DIY: Mazdaspeed6 Replace Pads and Rotors

[JDspeed6]

Good to hear, really was trying to avoid bleeding the brakes if possible.

Tig, whats your thoughts on the Centric Cryogenic blank rotors Vs the Centric blank non-cryo treated rotors? I am leaning towards the less expensive non-cryo but don't want something inferior to at least OE.

[TiGraySpeed6]

To me, it's totally "Meh....., whatever"

I don't autocross or track day my car, just aggressive street driving. I love my brakes, but I'll get two sets of pads on one set of slotted rotors before replacing, over 100K miles.

Cryo makes em more durable, but I can spend that extra ~$50ish on something else...

[JDspeed6]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6

To me, it's totally "Meh....., whatever"

I don't autocross or track day my car, just aggressive street driving. I love my brakes, but I'll get two sets of pads on one set of slotted rotors before replacing, over 100K miles.

Cryo makes em more durable, but I can spend that extra ~$50ish on something else...

I have very similar driving habits and think I'll just stick to spending that $50 elsewhere!

On my previous car (350Z) I was getting roughly the same amount of mileage on my slotted rotors w/ Hawk HPS pads.

Anyway, thanks!

[JDspeed6]

One last question...any specific DOT 3 or 4?

[TiGraySpeed6]

If your just topping off, any good DOT4 works. Prestone is fine if you want a name to look for.

If you're flushing with fresh, I'm a huge fan of SuperBlue and it's Amber twin simply because the color change makes flushing soooo easy.

And, for the record, if you've never flushed your fluid, you've timed out & it really needs to be done!

[Final Impact]

Originally Posted by JDspeed6

Good to hear, really was trying to avoid bleeding the brakes if possible.

Tig, whats your thoughts on the Centric Cryogenic blank rotors Vs the Centric blank non-cryo treated rotors? I am leaning towards the less expensive non-cryo but don't want something inferior to at least OE.

Why would you avoid this? The fluid attracts moisture and breaks down over time. Removing the moisture and sediment from the system will greatly extend the life of the components and make a positive peddle. It should be done every two years or during pad changes as you have to press the pucks back in anyway and its a bad idea to force all the crap back into the master cylinder.

[JDspeed6]

I am being lazy about it because of my work enviroment, very cold outside! But your both right, I need to do it and beings I'm replacing my brakes and rotors no better time to do it then now.

Excuse my ignorance but will I have to bleed all four brakes, there is not a seperate resevoir for front and back right? Reason I ask is I'm only trying to replace the front at this time and having all 4 tires off the car isn't likely, don't have 4 jack stands or a lift.

[TiGraySpeed6]

While a simple bleed can be done on just the corners serviced if needed, bleeding, or flushing, is ideally recommended to touch 5 points- don't forget the clutch which shares the common master cylinder & fluid with the brakes.

Again, considering the age of your fluid I'd encourage flushing the entire system with fresh. Using something like a Motive Power Bleeder makes it an easy fast painless one person job.

[JDspeed6]

Ahh, forgot about the clutch fluid too. I just decided I'm ordering everything and bringing it to my mechanic to do, don't feel like tackling this one right now. I can't wait to sell my home and get one with a huge garage!

BTW, will 4 bottles of brake fluid be enough for a complete swap?

Thanks again TiGray, your the man!

[TiGraySpeed6]

It's never taken me more than a liter, but not everybody is so lucky
With 4 it's possible one bottle won't even be opened, but sure is a PITA to run out 99% of the way through, just ask @IHeartGroceries;