Help with overheating problem - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

mK 6 · 09-28-2011, 04:30 AM

I have a 04 v6 and have been having a overheating problem with my car. The problem started off with a leaking radiator which was replaced and the car drove fine for a month and then the thermostat went out becuase the pipes after the thermostat were cold and before it were hot. I replaced the thermostat but it has still been overheating for while now. I can drive the car for up to 15mins on the freeway before the engine temp gauge starts to read higher than 220f and it starts to slowly climb to 240f or even higher if i keep driving. If i keep the speed 55mph or below I can control the temperature and it runs hot but does not overheat. The water temp gauge will also start to climb slowly and if i keep driving at highway speeds the water overheats and starts to boil if the weather is hot or i drive at 75mph or higher. I can drive for much much longer in the city and it takes a very very long time for the water temp gauge to move past the middle mark. This is a weird problem and the faster i drive the car the faster it overheats but if i drive less than 50mph it doesnt overheat and takes forever doing it. I do lose water/coolant and have to replace every 100 miles of driving but i do not smell coolant in the oil or have any smoke. Please help thanks.

track6 · 09-28-2011, 04:50 AM

Can you tell if the radiator fan is coming on?

mK 6 · 09-28-2011, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by track6

Can you tell if the radiator fan is coming on?

yes the fans do come on and they stay on at full.

BlackCherry06 · 09-28-2011, 10:06 AM

Since you've changed the thermostat, I suspect a blockage in the radiator. This happened to a friend's car, and after 2 thermostats, we finally took it somewhere and it turned out to have a collapsed radiator core.

mK 6 · 09-28-2011, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackCherry06

Since you've changed the thermostat, I suspect a blockage in the radiator. This happened to a friend's car, and after 2 thermostats, we finally took it somewhere and it turned out to have a collapsed radiator core.

I been thinking that coolant just isnt circlelating right but didnt know from where its being blocked. Did you guys replace the radiator? How can you check if the radiator is being blocked yourself anyone?

BlackCherry06 · 09-28-2011, 03:32 PM

The dealership removed the radiator, sent it out, and the radiator shop couldn't get but a trickle of water to pass through it. It went into the dumpster and they ordered him a new one.

Remove both hoses and run a garden hose full-blast into the top and see what comes out the bottom. There shouldn't be much, if any resistance.

mK 6 · 09-29-2011, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackCherry06

The dealership removed the radiator, sent it out, and the radiator shop couldn't get but a trickle of water to pass through it. It went into the dumpster and they ordered him a new one.

Remove both hoses and run a garden hose full-blast into the top and see what comes out the bottom. There shouldn't be much, if any resistance.

I'll give that a shot. thanks

track6 · 09-29-2011, 11:10 AM

Yeah, that was the next thought. It would not be the first time a radiator clogged enough to cause an issue. But it seems odd that it will be fine at lower speed in the city. City driving should be worse for over heating.
The fact that you are losing coolant is not good. If the radiator checks out, you could try a pressure check of the system. See if any obvious leaks show up. Does it seem to run just fine? I suppose it could be a head gasket leak into the cylinder. I know you don't want to hear that...

mK 6 · 09-29-2011, 05:53 PM

I got under the car and i can see the radiator being soaked in water/coolant on the bottom. When the cars parked it leaves a football sized puddle on the ground but the radiator itself is covered with coolant. I need to order a new radiator any advice from where I should do that?

track6 · 10-01-2011, 08:42 PM

Any of the usual suspects should be fine. Unless you have the coin to get it from Mazda, they are all more or less the same. An OEM replacement should run around $100 before shipping.

