New, cheaper Eagle Eyes aftermarket headlights installed - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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New, cheaper Eagle Eyes aftermarket headlights installed

I decided to make a separate thread specifically about these new non-HID “plug and play” aftermarket headlights. I’ve had these in hand for a couple of weeks now but just this past weekend got time to mess with them. To clarify, these are the non-HID versions of the "Eagle Eyes" lights which use H3 and H7 bulbs, available on eBay for right around $300 shipped. Add an H7 HID kit (I went with a 6000k Xentec kit) to these for your lowbeams and you’re looking at $330 or so total, compared to $500-$600 of the other style headlight with HID stuff built in.

There’s a huge thread in this same sub-forum on those more expensive lights, but again this is specifically for the non-HID “plug and play” version. The eBay listing shows to be manufacturer part number MZ290-B1WPA. Here’s a link. There's another seller who has/had them for a little cheaper but I can't find it at the moment:

Eagle Eyes Black Headlights (Halogen) w/ LED Tube & Signal for 2014-2015 Mazda 6 | eBay

For starters - these lights ARE plug and play for the Sport and presumably (?) the Touring model. My car is a 2014 Sport model with manual transmission. I'm not sure if the Touring model has the fancy factory headlights but if not then these should be plug and play for the Touring as well. So that is the good news.

The bad news - I was afraid these wouldn't operate how I wanted them to, and unfortunately my suspicion was right. I wanted the LED halo rings to be on anytime ignition is "on". Unfortunately, the LED's are only on when you turn your corner (aka parking) lights and/or headlights on via the steering wheel stalk. So if you want these LED rings to light up during the day, you'd have to drive around with your corner lights and/or headlights on all day. Worst of all, the headlights are sealed up and there is no separate external LED power wire.

Here are the lights plugged in as they came and car running (e-brake off). As you can see, all you get is the annoying dim DRL and no LED halo action:



Car running with corner lights turned on:





Like I said, all the LED wiring is internally sealed unfortunately. I originally tried to poke/prod/investigate through the corner light plug/socket but much to my dismay this plug/socket was not removable. It twists as if it's unlocking but then won't pull out. I couldn't even see all the wiring and so in the spirit of guinea-pig-ness and to make sure I could see what all exactly was going on - I cut out the underside of the box. This allowed me to see all the wiring in its entirety and to be able to test things on both sides of the harness plugs:




Originally I was planning to just power the LED rings themselves with switched 12V direct. See the little unplugged black connector in the pic above - that's the lead to the LED halo rings. The second LED ring is daisy-chained off the first one with a 3-wire connector. All the LED leads are first run through a series of drop down resistors or something which you can see attached to the "lid" that is pulled back in the picture above. Because of this, I decided I better not send the LED's 12V direct. The green/white wire is the lead wire for the LED rings. It's green/white on both headlights. I decided to send my 12V to this wire directly.

Turns out the little boxes are timers of some sort for the turn signals. Leave the box unplugged and your turn signals all blink really fast. Plug the boxes in and they blink normally. Here's the box:




I also removed the DRL relay and added the jumper wire as discussed in the other headlight thread. If you don’t do the jumper wire, you’ll only have one working high beam. As you can see I'm also using the add-a-fuse at Audio 2 for my 12V switched source:




Do both the jumper wire/DRL relay removal and LED wiring mod together with these headlights and you've got always-on LED halo rings, no dumb looking DRL's, and still working high beams. This is with car running and headlights turned off:




It turns out the corner bulb connector part IS removable - you just have to pull really darn hard (after twisting first, of course). My brother discovered this quickly when he stopped by.

As for my cut-up headlight, do not fear. It sealed right back up with two part plastic weld:




Lastly, I’m combining these headlights with some LED fog light brow rings that finally came in from China. My headlight LED rings and fog light LED brows come on anytime the ignition is “on” or car running.

They look a little blue-ish in this first picture due to the way my phone focused but right below it is a better picture that I manually dimmed prior to taking the picture that gives a more accurate depiction of the color – pure white:







IN SUMMARY



This should be obvious, but anything you choose to do to your own car based on reading a post from a stranger on the internet is your responsibility, not mine - me being said stranger of course.

Like I said above, the green/white wire internally is your wire of choice to power the LED rings and it is green/white on both headlights. Since I’m sure nobody wants to have to tap into the internal side of that connector – if you merely tap into the brown wire going into the corner light connector with switched 12V you will achieve always-on LED rings. Do not sever the brown wire, just tap into it. You could probably even just run your tapped wire straight to the DRL wire on the headlight harness rather than a separate switched 12V source. This way your LED rings would just come on anytime your DRL’s are activated. I don't care for the DRL's so I didn't do it or try it this way.

