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Old 11-27-2012, 05:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2005 computer issue...

I think that my engine ECM is fried. I have found a exact part(L3G1 18 881E) to match mine, so will it have to be reprogrammed? My local Mazda dealership closed down, and the nearest dealer want return calls.

My 2005 Mazda 6 with only 39k miles will crank fine, but the engine starts to lope when warmed up. Plus, the engine, alt., ATX lights all come on. The engine shifts hard into reverse. I have have tried FOUR different scanners on it, and they all come up with NO-LINK AVAILABLE screen.

Anyone have/had these problems? Thanks for any input...
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Back in the day my car recieved all those lights also the TCS light (car with skid marks) lit up and it shifted hard. I was still able to pull a code but it ended up being the Speed Turbine Sensor. I dont know if that would be your case. What kind of scanners have you tried to use?

If you replace the ECM I am pretty sure you will need to get it reflashed but never having to do it myself i can not 100% sure.
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I would Disconnect the battery and find every connection present and systematically unplug and inspect every one of them. It very likely the sub-systems are unable to communicate with each other just as you are unable to communicate with the main ECM.

You're looking for pins not seated, burned wires, broken wires, corrosion, growth, discoloration of pins (male and female). This includes the ABS brake system as they all talk to each other. IMO you have nothing to loose and everything to gain. Get it some where warm and dry with good lighting so you can see what you're doing. If you find damage report back. If you find corrosion, clean with soap and water. Air dry with hair dryer and apply some dialectric grease to the pins before re-seating them. If any of the pins don't hold spring tension correct it.

NOTE: dialectric grease will not stop corrosion that is already underway.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Adding to above - this includes all connectors in or around the fuse box, in the engine bay, under the dash, and everywhere you can reach with a little disassembly.
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. I have used different versions of a Mattco and a Excelan scanner, all had no link status. A friend of mine(who was a mechanic for years) and I have already checked all the connections that we could fine, and we also checked both fuse boxes. All seemed to check out. We even made sure that the scanner port checked out. But, there is always a possibility that we missed something. I wish cars were as simple as they use to be!

I will probably go back through it again. The car was fine when I parked it one Sunday night, and then the next morning it shifted rough in reverse and then all the lights came on. I had replaced the alt. 3 months before, and also one 6 months before. I don't know if this had anything to do with it or not. This alt. still reads that its properly charging, even though the light is on.

Thanks for the help. I will post again when I find something new. I still am thinking of changing the ECM. Final Impact, do you know if it will have to be reprogrammed?
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilAro2 View Post
Thanks for the info. I have used different versions of a Mattco and a Excelan scanner, all had no link status. A friend of mine(who was a mechanic for years) and I have already checked all the connections that we could fine, and we also checked both fuse boxes. All seemed to check out. We even made sure that the scanner port checked out. But, there is always a possibility that we missed something. I wish cars were as simple as they use to be!

I will probably go back through it again. The car was fine when I parked it one Sunday night, and then the next morning it shifted rough in reverse and then all the lights came on. I had replaced the alt. 3 months before, and also one 6 months before. I don't know if this had anything to do with it or not. This alt. still reads that its properly charging, even though the light is on.

Thanks for the help. I will post again when I find something new. I still am thinking of changing the ECM. Final Impact, do you know if it will have to be reprogrammed?
How many times did it get jumped due to dead batteries? Any chance someone reversed the polarity by accident or something like that? Maybe while you weren't there?

And do you know what part of the Alternator failed? The electronics are the weak link i.e. the rectifier to convert AC to DC and there the voltage regulator which maintains the DC voltage out keeping it under 14.5Volts. . .
MY point - if the regulator failed and the system saw spikes upwards of 15 to 16 volts, that could damage parts. . . So how do the cables look? It seems strange to loose to alternators in such a short time. My Camry has 255,000 on the all of the electronics except the O2 sensors. Nothing has been replaced except the battery! Yoder = Reliable!
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The cables are fine, no corrosion or damage. I believe it was the voltage regulators that went out on the two replacement alt. The original was over 6 years old when it went out, it looked fried inside. I am the only one that ever jumped it, and I know to really watch it.

I thought that was too many alt. myself, but I know people who have bought 3 alt. back-to-back before they got a good one. I bought these all at a local chain(wont say which), so they tested them and replaced them under warranty. I wouldn't doubt that a voltage spike happened on some occasion...
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Finally took my car to the dealership a few weeks ago, said it was the main computer(nearly $1600 fix). They now are saying that the new PCM is working and they are able to communicate with it, but there is THREE other modules that it cant communicate with(Transmission, ABS, Dash/Display modules) and need to be replaced. All total would be $5,000...Holy Crap..... They think the car may have took a lighting strike(never heard of that). With only 39k miles, it MAY be worth the fix if I KNEW that would be it, but it may run to $7000 it that doesn't fix the problems...

Any advice? I already have a guy that will pay the $1600 for the repair then he would part it out. I just don't know if I want to walk away with nothing. Really like this car, but I may have reached my limit.
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