Very Little Heat Even AFTER Thermostat Opens - Page 2 - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 01:35 AM
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Sounds like something may be plugging as hose. You see all the tee's and bs plumbing, drain the fluid, and stick a garden hose up to each part. ** BE VERY CAREFUL AND DO NOT SEAL THE HOSE TIGHT AS IT WILL BURST YOUR SYSTEM **

I suspect something has got in and plugged it somewhere. Now you need to isolate which hose as you know its not the core and the temps are good.

If the CORE has NO air flow the temp in vs temp out will be the same on HIGH FAN.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stompjrkz400 View Post
changed the thermostat, burped teh system, seems to be hotter, i guess ill find out in the morning though
how is it after u replaced the thermo?

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by *** ThE FoRk *** View Post
how is it after u replaced the thermo?
heat is better, but still, after 10 minutes running in drive way, and 15 minute drive, the heat is marginal. if you turn it to fan level 3 or 4 the air blows so fast that it becomes cold,
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 09:38 PM
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-u mite have a really big air pocket inside the heater core.
-most likely gonna have to bring it to someone that has a flushing system so they can push the coolant in n get the air pocket out.

manual or auto climate control?

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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manual climate control
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *** ThE FoRk *** View Post
-u mite have a really big air pocket inside the heater core.
-most likely gonna have to bring it to someone that has a flushing system so they can push the coolant in n get the air pocket out.

manual or auto climate control?
Could accomplish this with a garden hose coupler in the return from the heater core. Not that I want another place to leak but you have nothing to loose.

Can you borrow a PC and Software? You can monitor what the ECM sees the temp at. My point; what is the actual ENGINE TEMP? If its below (WAG) 150 the fuel management is going to be whacked. If its at 180 to 195 you should be able to get heat.

Confirm the following:
- engine is at temp > 170F
- water pump is circulating
- heater hoses not plugged
- heater core not plugged
- heater core AIR FLOW not obstructed
- heater core is circulating water
- heater core in/heater core out temp

So the last item you can get with a simple thermometer, some putty, and some tape. Heck buy two thermometers and move them all about to gather info. Although the CORE may be full of water if the water present from the engine is 100F (how, I don't know) than you know its not getting proper supply/circulation. If however the CORE IN is 165 and the CORE OUT is 165 with the FAN on HIGH than air is NOT moving through the core.

Figure out what your actual engine temp is and we have something to work with. I still vote its plugged up by the engine some where in one of the those Y pipes. Just a guess. I mean, if it has circulation through the core (NOT JUST PRESSURE) the hose will be HOT to the touch just like the hoses to the main radiator core.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 02:27 AM
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Can you confirm 100% visual inspection that the A/C compressor is OFF and is NOT inducing cold air into the mix? Either Remove the A/C fuse or visually make sure the compressor core is not spinning when the engine is running.

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Final Impact View Post
Can you confirm 100% visual inspection that the A/C compressor is OFF and is NOT inducing cold air into the mix? Either Remove the A/C fuse or visually make sure the compressor core is not spinning when the engine is running.

i have no condenser because i haven't purchased one after the accident. compressor is unplugged

all lines have been flushed from every direction, i have flushed the heater core and it was perfectly free flowing

- engine is at temp > 170F Checked, using obd2 elm and laptop

- water pump is circulating, - if you pull a line it blows fluid everywhere,

- heater core not plugged

- heater hoses not plugged heater core has been flushed every direction, and is very free flowing


- heater core AIR FLOW not obstructed <<<< im not sure how i can check this yet, but its something i wanna check out now

- heater core is circulating water, yes

- heater core in/heater core out temp line in is to hot to hold for more than 30 sec. - line out slightly cooler
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