useful resources here
***Easier way to search the forums (successfully)***:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/site-su...sier-way-search-forum-if-you-use-firefox.html

Online PDF User manuals
Mazda 6/Mazdaspeed 6 Manuals Online

Online Parts Stores

OEM/Stock parts
RockAuto Auto Parts < best prices for new parts
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market < search index for used parts
Online Mazda Parts <OEM Replacement Mazda Parts

Performance parts
StreetUnit.com - Premier MAZDA/MAZDASPEED SPECIALISTS
Revolution Performance Motorsports! Your source for aftermarket performance parts! - Revolution Performance Motorsports!
Home | Custom Performance Engineering
Mazdaspeedstore.com
CorkSport Mazda Performance - 360-260-CORK

Other
Animation of our engine in motion: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdasp...d-summary-guide-new-owners-5.html#post3297376
And drivetrain dynamics: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdasp...d-summary-guide-new-owners-6.html#post3304937


TIPS/REMINDERS

-Always let your car fully warm up before letting it get into boost (when you feel the turbo kick in). About midway on the temp gauge is where the needle should be, if not wait an extra 5-10min until your oil temp is warm as well (no gauge for this). If it's colder out, wait longer.

-Try and stay out of boost until at least 3000RPM. Read below under "Boost Gauge" to find out more and the reason why.

-If you even need to tow your car: ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU USE A FLATBED, NOT A REGULAR TOW!! The car is AWD and anything other than a flatbed could cause major damage.

Carbon build up thread, good info
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/241011-carbon-build-up-speed-6-3-big-issue.html
*see Oil Catch Can near the bottom of the thread


BASIC MAINTENANCE

Gas
Be sure to run 93/91 grade, whichever is available. Anything less will detune the car resulting in a huge loss of hp/tq.

Oil Changes
To keep oil from seeping past the turbo seals (problem with this car), use 5W-40 in the winter (if it's cold), and 10W-40 in the summer. Synthetic blend is recommended in the manual, but most use Fully Synthetic.
When to change is up to you. Most recommend every 5,000 if using synthetic, 3,000 if using basic oil.

Checking/Changing your fluids
http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-engine-drivetrain/217750-ms6-fluid-notes-diy-pictures.html

How to: Brake Job
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/224563-how-mazdaspeed6-replace-pads-rotors.html

Part #: Cabin Air Filter (every 25K miles)
Part: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/230585-cabin-air-filter-6.html#post3223019
How to: How to Install a Cabin Air Filter in a Mazda Speed 6 | eHow.com

How to: Spark Plugs
http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-engine-drivetrain/196616-how-spark-plug-replacement.html
All the info about different types you'll ever need: http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-engine-drivetrain/242721-ms6-spark-plug-reference-list.html
4 Plugs (4 cyl): NGK Part # 3787 [OEM replacement] $11/ea @ RockAuto.com

How to: Door teardown
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/241130-drivers-door-teardown.html



FIXES

My windows won't go down automatically & I can't control them from the driver's door??!
Happens after the battery is disconnected. Simply roll down EACH window a bit, then back up, holding the button "up" until you hear a couple clicks. ALL SET!

Alignment! You will want to get your alignment checked out ASAP. Mazda's specs have a HUGE range, and are set for a very aggressive stance, which leads to severe uneven tire wear. So if you are looking for more a more even alignment, giving even tire wear...
http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-...ment-spec-not-good-enough-26.html#post3205384
Also, the front camber is not adjustable stock, if you are interested in adjusting you will need to purchase SPC adjustable BallJoints, then follow the specs for "SPC Ball Joints" in the above thread (scroll to beginning) after they are installed.
SPC Camber Adjustable Ball Joint

WOT (wide open throttle) Stutter Fix
If your car is sputtering/stuttering at WOT
http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-...wide-open-throttle-engine-studder-fix-12.html

2006 Clutch pedal adjustment (does not apply to some later 2006’s and ALL 2007’s)
If you notice your clutch petal is hard to press down, or is too annoying to operate, you can do two things:
1. Do a simple, quick adjustment which changes where it engages so it is easier to shift (still the same pressure to press however), or 2. Take it to Mazda and beg them to do the “Clutch TSB”, which means they will change out the entire clutch completely under warranty
Adjustment link: http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-...306-adjusting-clutch-pedal-2.html#post2414564
More info: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mtx-transmission-discussion/150441-howto-clutch-pedal-adjustment.html

Rear differential mounts (two mounts holding the rear diff up listed below)
The stock bushings of the mounts are very weak in stock form. If you plan on driving this car casually, don’t worry about this, but if you like some spirited driving once and a while (actually using that gas pedal), these are highly recommended.