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 12:40 PM
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Nice write up. I'm curious I looked through the other headlight thread and didn't see anything on a jumper to get the high beams to work. Can you point me in the right direction or explain how you did that. At night how is the output?

2014 Mazda 6 Touring White

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got the car back together this past weekend and hid all the HID goodies below the headlights. These pictures were taken before the final soldering/heat shrink. I attached the little blinker timer boxes to the frame rails (not installed yet on passenger side in below pics), and you can see on the driver side I also attached the module for the DRL fog lights on the same spot. No idea what the green wire is supposed to be for on the DRL fog light module. The listing didn't show/mention a green wire and it came with no instructions at all. I tested 12V to the green wire and it didn't do anything, so I just hooked up red and black and left the green free. DRL fog brows and fog lights both work as they should with just the red and black. Shrug.








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Nice write up. I'm curious I looked through the other headlight thread and didn't see anything on a jumper to get the high beams to work. Can you point me in the right direction or explain how you did that. At night how is the output?
Night output is exactly like stock with HID's - aka great. These lights have projectors in them, just like stock, so it's really no different or better than stock with an HID bulb in the factory projectors.

About the jumper, I'm nearly positive it's in there somewhere, because that's where I saw it. It's possible I'm mentally merging it with another thread. That thread is so huge I don't really care to read through the whole thing again to find it.

But there's not much to it - just remove the DRL relay and then make a jumper wire which consists of two male spade terminals that plug into the female terminals where the removed relay was. When facing the engine, you want to jumper the middle female terminal of the left side to the outermost female terminal of the right side. Here is an exaggerated shot with just a single piece of wire where you can really make out the terminals. You obviously wouldn't want to leave it this way permanently but I did this just for testing:

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 01:21 PM
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Thank you for the input. Planning on ordering these and wanted to make sure I had everything figured out before tearing apart the front end.

2014 Mazda 6 Touring White

H&R lowering springs, 15% tint all around, 20x9.25 xxr 550 wheels, JBR SRI,
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 06:44 PM
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Those fog light
Brows look great!


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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 09:12 PM
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I couldn't figure out what was bugging me about this set up until I was driving home.

Most "halos" act as DRLs and turn off while the turn signal is activated or when the lights are turned on. Yet, initially, your set would only come on when the parking lights were flipped on.

I just wonder if it's possible the unit was mis-wired?
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 12:53 AM
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Hmm - they slowly growing on me. This maybe my next project :-D
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 02:31 AM
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looks like the perfect plug and play replacement after my factory ones decide to cloud up (they already are starting to cloud up near the top facing areas of the headlight). I wish it used factory H11 though so I don't have to buy a new HID kit

2014 Mazda 6 Touring Liquid Silver
[ OVT 91 octane tune ][ CS Power Series SRI ][ Racing Beat Axleback ][ Morimoto XB35 35w 5000k HID lows ][ LED interior lights and plate lights ][ 3M FX HP Tint ][ Dipped rims and dipped trim ]

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael95350 View Post
I couldn't figure out what was bugging me about this set up until I was driving home.

Most "halos" act as DRLs and turn off while the turn signal is activated or when the lights are turned on. Yet, initially, your set would only come on when the parking lights were flipped on.

I just wonder if it's possible the unit was mis-wired?
I really don't think this was a simply mis-wiring from the manufacturer. I say that because it seems like all these aftermarket headlights similar to this that add LED brow type effects that I've ever encountered over the years have all worked illogically. It's always perplexed me why they are setup like they are - usually only coming on with the parking lights or even the headlights themselves. That's why I went into this expecting it to not work how I would like it to and wasn't surprised when my suspicion was confirmed.

I'd bet money that they will operate the same for anybody else who buys these lights. Thankfully it's an easy mod to make them always-on if anybody else wants that function.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerrycobra View Post
looks like the perfect plug and play replacement after my factory ones decide to cloud up (they already are starting to cloud up near the top facing areas of the headlight). I wish it used factory H11 though so I don't have to buy a new HID kit
It's a shame all these modern plastic lens headlights these days crap out so quickly. Nothing makes a car look more "used" and aged than cloudy headlight lenses. Major pet peeve of mine.

I bought some clear Lamin-X covers for my lights and will be installing them on my new headlights one of these days. They should absorb the sun abuse and keep the plastic housings underneath in great shape. My factory takeoffs are still haze/cloud free thankfully so I'll store those away in the attic or some such and they'll be nice and clear in the future should I decide to put them back on.

Last edited by james92se; 11-22-2016 at 10:00 AM.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:07 AM
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So just to clarify, you can tap into the brown wire without opening the undersite, correct?
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