I decided to make a separate thread specifically about these new non-HID “plug and play” aftermarket headlights. I’ve had these in hand for a couple of weeks now but just this past weekend got time to mess with them. To clarify, these are the non-HID versions of the "Eagle Eyes" lights which use H3 and H7 bulbs, available on eBay for right around $300 shipped. Add an H7 HID kit (I went with a 6000k Xentec kit) to these for your lowbeams and you’re looking at $330 or so total, compared to $500-$600 of the other style headlight with HID stuff built in.
There’s a huge thread in this same sub-forum on those more expensive lights, but again this is specifically for the non-HID “plug and play” version. The eBay listing shows to be manufacturer part number MZ290-B1WPA. Here’s a link. There's another seller who has/had them for a little cheaper but I can't find it at the moment:
Eagle Eyes Black Headlights (Halogen) w/ LED Tube & Signal for 2014-2015 Mazda 6 | eBay
For starters - these lights ARE plug and play for the Sport and presumably (?) the Touring model. My car is a 2014 Sport model with manual transmission. I'm not sure if the Touring model has the fancy factory headlights but if not then these should be plug and play for the Touring as well. So that is the good news.
The bad news - I was afraid these wouldn't operate how I wanted them to, and unfortunately my suspicion was right. I wanted the LED halo rings to be on anytime ignition is "on". Unfortunately, the LED's are only on when you turn your corner (aka parking) lights and/or headlights on via the steering wheel stalk. So if you want these LED rings to light up during the day, you'd have to drive around with your corner lights and/or headlights on all day. Worst of all, the headlights are sealed up and there is no separate external LED power wire.
Here are the lights plugged in as they came and car running (e-brake off). As you can see, all you get is the annoying dim DRL and no LED halo action:
Car running with corner lights turned on:
Like I said, all the LED wiring is internally sealed unfortunately. I originally tried to poke/prod/investigate through the corner light plug/socket but much to my dismay this plug/socket was not removable. It twists as if it's unlocking but then won't pull out. I couldn't even see all the wiring and so in the spirit of guinea-pig-ness and to make sure I could see what all exactly was going on - I cut out the underside of the box. This allowed me to see all the wiring in its entirety and to be able to test things on both sides of the harness plugs:
Originally I was planning to just power the LED rings themselves with switched 12V direct. See the little unplugged black connector in the pic above - that's the lead to the LED halo rings. The second LED ring is daisy-chained off the first one with a 3-wire connector. All the LED leads are first run through a series of drop down resistors or something which you can see attached to the "lid" that is pulled back in the picture above. Because of this, I decided I better not send the LED's 12V direct. The green/white wire is the lead wire for the LED rings. It's green/white on both headlights. I decided to send my 12V to this wire directly.
Turns out the little boxes are timers of some sort for the turn signals. Leave the box unplugged and your turn signals all blink really fast. Plug the boxes in and they blink normally. Here's the box:
I also removed the DRL relay and added the jumper wire as discussed in the other headlight thread. If you don’t do the jumper wire, you’ll only have one working high beam. As you can see I'm also using the add-a-fuse at Audio 2 for my 12V switched source:
Do both the jumper wire/DRL relay removal and LED wiring mod together with these headlights and you've got always-on LED halo rings, no dumb looking DRL's, and still working high beams. This is with car running and headlights turned off:
It turns out the corner bulb connector part IS removable - you just have to pull really darn hard (after twisting first, of course). My brother discovered this quickly when he stopped by.
As for my cut-up headlight, do not fear. It sealed right back up with two part plastic weld:
Lastly, I’m combining these headlights with some LED fog light brow rings that finally came in from China. My headlight LED rings and fog light LED brows come on anytime the ignition is “on” or car running.
They look a little blue-ish in this first picture due to the way my phone focused but right below it is a better picture that I manually dimmed prior to taking the picture that gives a more accurate depiction of the color – pure white:
This should be obvious, but anything you choose to do to your own car based on reading a post from a stranger on the internet is your responsibility, not mine - me being said stranger of course.
Like I said above, the green/white wire internally is your wire of choice to power the LED rings and it is green/white on both headlights. Since I’m sure nobody wants to have to tap into the internal side of that connector – if you merely tap into the brown wire going into the corner light connector with switched 12V you will achieve always-on LED rings. Do not sever the brown wire, just tap into it.
You could probably even just run your tapped wire straight to the DRL wire on the headlight harness rather than a separate switched 12V source. This way your LED rings would just come on anytime your DRL’s are activated. I don't care for the DRL's so I didn't do it or try it this way.