1. Rear diff FRONT mount
Turbine Tech Rear Differential Front Mount: MS6
The mount is weak in stock form if you are going to do any heavy/spirited driving

2a. Rear diff REAR mount bushings: Turbinetech
The bushings in this mount are especially weak in stock form, allowing the diff to move around more than it should.

2b. *or* us a Tie Down Strap (instead of getting mounts, however, this is only a temporary fix)
You can strap it with a tie down strap, just make sure when you do this it is even/centered and not pulled to one side..
This is the "poor man's" fix:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/197808-diff-strapping-101-a-7.html#post2789899

2c. *or* replace the Rear diff REAR mount completely
SU Rear Diff Mount: StreetUnit Differential Brace mazdaspeed 6
CPE Rear Diff Mount: CPE Rear Differential Mount for Mazdaspeed 6 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

Smoking Turbo (smoke is coming out of your exhaust pipe when you are sitting idle for 5-10min+.
You might or might not experience this..
Do an oil change, changing to 5W/10W-40 rather than 30. This is a thicker viscosity preventing the oil to seep past the seals anymore

Find a boost leak
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/219844-how-find-boost-leak.html



HOW-TO's

1. Use the search in the forums.
2. Here is a directory list made up (MS6 specific): Mazdaspeed Forums
and MS3 how to's (mostly similar to our car, the MS3 is much more popular as there are many more on the road): Mazdaspeed Forums



INTERIOR SHOW/MODS :cool:

Adding an auxiliary port for about $10
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/225354-how-3-5mm-stereo-bose-system.html

Fold down rear seats mod SIMPLE & FREE: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/158539-speed-6-rear-seats-do-fold-down-16.html#post3297346
ADVANCED w/ Pull Tabs: http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/158539-speed-6-rear-seats-do-fold-down-17.html#post3302816

Light bulb guide (part #'s) (replace/update all lighting)
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/236748-fog-light-help-2.html#post3275500


All-Weather floor mats (these will fit)
Mazda Mazda6 Floor Mats at Dealerfit.com

194 LED bulbs eBay link (dome lights, door, lic. plate, headlights) buy 10 total
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160531931911&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
(link to pics soon)



EXTERIOR SHOW/MODS :cool:

HID Fog light conversion
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
Go with the 35W, H11 type kit. Color Temp is up to you. It's plug and play
(link to how-to and pics soon)

Black out / tint side markers, brake light, etc. whateva you want
http://forum.mazda6club.com/exterior-modifications/151796-how-tint-rear-taillights-niteshades.html

Front 'towPlate' (places your lic. plate off to the side rather than front)
Rho-plate for Mazda or
MazdaSPEED6 TowPlate? | Custom Performance Engineering

Fix rock chips

How To: Fix rock chips

Front low profile lip (cheap as hell) technique
DIY: Home Depot Lip - 6Crew.com Forum

Replacement HID headlights (also change color temperature if you want)
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
stock color is around 5000K

Tail lights

LED Euro: Mazda6 LED Tail Lights - F4D Lighting
Euro: Mazda Mazda6 Tail Light Kit Clear at Dealerfit.com



MODS/MODDING :eek:
*NOTE: Any type of modding could potentially void your factory Mazda warranty!


PREVENTATIVE MEASURES
You want to make your MS6 last longer...


