How to replace/test backup light switch 6s MTX - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Here is my first how-to, so here it goes.

I was having problems where my back-up (reverse) lights were not turning on on my 2004 M6S (6-cylinder) with manual transmission was shifted into reverse. While I am still having problems with this, I took pictures and got details on how to access and remove the switch.

Here are the tools you will need:

* 14mm combination wrench
* 21mm combination wrench
* #2 Phillips Screwdriver
* Continuity tester
* At least 2 differently-colored test leads with alligator clips

Steps:

1. Open hood
2. Unclip 2-wire harness connected to driver-side of the airbox next to the fender.
3. Unclip the MAF sensor on the top of the intake tube (just forward of the battery)
4. Remove the accordion intake tube from the airbox by first loosening the clamp with the screwdriver, then gently removing the accordion from the tube.
5. Remove the air filter and airbox by firmly but carefully pulling up on the airbox. No screws hold it down, but pegs on the bottom of the airbox push through some rubber bushings which hold it in normally. This exposes the top of the transmission
6. Looking back towards the back and slightly to the passenger side, locate the backup switch. It is under the battery and just fore of the starter and the starter bracket as shown below:



7. The switch itself will take a 21mm combination wrench to remove, but you should remove the 14mm bolt just to the left of the switch just to make it easier. I noticed a bad smell after removing the bolt, (no, it wasn't me) and thought that it was probably from the loosened bolt.



8. Before removing the switch, go ahead and unclip the socket from the switch itself:



9. Unless you have a short 21mm socket that will fit, I found the combination wrench (the box side) worked well.

10. Keep the wrench handy as it takes quite a few spins to get it completely off of the transmission and my fingers weren't strong enough to unscrew it by hand only.



11. Inspect the switch itself. The travel of the plunger is only about a 1/4 of an inch. It should spring back automatically when pushed.



12. Also inspect the top of the switch to inspect for breakage or bent pins:



13. Test for continuity when the switch is pushed in by using the test leads (if necessary). If you get continuity, the switch is probably working. Screw the switch back in (finger tighten) and test for continuity when you shift into reverse. You should get continuity when shifted into reverse.

14. Test for resistance. If there is any resistance (anything more than 0 ohms), you may still have a faulty switch. If this is the case, you may have to replace the switch even if you read continuity when the switch is actuated.

15. Since the switch is connected by at least two small harnesses to the main harness, you could try jumping the pins on the side that goes into the car's wiring harness (and have someone step on the brake + clutch, turn the car on and shift into reverse) to see if the lights turn on. If it does, perhaps the problem is in one of the short harnesses mounted to the transmission.

16. Reassembly is as simple as following same steps from step 10 back to 1.

Good luck!
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Old 09-07-2009, 03:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nicely done! Methinks this is sticky worthy. Thanks for the write up!
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Old 11-13-2009, 10:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Great write up. I just replaced my switch and it only took about 15 minutes start to finish. I had to special order the switch though and that took a week and a half to receive it. BTW the part number is AC05-17-640A for those who can't find or get ahold of it any where else.
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Old 02-28-2010, 06:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you ever figure out why you are having this problem? I am in a sticker state and I won't be able to get a sticker if my lights do not work. My car has been trying my patience. All sorts of major and minor problems. I haven't figured out what this one is yet.

Addendum: This is a great write up however a SAE 13/16" wrench fit better on the switch. It sure as hell didn't want to come out of there. I ended up having to remove the bracket above and towards the passenger side also to get a better angle at it. In the end the back up lights worked! Ka ching!

Last edited by Mazda6dude; 03-02-2010 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 04-12-2010, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey Guys,
i just realized that I am having the same issue. thought it was just the bulbs but ruled that out.

Can you tell me if this fix is the same for a 2005 model?
Thanks,
Steve
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I believe an O2 sensor socket will fit.
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi,

What is the Back Up Light switch part number for 2003 Mazda 6, 3.0L v6, petrol model?
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Any idea what to do when the notches on the switch are stripped? I finally found a 21mm combo wrench only to find that the switch won't budge cause it is stripped. Now what?
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Old 06-16-2012, 07:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Resurrecting an old thread here but I just started having this problem on my 1st gen V6.

1. I just spent the last couple hours checking everything I can think of. It's not the switch, it's not the fuse, I checked the continuity of them both.

2. I checked all the wires with an ohmmeter and I've narrowed it down but don't have a wiring diagram so I don't know what else to test.

3. The continuity of the ground is working perfect the whole way, from the bulb to the switch. The power is working from the switch to the fuse box at the driver's seat, but not the rest of the way. I've checked all the fuses in that box and they're all perfect.

Does anybody have a wiring diagram or know if there's another relay or fuse that I need to check?

Thanks for any help!
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by familyman333 View Post
Any idea what to do when the notches on the switch are stripped? I finally found a 21mm combo wrench only to find that the switch won't budge cause it is stripped. Now what?
Yeah, I've got the same issue. Any ideas on how to get this damned switch out so I can replace it or should I take it to my mechanic and let him have a go at it. Any advise would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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