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post #71 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 01:31 PM
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Good to hear, really was trying to avoid bleeding the brakes if possible.

Tig, whats your thoughts on the Centric Cryogenic blank rotors Vs the Centric blank non-cryo treated rotors? I am leaning towards the less expensive non-cryo but don't want something inferior to at least OE.

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post #72 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 01:48 PM
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To me, it's totally "Meh....., whatever"

I don't autocross or track day my car, just aggressive street driving. I love my brakes, but I'll get two sets of pads on one set of slotted rotors before replacing, over 100K miles.

Cryo makes em more durable, but I can spend that extra ~$50ish on something else...


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HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;

Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
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post #73 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
To me, it's totally "Meh....., whatever"

I don't autocross or track day my car, just aggressive street driving. I love my brakes, but I'll get two sets of pads on one set of slotted rotors before replacing, over 100K miles.

Cryo makes em more durable, but I can spend that extra ~$50ish on something else...
I have very similar driving habits and think I'll just stick to spending that $50 elsewhere!

On my previous car (350Z) I was getting roughly the same amount of mileage on my slotted rotors w/ Hawk HPS pads.

Anyway, thanks!

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post #74 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 02:56 PM
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One last question...any specific DOT 3 or 4?

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post #75 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 03:27 PM
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If your just topping off, any good DOT4 works. Prestone is fine if you want a name to look for.

If you're flushing with fresh, I'm a huge fan of SuperBlue and it's Amber twin simply because the color change makes flushing soooo easy.

And, for the record, if you've never flushed your fluid, you've timed out & it really needs to be done!


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HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
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post #76 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDspeed6 View Post
Good to hear, really was trying to avoid bleeding the brakes if possible.

Tig, whats your thoughts on the Centric Cryogenic blank rotors Vs the Centric blank non-cryo treated rotors? I am leaning towards the less expensive non-cryo but don't want something inferior to at least OE.
Why would you avoid this? The fluid attracts moisture and breaks down over time. Removing the moisture and sediment from the system will greatly extend the life of the components and make a positive peddle. It should be done every two years or during pad changes as you have to press the pucks back in anyway and its a bad idea to force all the crap back into the master cylinder.

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post #77 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 11:22 AM
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I am being lazy about it because of my work enviroment, very cold outside! But your both right, I need to do it and beings I'm replacing my brakes and rotors no better time to do it then now.

Excuse my ignorance but will I have to bleed all four brakes, there is not a seperate resevoir for front and back right? Reason I ask is I'm only trying to replace the front at this time and having all 4 tires off the car isn't likely, don't have 4 jack stands or a lift.

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Last edited by JDspeed6; 01-04-2013 at 11:41 AM.
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post #78 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 12:14 PM
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While a simple bleed can be done on just the corners serviced if needed, bleeding, or flushing, is ideally recommended to touch 5 points- don't forget the clutch which shares the common master cylinder & fluid with the brakes.

Again, considering the age of your fluid I'd encourage flushing the entire system with fresh. Using something like a Motive Power Bleeder makes it an easy fast painless one person job.


Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop


HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;

Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
Carbotech XP8's; Racing Brake SS brake & clutch lines

Dynojet SAE corrected 420/395
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post #79 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 01:30 PM
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Ahh, forgot about the clutch fluid too. I just decided I'm ordering everything and bringing it to my mechanic to do, don't feel like tackling this one right now. I can't wait to sell my home and get one with a huge garage!

BTW, will 4 bottles of brake fluid be enough for a complete swap?

Thanks again TiGray, your the man!

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post #80 of 98 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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It's never taken me more than a liter, but not everybody is so lucky
With 4 it's possible one bottle won't even be opened, but sure is a PITA to run out 99% of the way through, just ask @IHeartGroceries;


Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop


HTP 3.5"; BNRs3v1; MAC EBCS; CXR fmic; 3 BAR; GFB Respons; VTCS Delete; JBR TIG;
XS Power ExMani; M2 DP; Custom Magnaflow exhaust; Luk Clutch & Fidanza FW;
KMD; CPE SafeSeals; MD OCC; K2 & JBR EGR Delete;

Bilstein & Mazdaspeed springs; SPC's; WL RSB; Steeda F&R Adj End Links;
CPe xFlex RMM; Corksport TMM Inserts; Dread & Jugg diff mounts; EBC Yellow's &
Carbotech XP8's; Racing Brake SS brake & clutch lines

Dynojet SAE corrected 420/395
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