Boost gauge
Reason you want this is to have the ability to monitor the vacuum and boost being put into your engine.
The conjecture is: you want to try and stay out of boost under 3000RPM in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear, and 3250RPM in 5th gear, and 3500RPM in 6th gear. The car will boost very quickly and easily in all gears, especially at a low RPM in 4-6th gears, so having this installed is helpful to possibly prolonging the life of your engine. Boosting at low RPM's puts much strain on your engine.
Links for a stock look and purchasing resources below:
Mine complete (Vent pod w/ Defi Red Racer gauge): http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3513/3041/33781520011_large.jpg
Defi Red Racer Gauge: Defi Red Racer 52mm Boost Gauge (PSi)
Driver’s side defrost vent pod (this guy makes very high quality custom pods): http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/216065-i-am-making-selling-52-60mm-vent_pods.html

OCC (Oil Catch Can) System
“The oil and unclean vapors that once contaminated the intake tract, are captured buy the catch can. By doing this, cleaner air enters the engine, octane rates are not reduced by oil contaminants, and less detonation occurs”
Complete kit w/ directions and support: Performance Automotive Engineering - OCC KITS MAZDASPEED6

Turbo Timer
What this does is keeps your engine running after you turn the key off, get out, lock up, etc. Especially recommended if you drive it heavy (lots of boosting), then quickly shut it off. Allows the turbo to spool back down while oil is running through it, rather than no oil after a quick shut off. OR YOU CAN JUST SIT IN YOUR CAR FOR 10-30seconds and wait.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-engine-drivetrain/170165-apexi-turbo-timer-installed.html
*For GT models, the doors will not lock automatically, you must "drop window, get out, reach in and manually lock, pull auto-window up, and remove hand."

Scan Tool
Click on the link for more info on this. Basically gives you all the information you will ever need to monitor your car
Dashhawk Scan Tool

Engine build info
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/230164-p3-engine-build-info-please.html#post3215320

Better Suspension (rear)
Whiteline 24mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar for Mazdaspeed 6 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!


POWER MODS
You want to get more power out of your MS6..

*most items under “FIXES” and “CATEGORY1” are recommended before you start POWER modding!
*These are just some basic mods to get you started, research/search when you get to learn the car.


Rear engine mount
This keeps the engine stiffer in the bay during strong shifts. Your shifts will be smoother, but you might feel more vibration during idle and lower RPM’s, as well as when the A/C is turned on.
CPE Wishbone Engine Mount MAZDASPEED 6

Front engine mount
Same as above but for the front of the engine, you will notice even more increased stiffness and smoother/quicker shifts
Turbine Tech Front Motor Mount: MAZDASPEED6

K&N Air Filter (a little less restrictive airflow, possibly a 2-5hp/tq gain) *you can wash this filter, rather than replacing it
K&N 33-2279 $45.99 - Replacement Filters, Replacement Air Filter
Audible noise increase: .5 out of 10

Remove intake resonator (instead of CAI/SRI below)
There is no how-to or thread but will hopefully have one up soon...
*It's basically the lower intake box, get to it by removing your wheel well cover, and it comes off with 3 bolts.
Audible noise increase: 2 out of 10 (can only hear when in boost or very close to boosting)

SRI/CAI (Short Ram intake/Cold Air Intake)
SRI is shorter, as the intake filter sits in your engine bay. Very easy to install.
Cobb SRI: Mazdaspeed 6
Audible noise increase: 6 out of 10

CAI is longer, as the intake filter sits in front of your driver's side tire, sucking in colder air. Keep in mind you might suck up water and potentially hydro-lock your engine, if you are worried about this stick with a SRI.
Xcel™ Cold Air Intake for MazdaSPEED6
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10

*With either intake, you will notice a huge jump in noise from the turbo. You will be able to hear it spool now.
*HP/TQ gains are somewhere around 10-15whp/tq


Intake filter/shield (if above is equipped)
Prevents water for easily getting into your intake, which will get into your engine and possibly hydrolock
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/203131-how-cai-splash-shield.html

Turbo Inlet
Allows better airflow into your turbocharger itself, will make your car a bit louder
CobbTuning.com - MS6 Turbo Inlet Hose
Audible noise increase: 2 out of 10

Exhaust
Magnaflow < the quietest of all, but still louder than stock
MagnaFlow Exhaust Products - For Trucks, Suv's, American Muscle, Diesel, & Sport Compact Vehicles
Audible noise increase: 6 out of 10
CP-E
MazdaSPEED6 3" Cat Back Exhaust
MazdaSPEED6 3" Down-Pipe
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10
GHL
Mazda
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10
ETS
ETS MazdaSpeed 6 Exhaust System MZ6EX001
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10

