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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Question 2016 W/Bose - Advice on Audio Upgrade Plan

Hello again everyone! I've finally got around to starting my audio upgrades and would like some advice.

FYI
I have very limited knowledge when it comes to car audio installations and will be relying on shop nearby for some of this.
I have a 2016 Mazda 6 Touring with the Bose package.

I would eventually like to replace all 11 of my terrible speakers but can only afford to manage it in waves. Id like to start by adding in a subwoofer and then later coming in and upgrade half of the speakers and the other half later.

Can I have CarToys install the following combo with my current Stock(Bose) configuration?
JL Audio PPJLA8 12" Enclosed Subwoofer with Amp Package ( I cant put a link here yet)
I assume that the mono amp will power just the subs and hook up to the HU. (This step i'm pretty sure will work fine)

And then later I can swap out the Bose amp with something more powerful and swap out the speakers for something by JBL.

Hows this sound? I guess my real question is whether not the cartoys package can be installed by itself and not need to be messed with later when I replace the speakers and add a new multi channel amp.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 06:04 AM
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I advise against doing it in "waves." Not only will you spend more money overall, but the sound won't be where it should be. Why spread out the upgrades over time, if you're just going to be replacing components (amplifier)?

Talk to your sound shop and see what they recommend. You're going to want to replace all 11 speakers at once, and add a beefy enough amplifier. If you're strapped, the subwoofer can wait until later; you may find that you don't even need it.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Could I use the existing wiring if I decide to swap out all of the speakers?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 09:28 AM
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I second what Zeffer said. I sort of did it in waves. I did the Head Unit first and it was hard to balance the sound especially with the Bose "plastic" subs rattling in the front doors. Then I added a subwoofer, and I still got the rattle coming from the OEM door subs = awful (Couldn't control the bass since I was, at the time, powering the aftermarket sub from the OEM sub signal, so lowering the bass also cut power to the JL sub). I tried building a high-pass filter so I could tone down the OEM subs. It worked but then I would get a series of loud pops everything I would start the car due to capacitors charging.

After all, I decided to rip the whole thing out and install a new amp and new speakers. I talked to the guys at Wooferect.com (I can provide you with a contact) and so I went with Zapco amp and CDT Audio speakers = PERFECT!

I ended up spending more trying to fiddle wth a half-upgraded system.

Let me know if I can help.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 09:34 AM
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No, because the new speakers will ask for more power most likely. You'll need an amplifier to power your new speakers, and then it has to be strong enough to run your sub eventually too. Just talk to your shop and see what they suggest. It's the best way to go about this.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the advice so far! Guess i'll go ahead and do the full speaker/amp replacement then.

Does anyone have a list of speaker sizes for the Bose model? Im doing some initial browsing on crutchfield to get an idea.
@txsv_2 did you put in component speakers with tweeters or just really good coaxial speakers?
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 09:54 AM
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I went with Components on the front and Coax on the rear since I was debating whether to add speakers on the rear deck as well "for clarity". Bottom line with a good quality set on the front all you need is truly a cheaper component or even mid range on the rear doors. With a sub in the trunk, then (what I did) remove the OEM speakers from the rear deck so the sub has some "open" path to the cabin. Although, I used Dynamat Extreme to prevent unwanted rattles from penetrating into the cabin.

Talk to your shop. I agree 100% with @Zeffer. I initially looked into keeping the original cabling, but at the end I didn't want to risk fires. The more power your Amps are outputting the more current they draw. If the cables are not rated to handle the load they will heat up, melting stuff around them or even posing a fire hazard. Mind you that that's the purpose for inline fuses, but... Just FYI. I ended up upgrading all cabling with high-quality lines.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 09:59 AM
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Sorry you also asked about a list of Bose speakers. Check this link for a list and general location of the speakers: https://globalpressroom.bose.com/us-...elease/view/44

Better yet, check this link for actual information about what's installed on the 2014. Need to verify for other model years, but a start ENTERTAINMENT LOCATION INDEX
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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You guys have been fantastic.
@txsv_2 Since you have the Bose model maybe you can clarify something for me. The two front door speakers, Do they currently only output a low frequency essentially acting as subs? And will that affect new speakers that the shop will install in those points?
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Heres what Crutchfield says about my front door speakers.
"Notes:
  • The factory woofer in this location only receives bass frequencies from its amplifier. Replacement speakers will only reproduce bass."
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