Standback and cold weather?

[mmarfan]

I had taken the standback off temporarily for an oil change. I put it back on at the beginning of this week. The temperature around here has gotten to around 10 degrees F. I do know about the small problem with the one sensor not activating right away and basically you have to wait about 3 to 5 seconds before you crank; this is not the problem. The problem is the car will start, then immediately die. If I try it one to two more times it will normally start, but has a hard time staying on. Basically it sounds like it's misfiring badly. I do not have any adjustments at that low of TPS/RPM range. I don't know if the boost controlling feature is messing the startup sequence up because I do hit fuel cut a lot. I will go in and verify the boost settings to make sure the MAP cutoff is set right, but really all I did was just juice it up to 17PSI.
Is there something I have done wrong? Has anyone else reported similar problems?
I took it back out and put the bypass plug back in and it works properly, no problems at startup at all and no fuel cut.

[smoker6]

Our cars seem to act differently in cold weather. This has been covered before, and it was even suggested that we might have to have two different maps; one for warm temperatures and one for the cold.

[mmarfan]

Yes, it would make sense, but what doesn't is the fact the car is acting strange on startup with the standback in.

[www.cp-e.com]

I had taken the standback off temporarily for an oil change. I put it back on at the beginning of this week. The temperature around here has gotten to around 10 degrees F. I do know about the small problem with the one sensor not activating right away and basically you have to wait about 3 to 5 seconds before you crank; this is not the problem. The problem is the car will start, then immediately die. If I try it one to two more times it will normally start, but has a hard time staying on. Basically it sounds like it's misfiring badly. I do not have any adjustments at that low of TPS/RPM range. I don't know if the boost controlling feature is messing the startup sequence up because I do hit fuel cut a lot. I will go in and verify the boost settings to make sure the MAP cutoff is set right, but really all I did was just juice it up to 17PSI.
Is there something I have done wrong? Has anyone else reported similar problems?
I took it back out and put the bypass plug back in and it works properly, no problems at startup at all and no fuel cut.[/b]

Nope, you probably did nothing wrong. It sounds like maybe the Standback is losing track of the crank wheel for some reason. I'll bring this up to Lou tomorrow to see if he has any suggestions. Worst case scenario, we'll have you run the bypass for now and send us the Standback to check out. A few hours in the freezer for cold weather testing should do the trick

If you don't mind, shoot me an email (jgartenhaus@cp-e.com) and just copy/paste your post in the body of the message. I'll speak with Lou and shoot you back some info tomorrow.

[mmarfan]

Cool, just sent it.

It's funny I was actually thinking about running it cold and checking the voltages here at work. (I work in electronics) But thought it's better to get feedback first. Hope it's and easy solution!

And actually, adding to the above post, when the car starts it will run ok but still has "fuel cut" at more then 15% to 20% throttle. At WOT it runs fine and at more then 50% throttle it's OK as long as it's over 3000RPM. If the computer is loosing the crank position sensor then that would kinda be true the the car would want to shut off.

[StreetUnitMark]

Nope, you probably did nothing wrong. It sounds like maybe the Standback is losing track of the crank wheel for some reason. I'll bring this up to Lou tomorrow to see if he has any suggestions. Worst case scenario, we'll have you run the bypass for now and send us the Standback to check out. A few hours in the freezer for cold weather testing should do the trick

If you don't mind, shoot me an email (jgartenhaus@cp-e.com) and just copy/paste your post in the body of the message. I'll speak with Lou and shoot you back some info tomorrow.[/b]

Jordan, this is the same problem I'm having with the new one you sent me.

This guy took his out, then tried to put it back in and now the car wont start.

I took my old one out back in SEP (when the car broke) and it was still very warm here in FL. Now that its in the 30's and 40's here, when i tried plugging in the new one you sent me, the car would not start or stay running.

Any ideas? from lou or whomever?

thanks , you have been nothing but helpful

[mmarfan]

So you get your's started, but dies just like mine? If you do, does it sound simular to the misfire condition? (just curious)

[StreetUnitMark]

So you get your's started, but dies just like mine? If you do, does it sound simular to the misfire condition? (just curious)[/b]

yea, it will not stay on though. im not sure if the cold weather is the problem. i cant think of anything else. the car wont stay on for even 2 senconds if it does crank. everyone of my attempts the car doesnt start.

[www.cp-e.com]

Cool, just sent it.

It's funny I was actually thinking about running it cold and checking the voltages here at work. (I work in electronics) But thought it's better to get feedback first. Hope it's and easy solution!

And actually, adding to the above post, when the car starts it will run ok but still has "fuel cut" at more then 15% to 20% throttle. At WOT it runs fine and at more then 50% throttle it's OK as long as it's over 3000RPM. If the computer is loosing the crank position sensor then that would kinda be true the the car would want to shut off.[/b]

That's definitely not supposed to happen

Since you work in electronics this would probably be a no-brainer for you, but are you sure your ground is good? I've seen an issue like this when someone's ground connection came loose. So if you can easily peek your head under your dash, you might just give the ground cable a little wiggle to make sure its secure. The Standback is incredibly sensitive to ground connections, which is why it has two. Also, sometimes it can be hard to tell if the molex is seated all the way. You might try yanking the molex, and re-inserting it, and give it a couple good wiggles to make sure it seats all the way down.

Also, when you removed and re-installed the Standback, is there any possibility that the key was in the accessory position? In other words, when you were messing with the Standback's molex connector, could the car's power have been on?

Jordan, this is the same problem I'm having with the new one you sent me.

This guy took his out, then tried to put it back in and now the car wont start.

I took my old one out back in SEP (when the car broke) and it was still very warm here in FL. Now that its in the 30's and 40's here, when i tried plugging in the new one you sent me, the car would not start or stay running.

Any ideas? from lou or whomever?

thanks , you have been nothing but helpful [/b]

Hmm, no ideas, but I'm going to get on this asap with Lou. I'm paging him right now, and just as soon as I have an answer for you guys I'll post it here. Thanks again for being so darn patient with us!!

[www.cp-e.com]

Alright, just got a call back from Lou...

He seems to think that the Standbacks may have been damaged during the installation of the unit. Now, this was Lou's educated guess, so take it for what its worth.

When you plug the Standback into a live circuit, there is an initial power spike which can and does burn out the drivers on the Standback board. In fact, Lou said that there is still a residual charge in the circuit where the Standback is connected, even a few minutes after the key has been turned off! In other words, if your car was running, you shut it off, and immediately installed the Standback, then there is a chance that the drivers were destroyed by a power spike. Luckily this is an easy fix, so if that's the case then we can replace the drivers and then send the unit back to you very quickly. If it isn't the drivers, then at least we can put the unit on our test bench to see what's going on. So go ahead and send the units back when you have a chance and we'll look them over. If you would, please include a little note about the issues you were having. That way we'll know what to look for.

So you guys that have Standbacks: Make absolutely sure that you only install or remove the Standback from the car when the power is off! If you just had the car running and you need to install/remove the Standback, wait about five minutes before you do anything. That will allow time for the residual charge to dissipate. That may or may not be the problem in this case, but I thought that it was worth mentioning for everyone else as well.

If you guys have any questions about sending the units back please let me know.