Piggyback/custom tuning
These tools plug directly into your OBD II port, allowing you to replace your ECU (car’s computer) MAP (data on what to tell the car to do at certain times)
NOTE: Before doing any tuning, consult the mnfcr's required specs (mounts, plugs, TSB's, etc.)
Standback: StandBack™ MazdaSPEED6 < for advanced/intermediate users looking to do custom tuning, some preset tunes available
Access Port: CobbTuning.com - AccessPORT < for intermediate/beginners looking for preset tunes, as well as doing custom tuning later on
HyperTech: Performance is our Passion - Hypertech < for beginners or people who are looking to stay either stock, or use only bolt on's (no custom tuning here)



-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Let me know what you guys might want changed, removed, added, etc. and I’ll update the main post as I can..
 
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1
#40 ·
Thanks for the sticky GreyHost... I was tired of searching for this thread for people, lol.
 
#43 ·
Say Hello To Your Engine

I just came across this animation on another forum, and thought this was a good place to post it :).

 
#44 ·
Blaise, do you realize you left out the SU rear diff mount as well as the CPE diff mount in the OP? I just see a reference to the TT bushings. Unless I'm over-tired here.

One last thing you mention shitty gas robbing you of hp's/tq. It also increases detonation, which is worse imo. I recommend Shell 93 only :D.
 
#45 ·
TiGray makes a note to NEVER EVER EVER run Shell 93......

DF recommends fuel type
DF has the worst fuel problems of any poster, ever.....
Trend?
 
#46 ·
There is a trend here numb nuts... you love to jump to conclusions and you're usually wrong :D. I've seen data backing this up, which is the only reason I mention it. I've read good things about Shell 93 for DI engines, so that's what I run. I get practically zero KR with Shell 93, and the ONLY alert/alarm on the beloved DH is for KR>1. The screen blinks from the normal red to green. It rarely ever blinks.

I was almost out of gas one day, and I filled up at a Sunoco station out of convenience. Well, what do you know? Screen is flashing green a half dozen times a time a day, both at PT and WOT. I couldn't wait until that tank was gone. Once it was, I put my Shell back in, and no more blinking.

I do, however, use the SAME Shell station all the time, and I've read that quality of gas can vary considerably even within a 'brand.' In all fairness, I haven't tried every station, and I wouldn't. I've filled up with Mobile gas a handful of times, but I don't recall if I had my DH with me or not. If I did, and was getting a lot of KR, I'm sure I would have remembered though. Last time, I did not so I can't comment on it either way.

PS. Any brilliant ideas as to the cause of my fuel system problem? Yeah, I didn't think so, but thanks anyways :p.
 
#47 ·
neener-neener-neener

lolz-
DF- If I didbn't poke at you for making an authoritave statement on fuel, somebody else would've. I know there was nooooooo chance that I would miss the opportunity :)

Just so long as you know I'm just poking fun!! If I didn't think you had your shit in a pile I wouldn't poke fun at you- I only screw with those who know better!

Oh, and no, nothing constructive to contribute
 
#48 ·
Lol. No, I know buddy :) ... I've been underslept the past couple of nights, and my sense of humor is still at home in bed, lol. That, and this fuel pressure issue has yet to strike my funny bone. I actually had a dream about it last night, but alas, no solutions came to me.

As for the fuel, yeah I should've known better than to throw that out there, lol. That was just my experience, and Shell works well for me. I was really surprised that the Sunoco gas had so much more KR. I yapped about this elsewhere, and I'm not knocking (har har) Sunoco, just that particular station's gas was inferior to the Shell station I use from what I saw.

As for contributing... am I blind or does the OP not mention the SU and CPE rear diff mount? I thought it did initially, but maybe he removed it? Blaise, what are you doing? Besides grannying your speed6 around like Mr. Magoo :lol:.
 
#50 ·
The Shell, Mobil and Sonoco probably all came out of the same refinery/pipeline.

The only variances are storage and additives.

I have several major distributor's additive treat rates listed in front of me.

Shell has three times the additive in their Mid and Super grades than does the generic/unbranded found at a mom and pop petrol station.

Shell and other branded gasolines develop and use their own additives.

So, take that for what it's worth (not much).

The two greatest factors in how good your gas will be is storage and distribution quality.
 
#57 ·
Buying an MS6. 2006 or 2007?

