As you know i have the "bolt on" GT2871R turbo on my car. The first time i installed it we cut up the stock oil drain line and used the flanges and some thick fuel line / gator clamps to fabricate one. Had no issues with leaking with it. I recently took off my turbo to have the internal wastegate ported which btw worked out great. We reused the gaskets and tightened the gator clamps but now i am leaking a fair amount of oil from where the oil drain line connects to the turbo I cant really see down there but i stick my hand under there and its obvious thats where it coming from. Im fairly confident its coming from the flange -> turbo connection and not the where the flange connects to the fuel line but i cannot be certain until i remove it.
. I will be getting new gaskets on tuesday to put on and hopefully that will solve the issue.

I had a few questions though. Do the ATP kits made for the MS6 come with the -10 AN oil drain lines similar to the ones use for the MS3 or do they just have you reuse the old one? Is there a better way to fabricate an oil drain line or have one made?

Note: the MS3 -10 AN drain line that ATP supplies with the MS3 "bolt on kit" doesnt work because it gets severly kinked several times when you use it on the speed6 due to transfer case being in the way.

ATP says to reuse the OEM oil line and "tweak" it to fit. They say they don't cut it or anything, just bend it and it works fine. I've yet to install mine, but we'll see... Sounds like yours is just leaking from the remove/install action. You may have a loose bolt or torn gasket that I'm sure you'll find when you get into it. Good luck!

The BEST solution - f'd they didn't include this in their "kit" though...

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?s=&a...t&p=1422859

Sorry to hear about your leak - that was my biggest fear.

Getting everything installed only to find a leak and have to pull it all out again was my worst nitemare. This solution is bulletproof.

When you go to install the turbo again, slip the silicon onto the fitting on the block first since you won't be able to bend the silicon tubing once it's bolted to the the TM. PM me if you need anything - good luck man.

I had ATP make me an oil line. I'll put pics up tonight. it fits just fine. I actually got it in for test fitment and it bolts up just fine. I have not "used" it really cuz my motor has been blown. I opted for the 90* end on this one. On my next oil line I'll be asking for the 45* end. I'll have pics up tonight. The line is for sale as well since i am abandoning the 35R project. The line is brand new.

I'd like to see that.

Did the use braided line?

What did they use on the block side?

I initially tried a 90 (straight down) but the angle was too sharp causing the silicon to kink to the point where it would greatly restrict flow. No good - the 45 is pretty much a straight shot into the block side of the drain tube.

How much did ATP charge you to make it?

How much are you selling yours for?

I believe it was ~ $95 to make the line including their outrageous shipping cost for it. I'll put pics of it up later including one of it bolted up to my block. I just want $75 for it. It's at my house right now and as soon as i get home from here i'll whip out the digital camera. It's a tight fit with the 90* fitting they use on the end of the line. Once i saw it when it got here i was like "no way" but it actually fits.

Here ya go. Sorry if they look bad it was raining outside and I had no flashlight lol. I am including this in my sale of my 35R.

As sexy as this looks, it's not going to work.

There isn't enough clearance at the bottom of the turbo for the 90 and the braided fitting to fit, and then make a hard 45 to the passenger side.

I tried using a 90 with a slip on silicone tube and it didn't fit - it's just simply too tight and the tubing kinked. With this setup, it will be even lower hitting the xfer case - in fact, I doubt you'll even be able to get the turbo mounted onto the TM with this setup.

Prove me wrong - keep in mind, I have nothing to sell or gain by posting this; just sharing my experiences.

that's the MS3 braided drain line
it will NOT work
prove me wrong as well but sbspeed is correct, just don't have enough space between the transfer case and the block for that flange and 90 degree fitting otherwise I would have used one.

there should be a braided drain that ATP offers for the MS6 but I didn't find it to be a big deal modding the OEM hard line and adding a piece of hi-temp silicone 5/8" hose
not a drip since the install in April

I'll take pics of my line when the turbo is removed for the ewg install next week

all i have to do is insert the bolts and it is installed. It is lined up in those pictures. I can do that when I get home tonight if you'd like. The gasket will be in there as well. I will also show you how the stock gasket to the block lines up perfectly with those fittings.

Pics will be up tonight.

Ok i got my new gaskets from Mazda. I found out why im leaking too. The block side and turbo side use different gaskets. When i reinstalled the drain line this time they got switched. The block side uses a bigger gasket than the turbo side. So that why the turbo side was leaking. Now i shouldnt have any problems using the mazda turbo side gasket with the mazda flange on the ATP turbo will i? because before i was using the gasket ATP gave me

It's the turbo side I'm referring to. That line is WAAAAY too long and you'll never get the turbo mounted since the 90 and the braided hose will be pointing straight down at the xfer case. Look at the length of that line - you have it at the valve cover line.The oil drain is about 4-5" lower than that spot. Ain't gonna happen my friend - although the 90 going into the block looks like it should work OK.




Stock flanges with stock gaskets - you should be fine. I used the ATP on the turbo flange and the block flange but the ATP gaskets were larger than stock and didn't block either. Good luck - don't make this a 3rd times a charm project!

So you initially cut the original portion that fit onto the block correct? And then just put the tubing over it and clamped it?

I'm thinking maybe I can buy the silicon tubing, and just put this on when I re-install the stock turbo?

You didn't happen to take any pictures of this did you?

Yes he cut his stock oil line and reused this block side portion of it and enough of the metal tubing to securely slip the hose over it.

turbos coming in the mail as we speak... boy am i gunna need some help on the install...

Yup - not much too it. Take a pipe cutter and cut the lower end as close as you can to the accordian section. You'll end up with about a piece about 1.5" long that you bolt back to the block.

The tubing was about 4-5" long and the only gotcha is that you HAVE TO slip the tube on the block side before anything else. If you bolt the turbo to the tm first, you'll never get the tube on - it's just too short to be able to bend the tube that much. Trust me on this one - I learned that the hard way.

There is a link to some pics earlier in this thread.