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Old 09-23-2009, 01:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what the maximum backup current is for the speed 6 with full GT trim? The tech manual for a generic 6 is only 20mA. I have a feeling with the Advanced key, ECU, radio and alarm that number should be higher. I test mine at 120mA.

1. Verify that the engine switch is at OFF and that the key has been removed.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Measure the back-up current between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable.
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Its higher, thats why my battery is dead. Killed my goodyear platnum at least 10 times from sitting for months and it finially wont take a charge. Plan to go to sears to get a free new one asap...
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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QUOTE (Sleeper6 @ Sep 23 2009, 01:50 AM)
Quote:
Does anyone know what the maximum backup current is for the speed 6 with full GT trim? The tech manual for a generic 6 is only 20mA. I have a feeling with the Advanced key, ECU, radio and alarm that number should be higher. I test mine at 120mA.

1. Verify that the engine switch is at OFF and that the key has been removed.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Measure the back-up current between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable.[/b]
Who cares? Just buy one of these and keep it full charge every time you start it. I have 4 of them to keep all my toys ready to go whenever I am.

http://www.westcobattery.com/downloads/accumate.pdf
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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QUOTE (FORZDA 1 @ Sep 23 2009, 03:33 PM)
Quote:
Who cares? Just buy one of these and keep it full charge every time you start it. I have 4 of them to keep all my toys ready to go whenever I am.

http://www.westcobattery.com/downloads/accumate.pdf[/b]
I have been meaning to ask you what type of charger you use on your cars. I am sick of having to jump the car if I want to take it for a spin. The LS12/0.6 is the one you got for $61.95 shipped?
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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QUOTE (mpsanger6 @ Sep 23 2009, 05:10 PM)
Quote:
I have been meaning to ask you what type of charger you use on your cars. I am sick of having to jump the car if I want to take it for a spin. The LS12/0.6 is the one you got for $61.95 shipped?[/b]
No, I have the Accumate LS6/1.2 Charger(s) for $59.95 shipped. The LS12/0.6 is for smaller batteries at 0.6 amps max current out where the LS6/1.2 is 1.2 amps max current out for larger batteries.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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QUOTE (FORZDA 1 @ Sep 24 2009, 01:05 PM)
Quote:
No, I have the Accumate LS6/1.2 Charger(s) for $59.95 shipped. The LS12/0.6 is for smaller batteries at 0.6 amps max current out where the LS6/1.2 is 1.2 amps max current out for larger batteries.[/b]
k, thanks Joe!
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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QUOTE (mpsanger6 @ Sep 23 2009, 05:10 PM)
Quote:
I have been meaning to ask you what type of charger you use on your cars. I am sick of having to jump the car if I want to take it for a spin. The LS12/0.6 is the one you got for $61.95 shipped?[/b]
You'll burn through starting batteries (normal car batteries) forever if you let them go to deep discharge constantly. At least get something that keeps them close to a full charge. It must have some kind of shutoff, slowly boiling away the acid with even a 1 amp dumb charger will also kill a batt.
If you are a perfectionist and like to have everything you own work 100%, check out this charger/conditioner:

http://www.pulsetech.com/
http://helios.pulsetech.net/cgi/hsrun.exe/...fo?ITNO=100x010

Once in a while, clean the outside of the batt. Road crud gets slightly conductive and slowly drains the charge via short circuit.
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (HiOfficer @ Sep 24 2009, 08:30 PM)
Quote:
You'll burn through starting batteries (normal car batteries) forever if you let them go to deep discharge constantly. At least get something that keeps them close to a full charge. It must have some kind of shutoff, slowly boiling away the acid with even a 1 amp dumb charger will also kill a batt.
If you are a perfectionist and like to have everything you own work 100%, check out this charger/conditioner:

http://www.pulsetech.com/
http://helios.pulsetech.net/cgi/hsrun.exe/...fo?ITNO=100x010

Once in a while, clean the outside of the batt. Road crud gets slightly conductive and slowly drains the charge via short circuit.[/b]
Is this the same even for the Odyssey drycell? Thanks for the info, I'll check em out.
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't drive my car days at a time and my stock battery finally wouldn't hold a charge a couple months ago. I already moved it to the back and didn't think dealer would replace it and I wanted a better one. I don't leave the car off when playing music or anything so I just got a red top 10 year warranty! Lasted about 1.5 weeks without charging with a 180mA draw (not made to be drained..but that was just a vacation)
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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QUOTE (HiOfficer @ Sep 24 2009, 08:30 PM)
Quote:
You'll burn through starting batteries (normal car batteries) forever if you let them go to deep discharge constantly. At least get something that keeps them close to a full charge. It must have some kind of shutoff, slowly boiling away the acid with even a 1 amp dumb charger will also kill a batt.
If you are a perfectionist and like to have everything you own work 100%, check out this charger/conditioner:

http://www.pulsetech.com/
http://helios.pulsetech.net/cgi/hsrun.exe/...fo?ITNO=100x010

Once in a while, clean the outside of the batt. Road crud gets slightly conductive and slowly drains the charge via short circuit.[/b]
A few of my cars (the 2 Miatas, the Speed6, and now the `01 Ford Windstar) may stay parked for months at a time. The charger I mentioned is a long-term automatic charger/maintainer that charges at 1.2 amps constant current until battery voltage is 14.3 VDC, then switches to voltage hold mode until the charge current drops below 200 milliamps. It then switches to a 13.6 max battery voltage and passive monitor mode. If the voltage drops below or current draw exceeds 200 milliamps, the cycle repeats. I'm not going to use something that will damage the battery. My 1998 ZX2 OEM battery lasted until earlier this year (yeah, 10+ years) and my `03 Miata is still on the OEM battery. I've done the research and bought the "best" IMO. At $60 each, they aren't cheap and yet I now have 4 of them... Been using them for a LONG time.
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Yeah, I really like Mazda... ZOOM! freakin' ZOOOOOM!
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