Hi there,
first of all, that's a great forum I find. I am glad I came across it. I am very close to buying a MS6 and I have been through quite a few threads on this forum but couldn't quite find some answers. May be I didn't look in the right place?

First I am in Calgary, Canada. Anybody from here? Or close to here? I met a Mazda sales person today who just bought himself an MS6. Maybe he will recognize himself on this thread.:)

THere are a few MS6s available in town and the one I am looking at particularly is a 2007 MS6 (GT) with 60,000kms (~37,000miles) on it. Selling for about 22,000$Canadian (about the same in USD as they are mostly on par). However when I went through the paperwork with a sales person (not the one I just mentioned), the VIN# showed that the car came out of production on July 31 2006 and not 2007. It was then sold in Oct 2006.

First, is that normal that a dealership sells a car as a 2007 when it was built in 2006? They told me it was the 2007 model, that's why they are selling it as 2007.

Second, I saw that there were certain issues with power loss on some 2006 MS6s and that there was apparently a recall for MS6s built between a certain period for that issue (I think it was a reflash of the car. Correct me if I am wrong). My question is, since the car is supposedly a 2007 model but built in July 2006, is the recall/reflashing needed (if it hasn't been done)? Or maybe it doesn't concer that particular vehicle since it is a 2007 model even though built in 2006?

Also, most gas stations in calgary I think have Octane 91 and lower. Has anybody (anywhere in Canada or US) consistently used 91 octane or less in their MS6?

I did a test drive today with the car and drove about 60km (37miles) with it half highway half city. The gas needle dropped from just above the 1/4 line to sightly below it. Any feedback on that? I only pushed the car into boost once or twice during the test drive for 2-3 seconds each.

Thanks a lot for your feedback!! Appreciate it.
 
#59 ·
I just bought myself a speed6 about half a year ago! and last week my moonroof and heat just stopped working for some reason:mad: Any of you guys experience that before or know wat could be wrong?
Did you check the fuse/relay?
 
#61 ·
yeah, i looked through most of the fuses and they are ok... dont know what it could be! Ill probably just have to take it to the dealership and have them take a look
There are 2 fuses box!

the main one is in the engine bay and the second one is next to the foot rest in side the car, if you did chack both of them then bring it to the dealer and have them check it out....
 
#63 ·
THere are a few MS6s available in town and the one I am looking at particularly is a 2007 MS6 (GT) with 60,000kms (~37,000miles) on it. Selling for about 22,000$Canadian (about the same in USD as they are mostly on par).
I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba and I just bought my spd 6 with 63000kms for 17000 before taxes. Its also a touring (no nav) It was listed as an 06 however it also has a build date of october 2006. It seems like your dealership is "rounding" up the date and trying to inflate the price. I feel I got an especially good deal but 22 seems kinda high. my two cents!

As for the fuel mileage, Im hoping its the winter that is keeping my numbers down:eek: Im sure there is a fuel mileage thread on here somewhere, should run a search maybe....
 
#64 ·
Regarding the original post...Should I add an aftermarket wastegate as well to the list of preventative measures I need to install? After reading in the drive train section for awhile it seems that erratic boost just never fares well with these blocks!

Read enough threads here and I'm starting to get paranoid about the "frailty" of the speed 6, shoulda bought a 04 svt cobra...:lol: jk
 
#66 ·
Welcome & way to set a good example for a first post! Nice to see folks trying to learn rather than just asking first......

Always nice to have another Speed6 around!
 
#80 ·
trade "up" for a WRX?

I'm buying a new car within a month (my friend at a dealership in town is searching auctions for an MS6 for me), and originally was wanting a WRX. The MS6 seemed like a failry equal car that could be had for less money with less mileage (use 07 WRX local is $21.5 with 89k km. An 06 MS6 is gonna run be between $14-17 with less mileage, and has a much nicer interior).

I'm just concerened, from reading on here, and on the subaru board I frequent, it seems the MS6 may have quite a bit more issues? Why do you see the WRX as an upgrade? (I'm looking at 02-07 wrx's btw, not a big fan of the new body style).

Thanks for your input
 
#68 ·
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#70 ·
that's wayyyy to much for that car. Depending on condition that car should cost more like around 15000 or 16000 at the most. Miles ARE low, but that price makes me want to gag. Check our the pricing thread (link is in main post) go to the last pages.
 
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