09-28-2011, 04:30 AM	#1 (permalink)
mK 6 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Jose,ca Posts: 344 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 0 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	Help with overheating problem I have a 04 v6 and have been having a overheating problem with my car. The problem started off with a leaking radiator which was replaced and the car drove fine for a month and then the thermostat went out becuase the pipes after the thermostat were cold and before it were hot. I replaced the thermostat but it has still been overheating for while now. I can drive the car for up to 15mins on the freeway before the engine temp gauge starts to read higher than 220f and it starts to slowly climb to 240f or even higher if i keep driving. If i keep the speed 55mph or below I can control the temperature and it runs hot but does not overheat. The water temp gauge will also start to climb slowly and if i keep driving at highway speeds the water overheats and starts to boil if the weather is hot or i drive at 75mph or higher. I can drive for much much longer in the city and it takes a very very long time for the water temp gauge to move past the middle mark. This is a weird problem and the faster i drive the car the faster it overheats but if i drive less than 50mph it doesnt overheat and takes forever doing it. I do lose water/coolant and have to replace every 100 miles of driving but i do not smell coolant in the oil or have any smoke. Please help thanks. __________________ 04 mazda6--- Eibach springsfront & rear RB sway barsCP-E yellow engine mountInjen exhaust/kartboy hangers black tail lights19'' hyper black motegi racing rims/summer tires8000k hid xenontriple Lotek gauge poddefi oil temp gauge/defi oil pressure guage/defi tranny temp gaugeHPS brake pads & RBF brake fliud 91 Mr2--- turbo swapct20b turbo3'' exhaust3'' Downpipek&n intake*

09-28-2011, 10:06 AM	#4 (permalink)
BlackCherry06 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 1,241 Thanks: 0 Thanked 23 Times in 22 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 0 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	Since you've changed the thermostat, I suspect a blockage in the radiator. This happened to a friend's car, and after 2 thermostats, we finally took it somewhere and it turned out to have a collapsed radiator core. __________________ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___

09-28-2011, 03:32 PM	#6 (permalink)
BlackCherry06 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 1,241 Thanks: 0 Thanked 23 Times in 22 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 0 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	The dealership removed the radiator, sent it out, and the radiator shop couldn't get but a trickle of water to pass through it. It went into the dumpster and they ordered him a new one. Remove both hoses and run a garden hose full-blast into the top and see what comes out the bottom. There shouldn't be much, if any resistance. __________________ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___

09-29-2011, 05:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
mK 6 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Jose,ca Posts: 344 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 0 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	I got under the car and i can see the radiator being soaked in water/coolant on the bottom. When the cars parked it leaves a football sized puddle on the ground but the radiator itself is covered with coolant. I need to order a new radiator any advice from where I should do that? __________________ 04 mazda6--- Eibach springsfront & rear RB sway barsCP-E yellow engine mountInjen exhaust/kartboy hangers black tail lights19'' hyper black motegi racing rims/summer tires8000k hid xenontriple Lotek gauge poddefi oil temp gauge/defi oil pressure guage/defi tranny temp gaugeHPS brake pads & RBF brake fliud 91 Mr2--- turbo swapct20b turbo3'' exhaust3'' Downpipek&n intake*

09-28-2011, 04:50 AM	#2 (permalink)
track6 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lancaster County, PA Posts: 65 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 8 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	Can you tell if the radiator fan is coming on?

09-29-2011, 11:10 AM	#8 (permalink)
track6 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lancaster County, PA Posts: 65 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 8 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	Yeah, that was the next thought. It would not be the first time a radiator clogged enough to cause an issue. But it seems odd that it will be fine at lower speed in the city. City driving should be worse for over heating. The fact that you are losing coolant is not good. If the radiator checks out, you could try a pressure check of the system. See if any obvious leaks show up. Does it seem to run just fine? I suppose it could be a head gasket leak into the cylinder. I know you don't want to hear that...

10-01-2011, 08:42 PM	#10 (permalink)
track6 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lancaster County, PA Posts: 65 Thanks: 0 Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts Groans: 0 Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Quoted: 8 Post(s) iTrader: 0 reviews	Any of the usual suspects should be fine. Unless you have the coin to get it from Mazda, they are all more or less the same. An OEM replacement should run around $100 before shipping.

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